Some Q's

[thirdstreettito]

I am really wanting an M1008. If I get one I want to upgrade it.

List.
6" Lift
Beadlocks or offroad wheels
Rear discs
4:10 Posi
Divorced T-case
Offroad bumpers w/ winch front/rear

My questions are:

Who makes offroad bumpers for 80-87's?
How do I lift the 1 1/4 ton and keep the payload?
Anyone got pics of an offroad 80-87 8-lug with offroad wheels?
How much does it cost to divorce the T-case?
What is better? Posi or Locker? What is different?

Please expound on the questions if you can. Thanks in advanced!

[1-tonmudder]

Who makes offroad bumpers for 80-87's?
Offroad design makes some nice ones or we can make you some custoom ones at http://www.tdoffroad.com/?page_id=20

How do I lift the 1 1/4 ton and keep the payload?
I think several companies make kits for the 1-tons.Superlift,Tuff country,Skyjacker.

Anyone got pics of an offroad 80-87 8-lug with offroad wheels?

Here's my M1009


How much does it cost to divorce the T-case?

It will cost quite a bit considering you have a married trans/case.You will have to get a 2wd trans,a DM case and have cutom shafts made.


Does anyone make offroad bumpers for 80-87's?
See above.

What is better? Posi or Locker? What is different?
The M1008 come with a Detroit locker in the rear.For offroad performance they are the best.The only other taction device for them is a Gov-loc(factory LS),ARB locker($$$),Detroit locker,or spool(not for street use).

[thirdstreettito]

Thanks! Would it be cheaper to make my own front bumper? $700+ is a lot of money for welded tubes. What would be the best for the front axle? Do they make a locker for the front? Does anyone else make bumpers for them? What do I need to lift it 6"? Do I have to mess with brake lines/steering/driveshafts/etc?

[special-K]

My questions are:

Who makes offroad bumpers for 80-87's?A:I make my own.Road Armor makes a nice bumper for alot more money.
How do I lift the 1 1/4 ton and keep the payload?A:They are actually 1Ts.You can have a spring shop build your springs to sit 6" above stock and retain capacity.There are HD lifts.These daysmost are designed for flex over weight capacity.
Anyone got pics of an offroad 80-87 8-lug with offroad wheels?A:Check pics above.
How much does it cost to divorce the T-case?A:That will vary depending on parts used.
What is better? Posi or Locker? What is different?A: Depends on purpose.Lockers turn wheels full time.Posis turn wheel with least resistance until more traction is needed.Posis are more road friendly.Lockers are more offroad.I prefer the locker in rear and TruTrac.
A:Yes,you`ll need longer brakelines,e-brake cable,rear driveshaft,possibly front one longer,special steering arm or crossover steering,which is what I`m planning.

You don`t want the 4.56s that come in them?They already have a locker,too.I got lucky and got a rare set with TruTrac up front.By the time you put 35s with 4.56s you come up with right about 4.10s.4.10s with 35s gives you about 3.73s.Not a bad ratio.But,planning doublers I figure you`re looking for lo-low.It would be a good combination having 3.73 fial drive for street,yet way low ratios with the doubler offroad.I doubt you`d ever suer from the bit higher gears.
Actually,that`s what I`m doing in my`71,4.10s.I already have a set I`m using.I`m using an HO52 NoSpin in the rear.Because I have it.prolly do an air-locker in front.I`m planning doubler/twin stick set-up with a 4spd.

[68,69 K20]

Just curious, why would you want to divorce the t-case?

As someone who has had the opportunity of driving, working, beating on a dozen or so of the M1008 and a handful of the M1009 I can say I would rather have the M1009. My current work truck is a M1009 and it's awesome.

As far as the trucks go, my place of employment buys them from gov't surplus so I've seen a lot of the good and the bad with them.
They are kept in stock form, meaning the 6.2 diesel, th400/np208, and the D60 14bolt are left alone.
They are tough on starters and flywheels especially. All kinds of electrical snafu's with the 24 volt set up, always throwing belts, etc.
Had one in the shop last week that the starter, flywheel and a starter relay had to be replaced. Gets expensive after awhile, if you get my drift.
Personally, If I had one and was going to build one, the first thing I would do is ditch the the 6.2 diesel system altogether and put a gas motor in it. A lot less headache down the road replacing parts and trying to diagnose a crappy electrical system. Just my 2 cents..

The good, The D60/14 bolt combo is unbeatable, I don't recall the auto shop here at work ever having to any differential work to any of the trucks ever. Just some brake and seal work here and there and that was it. The th400 and np208 are a good combo too.
Off topic for a sec, I am currently trying to buy the remains of a M1010 ambulance that the auto shop stripped for the motor/trans/tcase, orig 23K mile truck .The body and axles remain and I only want it for the axles to make my 69 K20 a K30. Looks like the one below. Would make a pretty cool work truck, plenty of room for tools that's for sure.

[OldCreek]

You can find a ton of divorced t.c.'s on Pirate 4x4. Such as the divorced Dodge np205.

[special-K]

Oops...I saw divorced and answered doubler.That one has me curious,too.

[thirdstreettito]

Road armor doesn't show it on their site.

What would be the maximum amount of lift I could do without having to change all that stuff?

Does anyone have pictures of a lift 8-lug longbed?

Where would I buy a Locker for the front?

What are some cheap black wheels?

How high would I have to go to fit 35's without rubbing?

[special-K]

I guess you could call Road Armor,they make them.But,they`ll be pricey,too.You should just use your welding skills and make one for way less.That`s what I do.

2" is max w/o effecting steering and brake hoses.4" is max before driveshaft lengthening.

All kinds of pictures are at the top of this page.That`s a pretty broad question.

