distributer prob - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

67c-20 · 02-08-2003, 09:31 PM

i have a couple of ?

1 why wont my new distributer slide in on #1. it wants to go in two spots ahead of that.

2 are we using the number one post from the points setup or the hei setup.

thanks to anybody who can help.

*Piston* · 02-08-2003, 09:38 PM

Take a long screw driver and rotate the oil pump drive shaft just ahead of the number 1 terminal. Or, while leaving the distributer unplugged have a friend crank it while you push down on the distributer, it will slide in after a few rotations.

NHRA59 · 02-08-2003, 10:05 PM

You can bring your #1 cyl. up on TDC then drop the Dist. in, and make the terminal that the rotor point's to the # 1 spark plug wire.

mtdave2 · 02-08-2003, 11:33 PM

another way is just keep picking up the dist. and setting it back down. it usualy moves 1/8 around every time you do it.. the screw driver works best though

sakohntr · 02-09-2003, 02:16 AM

Piston, you never cease to amaze me. I never thought of cranking it over while pushing down on the distributor. It will still be on the correct tooth and drop down on the oil pump drive once it lines up. thanks for the tip. one guy could even do this with a remote start button.

crazy longhorn · 02-09-2003, 03:09 AM

when Im working alone(usually), I use the method that mtdave2 described.....you just have to play with the dist a bit , & if you go past your mark......pick it up & turn it 180 & set it in, then play with it(in /out) till you hit the spot. crazyL

*Piston* · 02-09-2003, 11:50 AM

lol sakohntr glad I could help

CrazyL, thats how I used to do it at the track when something goes wrong... Its somewhat hard to describe though.
If the dist is out of place, restab the dist till you can find a spot it will slide all the way in and still be closest to #1 terminal on the cap. Once you find that spot pull the dist and rotate 190 degrees (180 plus one tooth) forward each time you pull the dist. This will "walk" the oil pump drive around until you eventually get the rotor pointing to #1. Once you get the hang of this method its quicker than any other (IMHO). One thing to be sure of when using the cranking method.. make sure you hold that dist down. It will slide up and out if the oil pump begins to have resistance.

ozarkhippie · 02-09-2003, 12:00 PM

I took a old dist. cap and cut no. 1 term. out and made a hole there so I can see how the rotor phases to the no. 1 terminal. When I don't have any help around I do the holding the dist. down while cranking the engine but I use the dist. hold down to hold presure on the dist.

mikep · 02-09-2003, 01:13 PM

I usually use the

"drop it wherever it lands , use that for #1 then clockwise 18436572 from there "

method . I find it save a lot of useless agravation and it fires every time.

crazy longhorn · 02-09-2003, 02:02 PM

Yup, that Chev doesnt really care where #1 starts, & I have done it that way also.......where I have seen the aggrivation start is when you pull it , & stab it back in .......only to find that you need to move the plug wires, & they are too short to reach on the new position of the dist

crazyL

02-08-2003, 11:33 PM	#4
mtdave2 newly minted old timer Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Hudson WI Posts: 3,526	another way is just keep picking up the dist. and setting it back down. it usualy moves 1/8 around every time you do it.. the screw driver works best though __________________ ____________________________________________ 72 c20 longhorn 65k org miles and counting! 69 k10 Suburban

02-09-2003, 02:16 AM	#5
sakohntr Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Floodwood Minnesota Posts: 1,057	well god damn Piston, you never cease to amaze me. I never thought of cranking it over while pushing down on the distributor. It will still be on the correct tooth and drop down on the oil pump drive once it lines up. thanks for the tip. one guy could even do this with a remote start button. __________________ 1967 K30 Napco 292/SM420 original paint 30k miles 1968 K60 Napco 396/5spd. dbl frame 52" michelins 1969 K10 SWB GMC 454/4spd 6" 35's posi,hooks 1972 C30 longhorn,BB/AT,A/C,Tilt,Toolbox,lokr 1987 K20 Chevrolet Suburban. 6" lift. 5.7L/TH400 1979 K60 GMC Coleman 4x4, 427/Allison.

02-09-2003, 03:09 AM	#6
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	when Im working alone(usually), I use the method that mtdave2 described.....you just have to play with the dist a bit , & if you go past your mark......pick it up & turn it 180 & set it in, then play with it(in /out) till you hit the spot. crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

02-09-2003, 12:00 PM	#8
ozarkhippie Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Eureka Springs AR Posts: 494	I took a old dist. cap and cut no. 1 term. out and made a hole there so I can see how the rotor phases to the no. 1 terminal. When I don't have any help around I do the holding the dist. down while cranking the engine but I use the dist. hold down to hold presure on the dist. __________________ Buy Sale or Trade 71 3/4 4x4 72 1/2 ton cheyenne 4x4

02-09-2003, 01:13 PM	#9
mikep Used to have a truck Join Date: May 2002 Location: port orchard WA Posts: 1,552	I usually use the "drop it wherever it lands , use that for #1 then clockwise 18436572 from there " method . I find it save a lot of useless agravation and it fires every time. __________________ No truck :-( Last edited by mikep; 02-09-2003 at 01:15 PM.

02-08-2003, 09:31 PM	#1
67c-20 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: dillsburg pa Posts: 115	distributer prob i have a couple of ? 1 why wont my new distributer slide in on #1. it wants to go in two spots ahead of that. 2 are we using the number one post from the points setup or the hei setup. thanks to anybody who can help. __________________ 67 k-20 w/327 and a 3speed and 4.57 rear with 17 inch split rims and 9 inch wide rubber(is my current project) 73 blazer 6 inch all spring lift 350/350 with crappy 3.08 gears and 35 inch bfg tires. just put out 135 hp to the wheels on the dyno. 54 chevy delray .060 over 250 i-6 which was taken from my first truck(68 gmc). it is next in line for a rebuild

02-08-2003, 09:38 PM	#2
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,300	Take a long screw driver and rotate the oil pump drive shaft just ahead of the number 1 terminal. Or, while leaving the distributer unplugged have a friend crank it while you push down on the distributer, it will slide in after a few rotations.

02-08-2003, 10:05 PM	#3
NHRA59 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Orlando,Fl Posts: 11	You can bring your #1 cyl. up on TDC then drop the Dist. in, and make the terminal that the rotor point's to the # 1 spark plug wire.

02-09-2003, 11:50 AM	#7
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,300	lol sakohntr glad I could help CrazyL, thats how I used to do it at the track when something goes wrong... Its somewhat hard to describe though. If the dist is out of place, restab the dist till you can find a spot it will slide all the way in and still be closest to #1 terminal on the cap. Once you find that spot pull the dist and rotate 190 degrees (180 plus one tooth) forward each time you pull the dist. This will "walk" the oil pump drive around until you eventually get the rotor pointing to #1. Once you get the hang of this method its quicker than any other (IMHO). One thing to be sure of when using the cranking method.. make sure you hold that dist down. It will slide up and out if the oil pump begins to have resistance.

02-09-2003, 02:02 PM	#10
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,402	Yup, that Chev doesnt really care where #1 starts, & I have done it that way also.......where I have seen the aggrivation start is when you pull it , & stab it back in .......only to find that you need to move the plug wires, & they are too short to reach on the new position of the dist crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....



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