Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ubtripn · 07-10-2010, 12:43 PM

Hi guys,

Please forgive my newbie question here but I am removing my intake manifold to extract a broken bolt and have a question about the distributor. (It is HEI) I have removed the cap but have stopped there after marking the distributor cap position and the rotor position. I am ready to take it out, is the a bolt I need to remove or will it just lift out?

Sinister · 07-10-2010, 12:50 PM

There's a hold down with a single bolt on the intake at the base of the distributor that has to be loosened or removed.

ubtripn · 07-10-2010, 01:26 PM

I thought so, thanks! (Just wanted to be sure.)

Davetopay · 07-10-2010, 01:29 PM

As you pull it up you should mark where the rotor turns to as well while pulling it. It will move off the mark you already made because of the helix cut into the drive gear, Marking the second position will help you get it back in place without being off by a tooth.

ubtripn · 07-10-2010, 01:32 PM

Great advice, thanks.

ubtripn · 07-10-2010, 01:44 PM

I removed the water hose that connects to the water pump from the heater core to drain the antifreeze. (I also opened up the spicket on the bottom of the radiator.) Will this be enough to get the water level low enough?

Sinister · 07-10-2010, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ubtripn

I removed the water hose that connects to the water pump from the heater core to drain the antifreeze. (I also opened up the spicket on the bottom of the radiator.) Will this be enough to get the water level low enough?

That'll do it.

ubtripn · 07-10-2010, 01:52 PM

Thanks!

geezer#99 · 07-10-2010, 01:58 PM

A couple tips for you.
Disconnect the battery. Just for safety reasons.
Don't move the crank or you'll be retiming the motor.
If it's a cast iron manifold make sure you're lifting it from an easy position. They're heavy.
Have fun!!!

ubtripn · 07-10-2010, 02:18 PM

Good tips, thanks again.

**El Jay** · 07-10-2010, 02:35 PM

Before you start scraping the old gaskets off, be sure to cover the valley and the intake ports on the heads to keep from getting crud down in your engine.

When everything is all buttoned up, an oil & filter change isn't a bad idea, just in case you got some coolant down in the oil.

**mr48chev** · 07-10-2010, 03:14 PM

You got some good advice there, especially on changing the oil and filter after you get it back together.

Being careful to mark the location of the rotor and the location of the distributor and not bumping the engine over helps when you go to put it back together and have it close enough to being in time for it to start and run so you can get the timing light on it but it is in no way a panic situation if you have to start over and put it in time.

If you haven't pulled it yet one trick that I learned years ago is to bring #1 cylinder up on compression and line up the timing marks before you pull the distributor. That alone saves some guess work. And have the rotor pointing at #1 on the cap. Then use something on the distributor as a reference point as compared to something on the engine. The easy one is to note exactly where and what the vacuum advance points at.

If that doesn't work when you get it back together

Pull #1 plug (front one on the drivers side) and have a helper bump the engine over with the key while you hold your finger over the spark plug hole.
When it pops against your finger check the mark and make sure that the mark on the dampener is lined up with the mark on the timing tab. Sometimes it takes the best of us several tries to get it where we want it. Then drop the distributor back in with the rotor pointing toward the #1 spot on the cap.

Make sure that you put the gasket back on the distributor before you put it back in the engine.

fdbdw · 07-10-2010, 07:31 PM

I like to use a lazer light, line it up with the rotor then make a mark on the fire wall and one somewere in front of the dizzy, then when you put it back in you line up all three with the lazer light and theres no question your right on

Legolas894 · 07-11-2010, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fdbdw

I like to use a lazer light, line it up with the rotor then make a mark on the fire wall and one somewere in front of the dizzy, then when you put it back in you line up all three with the lazer light and theres no question your right on

Cool tip-I'll try that too when I take mine off.

ubtripn · 07-10-2010, 07:52 PM

Man, you guys are smart, thanks for the help.

07-10-2010, 12:50 PM	#2
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! There's a hold down with a single bolt on the intake at the base of the distributor that has to be loosened or removed. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

07-10-2010, 01:26 PM	#3
ubtripn Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 1,280	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! I thought so, thanks! (Just wanted to be sure.)

