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03-26-2009, 06:47 PM | #1 |
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Location: Missoula, MT
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To bag or not to bag...Help
Hi Guys,
So I am really on the fence about going with an air suspension. I really want to take advantage of Thorbecke Bros. front end kit special that ends on the 31st but I just can’t pull the trigger. I have been scouring this site for two months now but still have some hang ups, my big fear now is that I will spend a bunch of money on a system and then find myself constantly under the truck with a brush and a cup of soap and water. I want to drive and enjoy my truck, not be annoyed by an air system that’s always giving me fits. Here are my concerns: -Potential for leaky fittings & system problems -Wheel alignment? -What’s the best way to air up your bags with out a system? (I need to purchase my system in stages) -What kind of added maintenance is involved? -What size air lines? I don’t want it slow, but I also don’t want it so fast that I can’t fine tune. So how about some re-assurance for a fist timer ready to take the plunge Thanks |
03-26-2009, 09:32 PM | #2 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Since you have done some research and you know a complete system isn't in your budget, I suggest build your system in stages.
Buy dropped spindles for the front, and cut a coil off of the stock spring. For the rear replace your springs with bags and run a line to the rear with Schrader valves. As money permits buy the suspension components of your choice to complete the system.
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03-27-2009, 02:04 AM | #3 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Mt you have some good concerns but I will help you out with my experience.
My 65 truck I am building will be the 7 vehicle I have installed air into. If you use DOT brass fittings and take your time with the install you will ZERO leaks at the bags or tank/compressor. I also always run my 1/2 air line inside 5/8 fuel line for added protection from nicks and cuts. Make sure you electrical system and alternator can keep up with the extra demand from the air ride compressor. Run your compressor off of a relay and directly to the battery. The relay will make sure your air compressor get 14.1 volts of supplied power no matter how many other electrical components are running in your truck..... To get a better understanding of how relays work click the link below....... You can actually get brighter headlights by using relays as well. http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml As for wheel alignment. You will have you alignment set at ride height. The alignment will change with more or less psi but that is normal with air bags. It really is not a big deal. As for air line size and speed. 3/8 valves and 1/2 line will be plenty for your truck. Or you can run 1/2 valves and 1/2 lines. You can also install ball valves before each inflate and deflate valve to customize your up and down speed. On my 66 Impala I had ball valves on my deflate valves so I would not slam my car down to fast due to my exhaust being 1/2 from the ground when aired out.... Here is a picture of my Impala valve setup showing the "slow down valves" As for maintenance it is pretty easy. Keep moisture out of your system by using a good moisture trap and drain your tank frequently. Moisture is a main killer for air ride systems. Good luck....... Last edited by six5; 03-27-2009 at 02:13 AM. |
03-27-2009, 04:16 PM | #4 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
N2TRUX – That’s not a bad Idea…the reason I have to stage my air system install is that I do have to dump some money into drop spindles and disc brakes among other things (long list). I could order the front end kit, save the bag plates for future use and then run the bags in the back, I like it! Would you T the two air lines together w/ one Schrader or use two separate Schrader’s and use a pressure gauge to get even psi in both bags? Not sure on cutting the front springs, if you take out a coil how much drop is that? I have a six cyl truck and I am dropping in a 454. I have been told BB with the 6cyl springs will drop the truck 1”
Six5- Good information! So if I understand correct it’s a safe bet to just run ½ line and valves and if it’s to fast you can always slow it down with valve controls? Do you have a larger picture of the ball valves you installed? Also can you buy the DOT fitting locally or is it best to just order from Suicidedoors or? Thanks again guys for the info, if anyone else has any bits of advice I will take it! |
03-27-2009, 10:46 PM | #5 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Here is what the flow valves look like.....
You should be able to purchase the DOT fittings locally at a "Hose and Fitting" store for a good price. Last edited by six5; 03-27-2009 at 10:46 PM. |
03-28-2009, 12:14 AM | #6 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
You can also get the fittings from your local semi-truck store or online of course...and use two schrader valves...if you T them you'll have air exchange in the corners for a not so controllable ride...
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03-28-2009, 08:06 AM | #7 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
How about a t with one schrader valve in the rear? Use a ball valve beween the two sides. Air it up, then close the valve to get equal pressure in both sides that will not transfer side to side while driving.
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03-28-2009, 08:55 AM | #8 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Here is some good reading http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/h...-first-258384/
I know its a s10 forum but stuff like line size and valves all that applies to any air bag system.And no you don't have to scrub the underside of your truck daily with air bags.Look at the rear of any semi it has air bags with leafs only way to hurt a air bag is something rubbing on it or heat from like the exhaust same thing goes for the air lines.Also try to keep like 2 or 3 inch ground clearance in case something fails you don't slam on the ground dragging it.On the alignment call the places before you go some won't touch a car/truck with air bags added.When they do the alignment make sure you have the truck sitting at whatever ride height you like. Its best to mark your psi gauges where you want the ride height.The pros are it will ride a lot smoother and you got something to play with in parking lots. |
03-29-2009, 08:39 AM | #9 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Let me give you my view.....
