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im tha best · 08-17-2009, 03:49 PM

I want the luxery of power brakes but i dont wanna to do a drum to disc converion. So i was wondering if i could install a brake booster and new lines and still run drums?

Sinister · 08-17-2009, 03:53 PM

Yes.

im tha best · 08-17-2009, 03:57 PM

ok. would that make me go absolutely broke or is it in a reasonable price range for a teenager?

Sinister · 08-17-2009, 04:09 PM

Not sure on the specifics of setting this up. A booster is $100-$150 IIRC. Somebody who's done this will probaly post shortly.

mclairmo · 08-17-2009, 04:14 PM

I just did this and a rebuilt booster from Autozone is $100 but you will need the brackets that mount the booster to the firewall and the linkage to connect the booster to the pedal. I bought a used booster set up off Ebay for about $40 and just used the brackets/linkage. Others have used a 73 and later booster with success but I have never done that. You will need to hook up the booster to full manifold vacuum. Use large nipple at base of carb or use a 90 degree fitting in the intake.

im tha best · 08-17-2009, 04:34 PM

ok thanks. All this could be done in a weekend cause its my dd and i cant have it sitting for too long.

mclairmo · 08-17-2009, 05:00 PM

It can be done in one morning assuming you have every part needed already. Juts don't remove the master cylinder or break open the brake lines. Just pull the master away from the firewall and bend the hard lines enough to get the booster in. Also, make sure that the hole in the master cylinder piston is shallow enough to accomodate the new pin coming out of the booster. The pin must not push on that piston in a resting state but also cannot have a lot of slack either.

im tha best · 08-17-2009, 05:09 PM

ok. my brothers girlfriend's dad used to be a mechanic

and im going over there tonight so he can help me put on the rear brakes that i have yet to do. so when i'm over there, i'll ask him to help me when i get the parts for all this. cause its not a cool thing when youre going up to a stop sign and youre still rolling and your last resort is pulling the e-brake and sliding for ever. thanks for all your help. im going to keep it all in mind.

mclairmo · 08-17-2009, 05:11 PM

Manual drums should not be that bad. If they are, you have other problems and the booster may not fix those maladies. May want to bleed your brakes really good and make sure all the wheel cylinders are dry and you have no fluid or grease on the face of the shoes.

im tha best · 08-17-2009, 05:17 PM

ok i'll be sure to do that tonight. what happens if one or more of the wheel cylinders is leaking a little. what would i need to do to fix that and why is it a big deal?

msgross · 08-17-2009, 05:18 PM

good info, i'd get the drums and shoes in good condition first, bleed the system (totally if you can) and see what you got. I had a 69 with drum brakes and wasn't afraid to slam on them to stop....

Search our parts board for brake booster parts and you can always do that upgrade later. I found that you can buy a booster/MC combo from autozone which only cost about $10 more than the booster alone. Don't trust a used booster though, they can rot inside...

msgross · 08-17-2009, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by im tha best

ok i'll be sure to do that tonight. what happens if one or more of the wheel cylinders is leaking a little. what would i need to do to fix that and why is it a big deal?

wheel cylinders cost $10 and will require you to pull the brakes apart (no big deal). A leaky cylinder will get fliud on the brakes (BAD!) and cause you to lose braking (VERY BAD!).

If you are unsure about doing them then just take it to a brake shop and have them gone over.. these parts are cheap anyway and your life is worth it!

im tha best · 08-17-2009, 05:23 PM

ok. i changed the front brakes myself cause i know a little about what needs to happen but i dont remember the brakes pads getting anything on them or anything. my uncle told me i might need to get the rotors turned or lathed but i havent done that yet. i would like to do everything myself because thats what i want my career to be when i get old so if worst comes to worst i'll take it to a brake shop and get them to fix it.

msgross · 08-17-2009, 05:29 PM

did you put new wheel cylinders on as well? If they look wet and greasy then you should... I understand doing it yourself, I can do disc brakes but haven't played with drums much.

BTW you don't have rotors if you have 4 wheel drums... a brake shop can turn the drums to make them round again...

im tha best · 08-17-2009, 05:34 PM

no i didnt put new wheel cylinders on and they looked just fine. a little dirty but no greese or brake fluid.

yea i know, i dont know why i typed rotors. i was thinking about the full brake job that i did on my brothers jeep at the same time that i was typing lol

oldblue1968chevy · 08-17-2009, 05:55 PM

i bought a whole truck for 340$ and converted to power discs on my 68 i was 16 at the time i it took a few days but mostly cause it too so long to get my balljoints out....

go power disc if u can other wise do iwat i did...

took booster brakets and pedel rod from donor truck..put on your truck and hook up vacumn

also, you have the time and option to take and clean and paint looks lot better good luck and if ya got any ? just ask me i will help ya drive ur truck to school

mclairmo · 08-17-2009, 07:26 PM

Leaking wheel cylinders will allow all of your brake fluid to literally leak out leaving you with no or little brake fluid, leading to a catastrophic brake failure. Additionally, they will soak the shoes and the shoes will not operate when soaked with brake fluid. You will lose all braking. I know, it happened to me before. Turning the drums will not really solve your problems. Concentrate on bleeding the brakes well and making sure you have no leaks anywhere and be sure the hoses are in good shape and installed correctly with no kinks or pinched off areas.

