pinion seal replacement - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

paintpyro · 02-04-2003, 03:01 PM

Anything to watch out for on a pinion seal replacement? Anyone have any tips for gettin that bolt loose, what size is it anyways? Never done one before, rear is out and on stands. What are the basics? Seal go in dry?

72MARIO · 02-04-2003, 03:39 PM

Make sure you dont collapse the sleve in there that s all I can say Get a manual that will help. impact gun to get it off. Hope this helps a bit.

crazy longhorn · 02-04-2003, 04:13 PM

by rights, you should replace the crush sleeve when you do a seal, but a lot of guys will opt to add a .030-.040 shim between the sleeve & yolk, & pull it back up. There is no tork setting on the nut, but it needs to be tightened to give about 7-9 inch lbs of ROTATING tork on the pinion(oiled with used bearings). It would bea good idea to use blue lock tite on the nut when you reassemble. Good luck....crazyL

Mike C · 02-04-2003, 06:43 PM

The only way to do what crazylonghorn suggests is to disassmeble the diff COMPLETELY. You can only shim and/or replace the crush sleeve if you remove the pinion gear which means removing the ring gear which means removing the axle shafts. All of the guts also have to be out in order to measure the rotating torque on the pinion bearings as well since the diff and ring gear will skew that number. This is not necessary for a pinion seal replacement. Trust me, if you take it to the dealer for a pinion seal replacement, they sure won't! Just remove the yoke, remove the old seal, tap in the new seal, then replace the yoke. Tighten it down until there is no fore/aft play. (actually, there should be none anyhow since the press fit pinion bearings were not disturbed.) DO NOT use an impact...very easy to overcrush the sleeve. If I was guessing, torquing to 40#ft should be good. You can use a pipe wrench to hold the yoke from turning to loosen or tighten. It is a good idea to replace the pinion nut, at minimum re-peen the top with a hammer whack.

crazy longhorn · 02-04-2003, 06:53 PM

Yup, Mike C is right on......that rotating tork figure is to be with the diff completely disassembled....thanks for bringing that up Mike

02-04-2003, 03:01 PM	#1
paintpyro Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Santa Fe Springs, CA,USA Posts: 1,579	pinion seal replacement Anything to watch out for on a pinion seal replacement? Anyone have any tips for gettin that bolt loose, what size is it anyways? Never done one before, rear is out and on stands. What are the basics? Seal go in dry? __________________ 70 shortbed stepside "Schleprock" 350 w/TH400 rallys and BFGs -We can rebuild it, we have the technology-lower,shinier,faster

02-04-2003, 03:39 PM	#2
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,051	Make sure you dont collapse the sleve in there that s all I can say Get a manual that will help. impact gun to get it off. Hope this helps a bit. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

02-04-2003, 04:13 PM	#3
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	by rights, you should replace the crush sleeve when you do a seal, but a lot of guys will opt to add a .030-.040 shim between the sleeve & yolk, & pull it back up. There is no tork setting on the nut, but it needs to be tightened to give about 7-9 inch lbs of ROTATING tork on the pinion(oiled with used bearings). It would bea good idea to use blue lock tite on the nut when you reassemble. Good luck....crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

02-04-2003, 06:43 PM	#4
Mike C Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Austin, TX, USA Posts: 7,728	The only way to do what crazylonghorn suggests is to disassmeble the diff COMPLETELY. You can only shim and/or replace the crush sleeve if you remove the pinion gear which means removing the ring gear which means removing the axle shafts. All of the guts also have to be out in order to measure the rotating torque on the pinion bearings as well since the diff and ring gear will skew that number. This is not necessary for a pinion seal replacement. Trust me, if you take it to the dealer for a pinion seal replacement, they sure won't! Just remove the yoke, remove the old seal, tap in the new seal, then replace the yoke. Tighten it down until there is no fore/aft play. (actually, there should be none anyhow since the press fit pinion bearings were not disturbed.) DO NOT use an impact...very easy to overcrush the sleeve. If I was guessing, torquing to 40#ft should be good. You can use a pipe wrench to hold the yoke from turning to loosen or tighten. It is a good idea to replace the pinion nut, at minimum re-peen the top with a hammer whack. __________________ 44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax

02-04-2003, 06:53 PM	#5
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	Yup, Mike C is right on......that rotating tork figure is to be with the diff completely disassembled....thanks for bringing that up Mike __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....



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