02-03-2003, 01:01 PM | #1 |
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jc whitney parts ?'s
need some help and advice...my 70 lwb has a wood bed that needs to be replaced. i don't want to do the wood again because i'm going to use it to haul stuff and also want to do a spray-in bedliner (thats a whole other question). jc whitney's new catalog on page 21 shows 1/2 bed repair panels for $84.95 each half plus about $45 shipping to my address, has anyone ordered and installed these before? if so, where they happy with the product? how much trimming did you have to do? any other words of wisdom? thanks. or should i try to find a good bed with metal floor?
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70 LWB, 350/350 A/C, P/S, 3 Tone Paint (white cap, primer gray with black guide coat) |
02-03-2003, 01:16 PM | #2 |
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HOW ABOUT A 4' X 8' SHEET OF 3/16" DIAMOND PLATE? I DID THIS A FEW YEARS BACK, & BOUGHT A SHEET FROM BLUE MOUNTAIN STEEL, HERE IN CARSON FOR AROUND $80.
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02-03-2003, 01:29 PM | #3 |
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I'm not quite sure but i think to change from a wood to steel bed you also have to change the crossmembers
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02-03-2003, 02:13 PM | #4 |
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John's idea of a diamond plate floor is something to be considered. We had one in our truck and it works quite well.
The cross braces will have to be addressed either way you go because the wood thickness has to be accounted for. If it were me and the truck was for hauling I would have 3/4" high channels made up to weld to the cross braces and make an angle for the front panel/ rear brace and throw in a diamond plate. You would have to piece the sides, otherwise, I think that you can still get a 5' x 10' sheet instead of a 4' x 8' and cut to fit. The angles on the bed sides will probably have to be removed, also. Jim |
02-03-2003, 02:33 PM | #5 |
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THANKS!!!
thanks for the replies and advice/options. like everyone, just trying to do it the best way. i think i'll do the sheet metal as suggested
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70 LWB, 350/350 A/C, P/S, 3 Tone Paint (white cap, primer gray with black guide coat) |
02-03-2003, 04:34 PM | #6 |
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Bed floor
I have 1/4 inch diamond plat in my bed.. Mine was a facrory wood bed, and I can say that with a sheet of 4x8 1/4 inch diamond plate steel back there it is a heck of a lot stronger. Another plus was the fact that it came free from dads work... I must say it added quite a bit of weight though. I'm very happy with how it turned out. Spray in liner over top, and over the rail... to hide any imperfectons. In my opinion the bed floor will outlast the rest of the truck.
Cliff
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1972 Custom deluxe 305/350 C/10 8-foot bed with 1/4 inch diamond plate steel bed floor. |
02-04-2003, 10:59 AM | #7 |
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thanks for the replies
again thanks guys, love this board for info and response. do you have any pics of your beds with the metal floors and how you finished them? thanks.
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70 LWB, 350/350 A/C, P/S, 3 Tone Paint (white cap, primer gray with black guide coat) |
02-04-2003, 03:35 PM | #8 |
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here is are few shots of a steel floor, the center sheet isnt layed so you can see the cross sills (2x3x1/8 wall tubing). The outer 1 ft in on ea side is done in 12 guage steel sheet, & all the cross sills are tied together with 2x2x1/8" wall tubing(welded). This was done to take some of the flex out of the @ss end, to help the truck go a little straighter when my foot gets heavy! For weight concerns on my toy, I may lay the center 4', 8 1/2' in 1/8 alum tread plate. I would think 1/8" steel plate would be plenty strong for a hauler..... http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn if your cross sills are in good shape, you could put a 3/4 " shim under all but the end sill, & lay the sheet right on top, or add the steel to the top of the cross sills as mentioned above. Good luck...crazyL
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