msgross · 08-17-2009, 08:59 PM

nice thing about new wheel cylinders (besides being able to brake) is being able to turn the bleed screw without rounding it off!

www.rockauto.com has rears for $5.05 and fronts for $6.35 each. Plus you can find 5% codes online...

oldblue1968chevy · 08-17-2009, 09:26 PM

Go to disc if u can afford it!

msgross · 08-17-2009, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Go to disc if u can afford it!

true, but then you have to find spindles, 5-lug rims, and pads and rotors and calipers and hoses and prop valve... If you can get on the road safely for $100 or so then you should be good for awhile...

oldblue1968chevy · 08-17-2009, 09:32 PM

fix the drums and GO DISC ASAP lol

dang lol i threw my old drums away good pads and all i was SICK of those breaks those were DANGEROUS lol i could lockem up and slide............

GMCMAX · 08-17-2009, 11:18 PM

How-to with pictures.....
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=221598

tecky11 · 08-18-2009, 02:49 AM

i can attest to that!!!!! ON MY INTL i had shot wheel cylnders and could stop for ****, with power brakes, got the fixed much better!!!

im tha best · 08-18-2009, 05:28 PM

i changed the brake pads for the drums last night. bled the lines and its way better than it was to begin with not as good as it could be but i feel better about driving it now. im not sure i got out all the air out because i still have to pump the brake a little bit but im sure i got almost all of it out. maybe another bleeding would fix it.

Tynee · 08-18-2009, 06:20 PM

There's a lot of good info here, but I think the most important thing is to get the brakes working properly before upgrading. You may find that you stop well enough with properly function manual drums. You may not feel the need to invest in a booster and stuff.

08-17-2009, 03:49 PM	#1
im tha best Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 68	???? I want the luxery of power brakes but i dont wanna to do a drum to disc converion. So i was wondering if i could install a brake booster and new lines and still run drums? __________________ 68 Chevy C10 long box

08-17-2009, 03:53 PM	#2
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: ???? Yes. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

08-17-2009, 03:57 PM	#3
im tha best Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 68	Re: ???? ok. would that make me go absolutely broke or is it in a reasonable price range for a teenager? __________________ 68 Chevy C10 long box

08-17-2009, 04:09 PM	#4
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: ???? Not sure on the specifics of setting this up. A booster is $100-$150 IIRC. Somebody who's done this will probaly post shortly. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

08-17-2009, 04:14 PM	#5
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: ???? I just did this and a rebuilt booster from Autozone is $100 but you will need the brackets that mount the booster to the firewall and the linkage to connect the booster to the pedal. I bought a used booster set up off Ebay for about $40 and just used the brackets/linkage. Others have used a 73 and later booster with success but I have never done that. You will need to hook up the booster to full manifold vacuum. Use large nipple at base of carb or use a 90 degree fitting in the intake.

08-17-2009, 04:34 PM	#6
im tha best Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 68	Re: ???? ok thanks. All this could be done in a weekend cause its my dd and i cant have it sitting for too long. __________________ 68 Chevy C10 long box

08-17-2009, 05:00 PM	#7
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: ???? It can be done in one morning assuming you have every part needed already. Juts don't remove the master cylinder or break open the brake lines. Just pull the master away from the firewall and bend the hard lines enough to get the booster in. Also, make sure that the hole in the master cylinder piston is shallow enough to accomodate the new pin coming out of the booster. The pin must not push on that piston in a resting state but also cannot have a lot of slack either.

08-17-2009, 05:09 PM	#8
im tha best Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 68	Re: ???? ok. my brothers girlfriend's dad used to be a mechanic and im going over there tonight so he can help me put on the rear brakes that i have yet to do. so when i'm over there, i'll ask him to help me when i get the parts for all this. cause its not a cool thing when youre going up to a stop sign and youre still rolling and your last resort is pulling the e-brake and sliding for ever. thanks for all your help. im going to keep it all in mind. __________________ 68 Chevy C10 long box

08-17-2009, 05:11 PM	#9
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: ???? Manual drums should not be that bad. If they are, you have other problems and the booster may not fix those maladies. May want to bleed your brakes really good and make sure all the wheel cylinders are dry and you have no fluid or grease on the face of the shoes.