I have been building rods for over 40 yrs. & personally think that air bags are just a added expense that also makes the suspension less reliable. I think if the money spent on air ride would be spent elswhere you would add more value to the truck. Don Meyer-Mech Engr. |
03-29-2009, 11:35 AM | #10 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Don your experience and knowledge is appreciated. What you state is absolute fact in that a static suspension "rarely" fails or even has the potential to do so. In defense of air adjustable suspension, it only fails when improperly installed.
Since you have 40+ years of experience of building hotrods, you know how to properly install a static suspension that will ride low and still be reliable and comfortable. You also know that there are features that fixed suspension is not capable of offering that an adjustable suspension does.
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03-29-2009, 11:39 AM | #11 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Air makes for a good 'anti-theft' device when on the road @ a show or cruise .
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03-29-2009, 01:08 PM | #12 |
3DrDwn--the 'burb not the band
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Unless you're parked @ the local Hooters
Josh
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03-29-2009, 04:23 PM | #13 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Well I think I have made up my mind, for now I am going to just bag the rear…that will give me a good opportunity to mess with fittings air lines etc. For the front I will run some drop spindles and see what my 6 cyl springs do once the BB is in. Thanks to everyone who dropped in to give their 2 cents. As soon as it stops snowing sideways and spring shows up I will get rolling on this thing. I’ll post current photos whenever things start to happen, here is an old one for now.
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03-29-2009, 04:38 PM | #14 | |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Quote:
Post the pics when you get it done.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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03-29-2009, 04:52 PM | #15 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
You have made the right decision to bag your truck. When done right, you won't want to use springs ever again. As for reliability, as long as it is installed correctly, you should have miles of trouble free cruising. The system in my truck has been there for almost four years, and I have never had to replace, remove, or clean a single part of the system in almost 40,000 miles.
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03-29-2009, 05:05 PM | #16 | |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Quote:
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03-29-2009, 05:13 PM | #17 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
I put my oil/ water trap under my blazer so I could easily drain it into a bottle or drain pan.
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03-29-2009, 09:56 PM | #18 |
3DrDwn--the 'burb not the band
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: missoula, mt
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Matt,
If it will help you get both front and rear done I can make your parts for you or show you how to make them so all you need is to spend money on are the valves, bags, tank and comp. You cover the cost of your own parts and put in a little sweat equity I'll show you how to get her done without breaking the bank. I'm off all day Weds and will be in the shop starting the stock floor body drop on my loaner if you want to come take a look at a few things. Josh
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Slo and Lo that is the tempo. '72 burb build page here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=259256 '89 GMC Dually crew build page coming soon. 88 4x4 crew DD duallys past/present pics here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...46#post4001246 89 1 ton Dually rear flip kit install here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=354327 |
03-30-2009, 12:43 AM | #19 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
General maintenance is a must, just like any other part of the vehicle. Keep the water out and yes, clean the compressor filters regularly. Make sure nothing ever rubs and all lines are protected when they pass over or through parts of the truck. I also prefer plunger style valves to diaphragm valves.
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03-30-2009, 04:42 PM | #20 |
3DrDwn--the 'burb not the band
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: missoula, mt
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Anybody that doubt's the usefulness or reliability of a bag system needs only to talk to Tony @ ART, Bill @ Ektensive, or me. All 3 of us have bagged 1-tons that are used heavily for towing vehicles and such to shows logging countless miles. Let's not forget about our long haul trucker brothers easily logging 1 million plus miles on air suspension.
Josh
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Slo and Lo that is the tempo. '72 burb build page here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=259256 '89 GMC Dually crew build page coming soon. 88 4x4 crew DD duallys past/present pics here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...46#post4001246 89 1 ton Dually rear flip kit install here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=354327 Last edited by RunninLo; 03-30-2009 at 04:43 PM. Reason: for a college grad my spell check sure does suck |
06-22-2009, 04:34 PM | #21 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Well it’s on… I ordered 4 bags and some plates form Suicide Doors last week! I just got off the phone today with ECE so my drop spindles and brake kit should be on its way shortly. Just had to tell someone, I can't wait!
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06-22-2009, 07:13 PM | #22 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Congrats on your purchase. Post your progress as it comes along.
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06-22-2009, 10:29 PM | #23 | |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Quote:
Not to mention the majority of big rigs in the country... Cant remember ever seeing one with coils.... |
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06-22-2009, 10:30 PM | #24 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
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06-23-2009, 05:42 PM | #25 |
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Re: To bag or not to bag...Help
Airlift Dominator D2600 for all four...I kicked around RE7's I couldn’t find anyone saying anything bad about either bag...so I went with the cheapest ones
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