07-10-2010, 01:29 PM	#4
Davetopay Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Leesburg, VA Posts: 424	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! As you pull it up you should mark where the rotor turns to as well while pulling it. It will move off the mark you already made because of the helix cut into the drive gear, Marking the second position will help you get it back in place without being off by a tooth.

07-10-2010, 01:32 PM	#5
ubtripn Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 1,280	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! Great advice, thanks.

07-10-2010, 01:44 PM	#6
ubtripn Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 1,280	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! I removed the water hose that connects to the water pump from the heater core to drain the antifreeze. (I also opened up the spicket on the bottom of the radiator.) Will this be enough to get the water level low enough?

07-10-2010, 12:43 PM	#1
ubtripn Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 1,280	Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! Hi guys, Please forgive my newbie question here but I am removing my intake manifold to extract a broken bolt and have a question about the distributor. (It is HEI) I have removed the cap but have stopped there after marking the distributor cap position and the rotor position. I am ready to take it out, is the a bolt I need to remove or will it just lift out?

07-10-2010, 01:52 PM	#8
ubtripn Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 1,280	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! Thanks!

07-10-2010, 01:58 PM	#9
geezer#99 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Bowser Posts: 13,749	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! A couple tips for you. Disconnect the battery. Just for safety reasons. Don't move the crank or you'll be retiming the motor. If it's a cast iron manifold make sure you're lifting it from an easy position. They're heavy. Have fun!!!

07-10-2010, 02:18 PM	#10
ubtripn Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 1,280	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! Good tips, thanks again.

07-10-2010, 02:35 PM	#11
El Jay Gone to greener pastures Join Date: May 2007 Location: Gateway to the Delta Posts: 7,354	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! Before you start scraping the old gaskets off, be sure to cover the valley and the intake ports on the heads to keep from getting crud down in your engine. When everything is all buttoned up, an oil & filter change isn't a bad idea, just in case you got some coolant down in the oil. Attached Images __________________ '69 Chevy 1/2 T LWB Stepper: Daily Beater '72 GMC 3/4 T Fleet: Another Daily Beater '72 Plymouth Gran Coupe: ? "Ah women. They make the highs higher and the lows more frequent." Friedrich Nietzsche "Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day." Harry S. Truman GUN CONTROL: Never having to say, "I missed you." Always fire two warning shots into your attacker's chest area before putting a bullet between his eyes. Paraphrased from Louis Awerbuck

07-10-2010, 03:14 PM	#12
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,731	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! You got some good advice there, especially on changing the oil and filter after you get it back together. Being careful to mark the location of the rotor and the location of the distributor and not bumping the engine over helps when you go to put it back together and have it close enough to being in time for it to start and run so you can get the timing light on it but it is in no way a panic situation if you have to start over and put it in time. If you haven't pulled it yet one trick that I learned years ago is to bring #1 cylinder up on compression and line up the timing marks before you pull the distributor. That alone saves some guess work. And have the rotor pointing at #1 on the cap. Then use something on the distributor as a reference point as compared to something on the engine. The easy one is to note exactly where and what the vacuum advance points at. If that doesn't work when you get it back together Pull #1 plug (front one on the drivers side) and have a helper bump the engine over with the key while you hold your finger over the spark plug hole. When it pops against your finger check the mark and make sure that the mark on the dampener is lined up with the mark on the timing tab. Sometimes it takes the best of us several tries to get it where we want it. Then drop the distributor back in with the rotor pointing toward the #1 spot on the cap. Make sure that you put the gasket back on the distributor before you put it back in the engine.

07-10-2010, 07:31 PM	#13
fdbdw Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: colorado springs Posts: 479	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! I like to use a lazer light, line it up with the rotor then make a mark on the fire wall and one somewere in front of the dizzy, then when you put it back in you line up all three with the lazer light and theres no question your right on

07-10-2010, 07:52 PM	#15
ubtripn Registered User Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 1,280	Re: Removing 350 intake manifold - need help! Man, you guys are smart, thanks for the help.



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