quick help! frontend problems

[low 84]

well my steering is screwing up big time. what happens is if i more than moderately push on the brakes or hit a bump going at higher speeds the whole front end starts to shimmy/shake back and forth. this is not just a little vibration its big time shake. i checked the steering out in the parking lot and discovered that the braket that holds the idler arm to the frame was loose causing the center link and the rest of the steering setup to be wobbely. i tightened that bracket up. i also noticed that the baljionts on the idler arm are completeley shot. like no greese and a ton of play in them. i'm going to the parts store to get a new idler arm tommorow and put it on in the parking lot.

what else should i check? could a warped rotor also be adding to the problem or is this more than likley all steering related? what other steering parts should i check and how do i check them, rather than just going out there and shoking the crap out of them by hand to feel any play?

thanks for any help, i have to fix this fast b/c i dirve the trcuk every day and it is very dangerous with the steering screwed up like this. i have to drive 3 hours to dallas next fri too and there is no way i'm taking this thing on the highway with this problem.

[J-Spec C10]

Possible that your front shocks are blown, thats how my last ride felt when mine were shot. Also the Ball joints will play a major role in the ride quality too. I'm not sure but I think there are some available for lowered vehicles.

The warped rotor won't help either.

[low 84]

i know the shocks are good and there isn't much play i can feel in the balljoints. i'm not sure that the rotor is warped but its grooved real bad so there is a pretty good chance its warped.

on a side note, when i tighted up the idler arm bracket it doesn't happen as easily, but under moderate braking it still starts to shake hard, and if i let go of the brake it continues to shake uncontrolably. i think the braking just starts the shake but isn't actauly the problem. b/c i can let go of the brakes and it will continue to do it. the only way to get it to stop once it has started is to slow down to like 5-10 mph then it will stop shaking

[swervin ervin]

You got a idler arm that is shot. I know this is it. On a company truck I used to drive it would do it so bad you would have to come to complete stop to get it to quit. New idler arm and it all stopped.

[J-Spec C10]

Also, didnt you just change your rims, if your alignment is out a little it could multiply with better rim/tires or a different offset than before. Alignment does cause brake shudder.(vibration)

[low 84]

Originally posted by swervin ervin
You got a idler arm that is shot. I know this is it. On a company truck I used to drive it would do it so bad you would have to come to complete stop to get it to quit. New idler arm and it all stopped.

thanks for the conformation mike. i was pretty sure that was it. i can visabley see that the joints are toast on it and with no wieght on the supension i can jiggle the hell out of it. i'll get one tommorow morning and swap it on.

J-spec - i think you are on the right track with your thinking. it started doing it as soon as i put the 17's on. i think with the shorter, stiffer sidewall the steering linkage takes more of a beating and it just upset the idler arm that was on its last leg.

i put the arm on tommorow and let you guys know what happens

[bill_ont_canada]

Can't help with your Shimmy Shimmy Shake problem

I can only offer my sympathy, but if you want to feel good about it, picture this... If that happened to me I would be laying in a foot of snow in probably zero temperature hands freezing while I try to chip the ice off the d**m thing so the wrench would go on the nut and then it would likley be rusted on there, and need wd40 or something sprayed on it to help loosen it up. It would take hours to change that idler arm, that is if the wind did'nt get too bad. Even when the job was done and I went in the house for a couple of hours and got thawed out, It would take forever to get to where I was going because the roads would be slippery and generally crappy.

I bet that made ya feel all warm and fuzzy lol.

However the reason for this post is to ask you about your signature line

84 swb - 5/7 drop - old school style

can you tell me what old school style means how did you get your 5/7 drop ??? I would really appreciate it.

Have fun tomorrow with the idler arm I hope you live in a warm part of Texas.

Thanx ..

[low 84]

i used a western chasis kit, 2.5 inch spindles, 2.5 inch coils infront. on rear i used a flip kit and drop shackles. as far as the 'old school' part of my sig, that was kind of the style of the truck. more of an old hot rod look, with facotry rallies and such. but now that i put 17's on it i guess its not as old school any more

[J-Spec C10]

low84: did the new arm help?

[low 84]

i didn't do it yet. i'ts raining out side so i'm waiting fo it to clear up before i go roll around in the parking lot

[old Rusty C10]

i had a duster one time that i overtightend the front bearings on the drums and it did the same thing oce the car got hot. make sure they aint overtightened too