You don`t want a locker up front unless it`s an air-locker you can disengage and run bias drive in 4wd also.

Steel spokes are cheapest,then D-hole,then round holes.Color doesn`t matter.Try 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers,National Tire Warehouse,ot Tyres International.Also local shops.

6" for 35s.I`ve run`em w/4" on a work truck and been real careful.I only run those offroad on jobsites.No real angles.

[thirdstreettito]

Thanks! What is the average cost to lift it 6" and do the brake lines/e-brake/steering/driveshafts?

[special-K]

IIRC,I spent about $300 with Inline Tube on the brake stuff.
The steering arm is $75-80 and is included in a lift kit.
An all spring lift kit runs around $800.
I pay $100 for a driveshaft lengthened.

Here`s an`84 I had with 4" lift and 35" A/Ts (so no lugs) on 9.75s.It was a 6.2 I put a Banks Stinger kit (turbo) on.I used Superlift springs on front and had a spring shop take care of the rear.I added 2" blocks.Never saw any problems from using blocks.

[74 C-30]

for the rear lift you could also get a DIY or ORD shackle flip with a 2 inch blcok to get you 6 inches and retain the heavy springs

[Prerunner1982]

I am suprise nobody has mentioned either of these sites yet..

www.offroaddesign.com
(bumper, lifts, steering box brace, etc)
www.steelsoldiers.com
(More military vehicle information than you could ever want, alot of CUCVs on here are modified as well.)

Originally Posted by 68,69 K20

Just curious, why would you want to divorce the t-case?

I wondered this as well, perhaps to even out the driveline lengths. If the driveshafts are the same length you can carry one replacement for either front or rear...

Originally Posted by OldCreek

You can find a ton of divorced t.c.'s on Pirate 4x4. Such as the divorced Dodge np205.

You could also use a T-221 that came in the pre 67 Chevy/GMC 4wds. Though they are getting harder to find and find parts for.

[thirdstreettito]

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

I am suprise nobody has mentioned either of these sites yet..

www.offroaddesign.com
(bumper, lifts, steering box brace, etc)
www.steelsoldiers.com
(More military vehicle information than you could ever want, alot of CUCVs on here are modified as well.)

Yup, I'm a member of SS and I've already email ORD.

[thirdstreettito]

Thanks. This all really helps. I've been looking at the Sidewinder kit for about 4 years drooling and waiting for an M1008.

Now all the plans are as follows.

Paint: Winter camo with military letters and such on it.

Drivetrain: Banks Sidewinder kit w/ custom 4" exhaust.

Wheels/tires: 16x10 w/ 33" Dune Grapplers

Suspension/Brakes: 6" Lift with upgraded front and rear discs.

Interior: Reupholstered bench seat. Gauges. Stereo(not too big)

Bumpers: Front and rear tube winch bumpers w/ 10,000lbs Winch in each.

Doodads: Hidden Gooseneck, Class 5 Hitch, A flatbed someday, CB Radio with small antenna, dual spotlights.

As all plans go they will change, but that is basically how it is now.

[74 C-30]

Doodads: Hidden Gooseneck

how exactly are you gonna pull a gooseneck with 6 inches of lift and 33s? the truck is gonna sit pretty high to hook onto a trailer
and why so much lift for the 33s? you could fit them without a lift
not trying to criticize, just wondering

[thirdstreettito]

Originally Posted by 74 C-30

how exactly are you gonna pull a gooseneck with 6 inches of lift and 33s? the truck is gonna sit pretty high to hook onto a trailer
and why so much lift for the 33s? you could fit them without a lift
not trying to criticize, just wondering

Good point about the lift. Oh well guess I'll have to buy ANOTHER truck! Not like I'd complain! I just did some research, with a 4" lift I can fit 42" IROCs. So I'll probably do 6: with 42" IROCs, so I wont rub on the fenders at all.

[1-tonmudder]

with a 4" lift I can fit 42" IROCs. So I'll probably do 6: with 42" IROCs, so I wont rub on the fenders at all.

Sorry but you'll need 10-12 inches of lift to clear 42's or a buttload of cuttin.Realistically about 35-12.50 max with a 4 inch.

[thinair]

Originally Posted by 1-tonmudder

Sorry but you'll need 10-12 inches of lift to clear 42's or a buttload of cuttin.Realistically about 35-12.50 max with a 4 inch.

my avatar pic of my truck has 15" of lift with 42's and I could still get the tires to touch if I wanted to................

[dammitmitchell]

i have 6in and a add a leaf and ihad to fcut my fenders cause my 37's ate them alive mudding...42's is well wow.. maby if you had 50k forlkift axels he he he
check out the "wheel and tire chart" in this section it'll tell you exxactly what you can and cant do

[74 C-30]

if i were you i would leave the axles with the 4.56 gears go 6 inches, and 36s or 38s, the 36s leave you some room to flex while the 38s will fill out the fenders nicely

[special-K]

Not sure if I`m keeping up with this.You don`t want to haul or tow with 42s right?I see about $10,000 in mods before the paint in that list.That`s not counting what`s on the first list,either.You could buy someone`s lifted K/20 with alot of these goodies already on it and just swap a D60 in up front for alot less and have a 12v truck with an insulated cab since you`re not keeping the CUCV bumpers,pulls,and brushguard.

[thirdstreettito]

Well, as always. Plans subject to change.

[Blue_71]

well in the interest of not making another redundent thread, ill ask here. are all military 80s vehicles 4.56s? do all have lockers? i have a chance at a set of military axles for a heck of a deal, but i'd like to know what im buying. how hard are they to get parts for?

[74 C-30]

not all are 4.56s, the blazers were higher gears (lower numbers), not sure about the lockers...and the axles are 14 bolt rears and dana 60 front, same as one tons