Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sstpeach · 03-04-2009, 01:02 PM

Ok, so I've got my 66 getting close to being back on the road....meaning I have the money saved to support the few end items left to complete her.

The truck has essentially been sitting for the past 8-10 years in a garage. I purchased from my Marine buddy who had it in his garage for over 5 plus years. I've had it in my garage for three years. I've now completed my Marine Corps tour and designated a civilian once again. (20 years aviation)

The truck has the original single master cylinder it came with in 66. I've rolled the truck back and forth out of my garage a hand full of times to work on it. Yes it has been stiff to move, I relate it to humidity down here in the South......I'm hoping anyway. No brakes on the floor, we use the hand brake to bring to a stop. The master cylinder cap has always been on the reservoir, the bowl is dry, have not tried to fill, have not pulled the tires to view brakes for staining. The system obviously has a leak since the reservoir is empty. I want to use this system until later when I plan to upgrade the brakes, when the money fund replenishes.

Ok, so my plan is to put the vehicle up on four jacks. Pull the drums and do a basic inspection. If no binding etc I will spray down to clean and re-assemble and adjust the drum tension. I will then fill the master and bleed the system. I will then identify where the leak(s) are and remedy the leaking wheel cylinder and bleed system as required. Once this is complete I will change the pads and resurface the drums.

Am I missing anything here? Should I air purge the system by blowing air into the master with each bleed screw removed? I will bleed system from right rear to left front. Any assistance would greatly be appreciated.

kizer · 03-04-2009, 01:23 PM

Well from my experiences with brakes. I'd pull off the bleeder that is the farthest away and I believe its the Drivers rear. Don't qoute me on that exactly, but I'd crack that and fill up the resivour so fluid and air can be forced out. Then I'd try the next one which I think is the passenger rear and so on up to the front. Of course I'd close each one as I move forward.

I just like to drip bleed when I know a system is rather dry. After all 4 have been filled and drip bled then the fun of bleeding comes. You know the pushing fast to force out the fluid and letting up on the brakes slow for each wheel. The resivor is really small and will empty super fast.

No I don't out right remember the lines that are farthest away since I haven't really takled my brakes on this truck, but always start from the farthest away first and move to the closest.

I would for sure make sure that you purge your system off all brake fluid during the process. If its been sitting for that long very low I'm sure its saturated with air and is less than effective.

I can't find a picture of it, but normally I take a small bottle filled with brake fluid and put in the resivoir upside down so it can slowly drain out and keep the resivor filled up so it doesn't empty while I bleed.

Here it is. I have this bottle.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924

jason65 · 03-04-2009, 01:32 PM

I bet the seals in your master cylender are dry roted. I would go ahead and get a dual master cylender and replace all the soft lines. The single one is not a good one. If you loose fluid in one place youll not have brakes at all.

oldblu65 · 03-04-2009, 02:45 PM

Peach , the left rear is actually the furtherest from the master cylinder , then the right rear , followed by the right front , then the left front .The brake line goes down from the MC to the LF wheel , then to the RF wheel , then along the right side of the frame to the RR side wheel , then across the rear end to the LR rear wheel . I did my brakes a few months ago and spent many hours under my 1965 C10 looking at the brake system layout ! Good luck and let us know how you make out ! Also , Jason is right about the MC seals drying out . I'm going to have to replace mine as soon as the weather warms up .

Joey~AP · 03-04-2009, 02:54 PM

Wheel cylinders are $7.99 at Auto Zone.

New brake lines are cheap and fairly easy to install.

Thanks for servin, Marine!

BMSJaX · 03-04-2009, 03:02 PM

When I got my '64 it hadn't been driven in 7 years and had been stored outside. I replaced ALL the brake components; wheel cyl(DO NOT get Autozone cylinders, they are made by 'Brakeware' and are no good, get ones from Kragen. My front drivers is one from autozone because kragen didn't carry that one at the time, I had to replace it three times in one day because the seals blew and I was just bleeding the brakes), bought all new hardware, shoes, master cyl(seals were rotted), soft lines and drums. I even added a power booster to the single master and the brakes work great.

jchav62 · 03-04-2009, 03:22 PM

Replace anything in the brake system that contains rubber. The Master Cyl, wheel cylinders, the front rubber brake lines. I would blow out all the brake lines with compressed air, install the new parts and bleed the system. Good luck!

