Alignment - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

rookierodbuilder · 06-07-2009, 01:20 AM

does anyone know how to go about aligning the front end of these trucks specifically the 63-66 trucks. I just got done re-assembling mine and need to know how to go about measuring everything and so on.

poorboy · 06-07-2009, 11:24 AM

If you don't already have the camber/caster gauge and turn plates it might be better to have a shop do it. It would cost $300-$400 for the tools.

**scotts62** · 06-07-2009, 12:30 PM

I just use a tape measure and measure front and back of tire and the spacing from the back wheel to the front, that will get you to the alignment shop for the real deal.

Hipper · 06-07-2009, 04:05 PM

as scott said tape and then get to a good alignment shop. I do alignments and there is no replacement for a good machine (and a good tech running the machine)

joe231 · 06-07-2009, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hipper

as scott said tape and then get to a good alignment shop. I do alignments and there is no replacement for a good machine (and a good tech running the machine)

good machines are everywhere.....good techs, not so much

**TR65** · 06-07-2009, 06:24 PM

Hey Rodbuilder,

Yep, if you just want to spend money and trust someone go to the shop. And you can get a good alignment given the good tech and good machine as mentioned above.

If you want to learn how to do it and trust yourself these trucks can be aligned very accurately in your shop. I work with some guys who make a living very accurately measuring automobile suspensions (kinematics and compliance). They do their own alignments at home with simple tools.

You can easily set the toe as mentioned above. Toe should typically be set to "closest to zero within the specifications". Our trucks just say 3/16" toe in. I set mine at about 1/16" toe in. That gives you about zero toe under operating conditions and thus best tire wear. If your tires wear more on the inside shoulder you are toed out too much, if they wear more on the outside shoulders you are towed in too much. If they wear evenly, the toe is correct.

The toe setting method using a string and thumb tacks.

Roll the truck straight ahead to a stop on a flat surface. Put a thumb tack in the tire tread (at the most forward point on the tire) with a string tied to it. Put another thumb tack at the same height in the other tire tread and pull the string taut. Mark the string at the thumb tack. Roll the truck forward one half turn of the tires and pull the string taut again and measure with a ruler the difference in the length with the previous mark. That difference is the toe. Toe out if the distance is greater at the front. I think that the actual specification for toe is referenced back to the wheel diameter so a little geometry is in order to get the actual number.

Camber can be pretty reliably measured using a plastic magnetic angle level and a straight bar that can locate on the wheel rims. The shims on the upper A-arms are used to set camber and caster.

Caster is harder because you need turn plates (allow the wheels to turn without loading up the steering linkage). You can take two flat plates and grease between them and make effective turn plates. You can then use a tool like this http://www.rebcoperformance.com/cata...id=265&catid=3 to measure the caster.

Good luck,

TR

rookierodbuilder · 06-08-2009, 11:29 PM

Thanks for all the great advice guys. I will have to go with just a rough alignment and then have a professional do the fine tweaking as I have no level concrete floors to do it on but I'm sure I can get close enough to make it somewhat drivable.

P.S. will body shims work as replacements for the original spacers or will I have to order replacements?

**scotts62** · 06-08-2009, 11:43 PM

If you have a hibdon or firestone around there just tell them that your are doing a rough align and you need some shims they usually just give you a handful of them.

joe231 · 06-09-2009, 07:34 AM

any metal shims will work as long as they fit over the studs. I know autozone has a kit of assorted shims for a few bucks, I'm sure most of the other part stores do too....

rookierodbuilder · 06-09-2009, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joe231

any metal shims will work as long as they fit over the studs. I know autozone has a kit of assorted shims for a few bucks, I'm sure most of the other part stores do too....

yeah, the shims at autozone were what I had in mind. I think I'll give those a try.

06-07-2009, 01:20 AM	#1
rookierodbuilder Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Sharpsburg, Ky. Posts: 110	Alignment does anyone know how to go about aligning the front end of these trucks specifically the 63-66 trucks. I just got done re-assembling mine and need to know how to go about measuring everything and so on.

