I think my Blazer is a hybrid. Need help.

[BLUE THUNDER]

I posted some time ago that my Blazer battery dies every two weeks. So, I jokingly call it my hybrid because I "plug it in" every couple of weeks. I got pissed today and pulled all the fuses to the things I don't use. A/C, radio, heater, and a red wire on the spade connector on the unfused terminal. I've bought a new alternator and voltage regulator, as well as new frame ground and made sure the braided grounds under the hood are bolted down. So wth? What else should I do? Could it be the starter? Are there any other grounds I should check? How else can I diagnose this issue? Btw, new battery as well.

[BLUE THUNDER]

Thanks for all the views, but I really need some feedback.

[litebulblsc]

Did you pull the horn relay?
I think they are problematic

[bouncytruck]

So, are you still having the problem after pulling the fuses? If so, you've ruled all those items out (unless you've got more than one short). Can you tell if there is a draw on the battery while the truck parked? What shape are your wire harnesses? If they've been hacked by PO's (multiple stereos, extra lights, gadgets under the hood, two setups, etc), it might be safest to replace them.

[jojo]

Hey man. Cool meeting you at the junk yard today.

I bet for a hybrid you get really crappy mileage!

Does the battery die only when sitting for 2 weeks? If so I'd check the following:
Electric choke
Horn relay
Accessories or Gauges that are improperly wired (ie to constant battery instead of ignition)

Or does it die even if you're running it?
Mine had Corroded wires/terminals on and around the battery but I couldn't see it until I cut back about 6 inches of the wires

[special-K]

To me it acts like a voltage regulator.Is it still the original segregated set-up?it could be the wiring between or just a bum part.I`m real basic when it comes to electrical.I can only speak from personal experience.i`m going to help you better by moving this to the electrical forum where you should get more than just views.

['68OrangeSunshine]

A problem I had with my '71 Jimmy [K/1500] was the insulation had burned off the fusable link on the drivers side between the EVR [external voltage regulator] and Delcotron and the Bulkhead Connector. This was causing a ground short I noticed when I was ringing out a replacement Cigar Lighter installation. The ground around the circular Lighter shield rang straight to the Positive terminal on the battery. It wasn't hot since the negative cable was disconnected, but I was still surprized. I found it as I ran thru the stops on 12RED2A/ 2B line.

On another truck ['68 C/10] I had low voltage at the Ignition Switch due to half the copper strands on the [same] 12 RED 2 line terminal spade connector going into the Bulkhead. Once I replaced the male spade connector on a short length of fresh red 12 gauge wire and reassembled it into the bulkhead multi, the truck started right up.
By the way, I used to use the handle <<'71BluThndrJimmy>> on the Colorado K/5 website. I havn't been on that site for 10 years, maybe. My Maui Blue '71 GMC had glass packs on a 350, when I first bought it, and was loud as hell.

[BLUE THUNDER]

Dumb question, where's the horn relay? I looked on the fuse box and I didn't see it. I did see one more braided ground under the rt inner fender that needs to be replaced. Any other suggestions?

[Longhorn Man]

If your horn works properly, then don't bother with the horn relay.
Did you look at the electrical FAQ thread at the top of this forum?
There is a thread in there that tells you how to troubleshoot this http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=33198

[imaguywithemail]

Or does it die even if you're running it?
Mine had Corroded wires/terminals on and around the battery but I couldn't see it until I cut back about 6 inches of the wires

my 67 Buick Electra was doin the same thing. I'd drive it and it would die on me and i couldn't figure it out. I replaced the starter when i bought it (was toast) replaced the alternator, battery, traced all my lines (no aftermarket accessories) changed all the fuses, checked all the grounds, cleaned the battery terminals, everything i could think of. Finally what I found out was that the negative cable had corroded halfway up the line. I found out when one day it wasn't starting and i had to go to work, so i hooked up my gf's car with jumper cables and was trying to get it to start and half the negative cable caught fire!! I replaced that and my problem was over.

[BLUE THUNDER]

I got a little help from my dad today and we checked the battery terminal with a test lamp and got no light when we checked the terminals. We got out the meter and noticed that my battery is not charging when the motor is running. We checked the red wire that comes out of the voltage regulator and goes to the little block on the fender and then to the battery. No juice!!!! An inline fuse was broken so i replaced it and still nothing. Wth. Gonna ck my new alt tomorrow and voltage reg. What else shld I ck?

[tecky11]

it is my expierence that inlines dont blow just becasue, they blow from touching metal. double check wiring form voltage reg to alt to batt and grounds, might find your issue. Might not be a bad idea to replace your battery cables

[barthmonster]

Get a simple Volt-Ohm-Meter. There are about $10-$50, depending on how expensive you go. If you unhook Every circuit from the fusebox, then hook up the meter in series with the positive cable (in-between) and have the meter in AMP mode it should read zero current (barring the starter problem you asked about), then hook up 1 circuit at a time until you see an amp-draw...

[Critter]

Hey man, look at this link and give me a call on my cell phone.

Look at the diagram #2 in particular.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856

Actually, just go here...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3645/...c2a8064d_o.jpg

[2003 silverado]

you could also disconnect the + cable and hook up a simple taillight /headlight in series.If its glowing then you have a load on your battery