Joey~AP · 03-04-2009, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMSJaX

When I got my '64 it hadn't been driven in 7 years and had been stored outside. I replaced ALL the brake components; wheel cyl(DO NOT get Autozone cylinders, they are made by 'Brakeware' and are no good, get ones from Kragen. My front drivers is one from autozone because kragen didn't carry that one at the time, I had to replace it three times in one day because the seals blew and I was just bleeding the brakes), bought all new hardware, shoes, master cyl(seals were rotted), soft lines and drums. I even added a power booster to the single master and the brakes work great.

Great! I just bought a set.

sstpeach · 03-04-2009, 05:09 PM

Just ordered from O'Reilly auto parts store the following:
Original replacement master cylinder = $19
Wheel cylinders each wheel $14 each = $56
Rubber lines each wheel $10 each = $40
New hardware each axle $10 each =$20

I figure this was cheap insurance for now until later on I upgrade to a dual master. I will do that when its time for the first brake change.

BMSJaX · 03-04-2009, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joey~AP

Great! I just bought a set.

hahaha, I recommend returning them. 'Brakeware" makes alot of poor parts. Even my friend who works for Autozone recommends using another auto parts store for anything brake related.

sstpeach · 03-04-2009, 06:13 PM

Due to your guidance I avoided Autozone and went to O'Reilly's to place my brake order, they do not carry Brakeware. Thanks again for the knowledge, saved me a trip returning faulty brake components and 10% off for being former military.

jason65 · 03-04-2009, 07:08 PM

With a single master cylender ya need to make sure your e-brake works good. It only takes one time.

Eagletucky · 03-05-2009, 08:36 PM

Any reccomondation on what kind of dual MC setup to get?

**ChiefRocka** · 03-05-2009, 08:52 PM

Pick up a 67-70 Impala (drum/drum) style master...that is what I ran in my truck, and a few other here I believe.
-
-

Eagletucky · 03-05-2009, 09:22 PM

SWEET!!!

Thanks alot!

sstpeach · 03-06-2009, 12:11 AM

So all you did on for the brake lines was separate the rear line from the front at the front cross member where my truck has a "T" fitting and ran the new rear line parallel to the front brake line up to the master huh?

I'm sure you hand made the line or do you know of a company that offers this line?

jason65 · 03-06-2009, 12:27 AM

I used a dual master cylender and booster with valve from cpp. Comes in a kit. Thats classic precision products. Give or take on the spelling. They got a .com in case ya didn't know. Theres pics in my thread.

sstpeach · 03-06-2009, 12:46 AM

I just looked for classic precision products....no joy. Post the link please or phone number to business, part number if you have it. I want to do the same route on mine.

94tx · 03-06-2009, 01:45 AM

sst peach, not to take your thread off topic, what kind of aviation did you do? I have two friends in the marines and my grandfather was also. My friend just left yesterday for a tour in Iraq, as a crew chief on the CH 46's.

and here's CPP for ya: http://www.classicperform.com/

jason65 · 03-06-2009, 08:57 AM

I knew I screwed something up. But you got there just the same. I havent even really thought about them for a year know.

**ChiefRocka** · 03-06-2009, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sstpeach

So all you did on for the brake lines was separate the rear line from the front at the front cross member where my truck has a "T" fitting and ran the new rear line parallel to the front brake line up to the master huh?

I'm sure you hand made the line or do you know of a company that offers this line?

Yeap...just seperate the rear line at the R/F wheel...and plug the tee. Use a union for the second line to the rear brakes.

**Captainfab** · 03-07-2009, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eagletucky

Any reccomondation on what kind of dual MC setup to get?