06-07-2009, 11:24 AM	#2
poorboy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Oregon City, Or Posts: 758	Re: Alignment If you don't already have the camber/caster gauge and turn plates it might be better to have a shop do it. It would cost $300-$400 for the tools. __________________ 63 short fleet Patina build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=287751 Man I want another one.

06-07-2009, 12:30 PM	#3
scotts62 One day... Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tuttle, Ok Posts: 9,243	Re: Alignment I just use a tape measure and measure front and back of tire and the spacing from the back wheel to the front, that will get you to the alignment shop for the real deal. __________________ Scott 93 crew cab build Project 62

06-07-2009, 04:05 PM	#4
Hipper Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 148	Re: Alignment as scott said tape and then get to a good alignment shop. I do alignments and there is no replacement for a good machine (and a good tech running the machine) __________________ 71 GMC Long Bed, 454,factory everything, lowered, and shaved. 64 GMC Short Bed (great grandfathers truck) 65 Chevy 1 ton Dually a/c p/s p/b v8 auto 89 Jeep Cherokee 3" lift 79 MG Midget (My 7 year old vehicle) 29 Ford Model A Rat Rod (in the works) 86 pontiac fiero 2.5 manual18 year olds) 87 pontiac fiero SE 2.8 auto (18 year olds) 90 Mitsubishi eclipes turbo AWD (18 year olds) 69 BMW 1600 (wifes toy)

06-07-2009, 06:24 PM	#6
TR65 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 873	Re: Alignment Hey Rodbuilder, Yep, if you just want to spend money and trust someone go to the shop. And you can get a good alignment given the good tech and good machine as mentioned above. If you want to learn how to do it and trust yourself these trucks can be aligned very accurately in your shop. I work with some guys who make a living very accurately measuring automobile suspensions (kinematics and compliance). They do their own alignments at home with simple tools. You can easily set the toe as mentioned above. Toe should typically be set to "closest to zero within the specifications". Our trucks just say 3/16" toe in. I set mine at about 1/16" toe in. That gives you about zero toe under operating conditions and thus best tire wear. If your tires wear more on the inside shoulder you are toed out too much, if they wear more on the outside shoulders you are towed in too much. If they wear evenly, the toe is correct. The toe setting method using a string and thumb tacks. Roll the truck straight ahead to a stop on a flat surface. Put a thumb tack in the tire tread (at the most forward point on the tire) with a string tied to it. Put another thumb tack at the same height in the other tire tread and pull the string taut. Mark the string at the thumb tack. Roll the truck forward one half turn of the tires and pull the string taut again and measure with a ruler the difference in the length with the previous mark. That difference is the toe. Toe out if the distance is greater at the front. I think that the actual specification for toe is referenced back to the wheel diameter so a little geometry is in order to get the actual number. Camber can be pretty reliably measured using a plastic magnetic angle level and a straight bar that can locate on the wheel rims. The shims on the upper A-arms are used to set camber and caster. Caster is harder because you need turn plates (allow the wheels to turn without loading up the steering linkage). You can take two flat plates and grease between them and make effective turn plates. You can then use a tool like this http://www.rebcoperformance.com/cata...id=265&catid=3 to measure the caster. Good luck, TR __________________ 1965 C10 SWB Fleet Two owner LS2 Swap Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=413880

06-08-2009, 11:29 PM	#7
rookierodbuilder Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Sharpsburg, Ky. Posts: 110	Re: Alignment Thanks for all the great advice guys. I will have to go with just a rough alignment and then have a professional do the fine tweaking as I have no level concrete floors to do it on but I'm sure I can get close enough to make it somewhat drivable. P.S. will body shims work as replacements for the original spacers or will I have to order replacements?

06-08-2009, 11:43 PM	#8
scotts62 One day... Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tuttle, Ok Posts: 9,243	Re: Alignment If you have a hibdon or firestone around there just tell them that your are doing a rough align and you need some shims they usually just give you a handful of them. __________________ Scott 93 crew cab build Project 62

06-09-2009, 07:34 AM	#9
joe231 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Palmer, Alaska Posts: 13,821	Re: Alignment any metal shims will work as long as they fit over the studs. I know autozone has a kit of assorted shims for a few bucks, I'm sure most of the other part stores do too.... __________________ *CHEVY ONLY*



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