08-17-2009, 05:17 PM	#10
im tha best Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 68	Re: ???? ok i'll be sure to do that tonight. what happens if one or more of the wheel cylinders is leaking a little. what would i need to do to fix that and why is it a big deal? __________________ 68 Chevy C10 long box

08-17-2009, 05:18 PM	#11
msgross Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 12,201	Re: ???? good info, i'd get the drums and shoes in good condition first, bleed the system (totally if you can) and see what you got. I had a 69 with drum brakes and wasn't afraid to slam on them to stop.... Search our parts board for brake booster parts and you can always do that upgrade later. I found that you can buy a booster/MC combo from autozone which only cost about $10 more than the booster alone. Don't trust a used booster though, they can rot inside... __________________ The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"

08-17-2009, 05:23 PM	#13
im tha best Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 68	Re: ???? ok. i changed the front brakes myself cause i know a little about what needs to happen but i dont remember the brakes pads getting anything on them or anything. my uncle told me i might need to get the rotors turned or lathed but i havent done that yet. i would like to do everything myself because thats what i want my career to be when i get old so if worst comes to worst i'll take it to a brake shop and get them to fix it. __________________ 68 Chevy C10 long box

08-17-2009, 05:29 PM	#14
msgross Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 12,201	Re: ???? did you put new wheel cylinders on as well? If they look wet and greasy then you should... I understand doing it yourself, I can do disc brakes but haven't played with drums much. BTW you don't have rotors if you have 4 wheel drums... a brake shop can turn the drums to make them round again... __________________ The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"

08-17-2009, 05:34 PM	#15
im tha best Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 68	Re: ???? no i didnt put new wheel cylinders on and they looked just fine. a little dirty but no greese or brake fluid. yea i know, i dont know why i typed rotors. i was thinking about the full brake job that i did on my brothers jeep at the same time that i was typing lol __________________ 68 Chevy C10 long box

08-17-2009, 05:55 PM	#16
oldblue1968chevy Grandpa in the rustmobile... Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN Posts: 11,422	Re: ???? i bought a whole truck for 340$ and converted to power discs on my 68 i was 16 at the time i it took a few days but mostly cause it too so long to get my balljoints out.... go power disc if u can other wise do iwat i did... took booster brakets and pedel rod from donor truck..put on your truck and hook up vacumn also, you have the time and option to take and clean and paint looks lot better good luck and if ya got any ? just ask me i will help ya drive ur truck to school __________________ John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4



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08-17-2009, 07:26 PM	#17
mclairmo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Take Off Posts: 1,908	Re: ???? Leaking wheel cylinders will allow all of your brake fluid to literally leak out leaving you with no or little brake fluid, leading to a catastrophic brake failure. Additionally, they will soak the shoes and the shoes will not operate when soaked with brake fluid. You will lose all braking. I know, it happened to me before. Turning the drums will not really solve your problems. Concentrate on bleeding the brakes well and making sure you have no leaks anywhere and be sure the hoses are in good shape and installed correctly with no kinks or pinched off areas.

08-17-2009, 08:59 PM	#18
msgross Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 12,201	Re: ???? nice thing about new wheel cylinders (besides being able to brake) is being able to turn the bleed screw without rounding it off! www.rockauto.com has rears for $5.05 and fronts for $6.35 each. Plus you can find 5% codes online... __________________ The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"

08-17-2009, 09:26 PM	#19
oldblue1968chevy Grandpa in the rustmobile... Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN Posts: 11,422	Re: ???? Go to disc if u can afford it! __________________ John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

08-17-2009, 09:32 PM	#21
oldblue1968chevy Grandpa in the rustmobile... Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN Posts: 11,422	Re: ???? fix the drums and GO DISC ASAP lol dang lol i threw my old drums away good pads and all i was SICK of those breaks those were DANGEROUS lol i could lockem up and slide............ __________________ John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

08-17-2009, 11:18 PM	#22
GMCMAX Active Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Lower Mid-East Ca. Posts: 326	Re: ???? How-to with pictures..... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=221598 __________________ Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and annoys the pig! Gets More Chicks My lugnuts require more torque than your honda makes! 68 GMC, 4X4 conversion w/73 k20 running gear and springs, 350 4spd, 4.10's, D44 powerlok front, 14BFF govlock rear, 33" tires, lifted 4".

08-18-2009, 02:49 AM	#23
tecky11 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: phoenix,AZ Posts: 451	Re: ???? i can attest to that!!!!! ON MY INTL i had shot wheel cylnders and could stop for ****, with power brakes, got the fixed much better!!!

08-18-2009, 05:28 PM	#24
im tha best Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Irving, Texas Posts: 68	Re: ???? i changed the brake pads for the drums last night. bled the lines and its way better than it was to begin with not as good as it could be but i feel better about driving it now. im not sure i got out all the air out because i still have to pump the brake a little bit but im sure i got almost all of it out. maybe another bleeding would fix it. __________________ 68 Chevy C10 long box

08-18-2009, 06:20 PM	#25
Tynee I miss this truck. Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Lexington, KY U.S.A. Posts: 2,863	Re: ???? There's a lot of good info here, but I think the most important thing is to get the brakes working properly before upgrading. You may find that you stop well enough with properly function manual drums. You may not feel the need to invest in a booster and stuff. __________________ '07 GMC Acadia SLT. Sweet ride. '08 Crew Cab Z-71 short bed. Really like this truck A LOT.

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