Starting in '67 the pickups had dual resevior master cylinders also. They have a distribution block (looks like a prop valve) that mounts just under the MC. When converting to a dual resevior MC, I have used the tube on the front crossmember from a parts truck for the new line to the rear. Already bent and looks factory

03-04-2009, 01:02 PM	#1
sstpeach Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Haslet, TX Posts: 46	Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Ok, so I've got my 66 getting close to being back on the road....meaning I have the money saved to support the few end items left to complete her. The truck has essentially been sitting for the past 8-10 years in a garage. I purchased from my Marine buddy who had it in his garage for over 5 plus years. I've had it in my garage for three years. I've now completed my Marine Corps tour and designated a civilian once again. (20 years aviation) The truck has the original single master cylinder it came with in 66. I've rolled the truck back and forth out of my garage a hand full of times to work on it. Yes it has been stiff to move, I relate it to humidity down here in the South......I'm hoping anyway. No brakes on the floor, we use the hand brake to bring to a stop. The master cylinder cap has always been on the reservoir, the bowl is dry, have not tried to fill, have not pulled the tires to view brakes for staining. The system obviously has a leak since the reservoir is empty. I want to use this system until later when I plan to upgrade the brakes, when the money fund replenishes. Ok, so my plan is to put the vehicle up on four jacks. Pull the drums and do a basic inspection. If no binding etc I will spray down to clean and re-assemble and adjust the drum tension. I will then fill the master and bleed the system. I will then identify where the leak(s) are and remedy the leaking wheel cylinder and bleed system as required. Once this is complete I will change the pads and resurface the drums. Am I missing anything here? Should I air purge the system by blowing air into the master with each bleed screw removed? I will bleed system from right rear to left front. Any assistance would greatly be appreciated.

03-04-2009, 01:23 PM	#2
kizer Its Deja Vu time again Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Marysville, North of Seattle WA Posts: 815	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Well from my experiences with brakes. I'd pull off the bleeder that is the farthest away and I believe its the Drivers rear. Don't qoute me on that exactly, but I'd crack that and fill up the resivour so fluid and air can be forced out. Then I'd try the next one which I think is the passenger rear and so on up to the front. Of course I'd close each one as I move forward. I just like to drip bleed when I know a system is rather dry. After all 4 have been filled and drip bled then the fun of bleeding comes. You know the pushing fast to force out the fluid and letting up on the brakes slow for each wheel. The resivor is really small and will empty super fast. No I don't out right remember the lines that are farthest away since I haven't really takled my brakes on this truck, but always start from the farthest away first and move to the closest. I would for sure make sure that you purge your system off all brake fluid during the process. If its been sitting for that long very low I'm sure its saturated with air and is less than effective. I can't find a picture of it, but normally I take a small bottle filled with brake fluid and put in the resivoir upside down so it can slowly drain out and keep the resivor filled up so it doesn't empty while I bleed. Here it is. I have this bottle. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92924 __________________ Its not pretty but its mine to figure out. The build / The Photos / Build Diary Last edited by kizer; 03-04-2009 at 01:29 PM.

03-04-2009, 01:32 PM	#3
jason65 Registerd User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,118	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years I bet the seals in your master cylender are dry roted. I would go ahead and get a dual master cylender and replace all the soft lines. The single one is not a good one. If you loose fluid in one place youll not have brakes at all.

03-04-2009, 02:45 PM	#4
oldblu65 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: " The Scenic City " Posts: 189	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Peach , the left rear is actually the furtherest from the master cylinder , then the right rear , followed by the right front , then the left front .The brake line goes down from the MC to the LF wheel , then to the RF wheel , then along the right side of the frame to the RR side wheel , then across the rear end to the LR rear wheel . I did my brakes a few months ago and spent many hours under my 1965 C10 looking at the brake system layout ! Good luck and let us know how you make out ! Also , Jason is right about the MC seals drying out . I'm going to have to replace mine as soon as the weather warms up . Last edited by oldblu65; 03-04-2009 at 02:47 PM. Reason: spElin ?

03-04-2009, 02:54 PM	#5
Joey~AP TexasBowhunter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: alvin, texas Posts: 450	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Wheel cylinders are $7.99 at Auto Zone. New brake lines are cheap and fairly easy to install. Thanks for servin, Marine! __________________ Build in progress for son's first truck.

03-04-2009, 03:02 PM	#6
BMSJaX Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA Posts: 173	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years When I got my '64 it hadn't been driven in 7 years and had been stored outside. I replaced ALL the brake components; wheel cyl(DO NOT get Autozone cylinders, they are made by 'Brakeware' and are no good, get ones from Kragen. My front drivers is one from autozone because kragen didn't carry that one at the time, I had to replace it three times in one day because the seals blew and I was just bleeding the brakes), bought all new hardware, shoes, master cyl(seals were rotted), soft lines and drums. I even added a power booster to the single master and the brakes work great.

03-04-2009, 03:22 PM	#7
jchav62 1962 C-10 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Las Vegas, New Mexico Posts: 4,978	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Replace anything in the brake system that contains rubber. The Master Cyl, wheel cylinders, the front rubber brake lines. I would blow out all the brake lines with compressed air, install the new parts and bleed the system. Good luck! __________________ Joseph Chavez "See the USA in a Chevrolet!!" ......................_____ .........________//__{\_____ ,,,,,,,/__(O)___//___/__(O)_/ 1962 C10 Shortbed Fleetside 327/th350 GV overdrive 1974 C10 Longbed Fleetside 350/th350 "The Trash Truck" 1999 Chevy 2500 OBS, Longbed 5.7/4L80E 4x4 2015 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x4

03-04-2009, 05:09 PM	#9
sstpeach Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Haslet, TX Posts: 46	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Just ordered from O'Reilly auto parts store the following: Original replacement master cylinder = $19 Wheel cylinders each wheel $14 each = $56 Rubber lines each wheel $10 each = $40 New hardware each axle $10 each =$20 I figure this was cheap insurance for now until later on I upgrade to a dual master. I will do that when its time for the first brake change.

03-04-2009, 06:13 PM	#11
sstpeach Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Haslet, TX Posts: 46	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Due to your guidance I avoided Autozone and went to O'Reilly's to place my brake order, they do not carry Brakeware. Thanks again for the knowledge, saved me a trip returning faulty brake components and 10% off for being former military.

03-04-2009, 07:08 PM	#12
jason65 Registerd User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,118	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years With a single master cylender ya need to make sure your e-brake works good. It only takes one time.

03-05-2009, 08:36 PM	#13
Eagletucky Where did THAT bolt go? Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Speedway, Indiana Posts: 306	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Any reccomondation on what kind of dual MC setup to get?

03-05-2009, 08:52 PM	#14
ChiefRocka Hollister, CA. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 6,150	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years Pick up a 67-70 Impala (drum/drum) style master...that is what I ran in my truck, and a few other here I believe. - - __________________ John What the Heck is that ?? CURRENT BUILDS: 62 BurbMaster Other Builds: My '63 C-10,LWB,CC,BBW '06 HD StrAight Axle Swap Father/Son '67 C-20, LQ9,4L80,Bagged,8-Lugger !!Good Friend Richard's Build AMERICAN CUSTOMS & CLASSICS (831) 630-1965 www.ACCHOLLISTER.com ACC on FACEBOOK "Rest in Peace, Mom & Dad ... I will see you again someday!"

03-05-2009, 09:22 PM	#15
Eagletucky Where did THAT bolt go? Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Speedway, Indiana Posts: 306	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years SWEET!!! Thanks alot!

03-06-2009, 12:11 AM	#16
sstpeach Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Haslet, TX Posts: 46	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years So all you did on for the brake lines was separate the rear line from the front at the front cross member where my truck has a "T" fitting and ran the new rear line parallel to the front brake line up to the master huh? I'm sure you hand made the line or do you know of a company that offers this line?

03-06-2009, 12:27 AM	#17
jason65 Registerd User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,118	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years I used a dual master cylender and booster with valve from cpp. Comes in a kit. Thats classic precision products. Give or take on the spelling. They got a .com in case ya didn't know. Theres pics in my thread.



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03-06-2009, 12:46 AM	#18
sstpeach Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Haslet, TX Posts: 46	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years I just looked for classic precision products....no joy. Post the link please or phone number to business, part number if you have it. I want to do the same route on mine.

03-06-2009, 01:45 AM	#19
94tx Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 78	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years sst peach, not to take your thread off topic, what kind of aviation did you do? I have two friends in the marines and my grandfather was also. My friend just left yesterday for a tour in Iraq, as a crew chief on the CH 46's. and here's CPP for ya: http://www.classicperform.com/ Last edited by 94tx; 03-06-2009 at 01:47 AM. Reason: adding link

03-06-2009, 08:57 AM	#20
jason65 Registerd User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,118	Re: Brake Help for 66 Chevy not drove for 8-10 years I knew I screwed something up. But you got there just the same. I havent even really thought about them for a year know.

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