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02-24-2003, 01:18 PM | #1 |
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Engine problems (Not Chevy)
It was pretty cold last night and frosted over this morning.
When my husband went out to start up his Mitsubishi Eclipse it didn't want to start. Since it's my husband's baby, he didn't want to do anything to hurt it so that's when I jumped in and got it started since I'm not really that fond of the car. It was acting like it wasn't getting gas and in order to get it to start I had to pump the gas a few times as I was turning the key. To keep it running, I had to continue to give it gas and keep it revved up around 1500 rpms otherwise the rpms would drop and it would try to stall. It only took about a minute of me keeping the rpms up like this until I was able to take my foot off the gas and it would run fine. Here are some details about the car: Fuel Injected of course Turbo 16 valve DOHC 2.0 Liter One of my husband's weak points when it comes to his vehicles is he doesn't let them warm up enough before he drives them. He'll start it and let it sit for a minute or two and then he's off. I know this isn't good for the engine, have told him so, and I've been waiting for something like this to happen. Could the injectors need cleaning? I've seen treatments that are supposed to clean the injectors but with it being a turbo I know some of that stuff can mess them up. The car is due for it's 30k mile tune up as well. Any ideas on what could be happening and what we can do to fix it?
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ChevyChic 86 Chevy K-10 If I can't be a good example, then I'll just have to be a horrible warning. "You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think" - Christopher Robin |
02-24-2003, 01:55 PM | #2 |
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For $5 you can change the plugs, you might be surprised.
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02-24-2003, 01:58 PM | #3 |
yeller
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Heather, not sure about the problem but I do know pumping the gas pedal on a FI vehicle like that is not good at all.
I am curious to know the answer as well. -Jeff |
02-24-2003, 02:07 PM | #4 |
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The problem is the lack of chevy-ness in the vehicle. No im just kidding, I have no idea either. It runs fine once its warmed up? Maybe some sort of sensor, does it do it everyday now, or only on the really really cold days?
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02-24-2003, 02:36 PM | #5 |
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Eddie, This is the first time it has done it so I'm not sure if it'll do it everyday. And it was fine once it warmed up a bit.
Jeff, I know that pumping the gas on FI vehicles is not good. This is why I know there is a problem and am trying to resolve it asap. If it happens again tomorrow, I will most likely be driving him to work because I don't want to start it that way again.
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ChevyChic 86 Chevy K-10 If I can't be a good example, then I'll just have to be a horrible warning. "You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think" - Christopher Robin |
02-24-2003, 03:08 PM | #6 |
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the fact that you had to pump the pedal to get any gas is completely contrary to a normal operating function of a fuel-injectd engine. definitely go ove the fuel delivery system(fuel pump or line probs), air intake system (intake hose/vacuum probs), and injection system and seek out any possible infirmities in those systems. while you're doing that, just do a quick tune up and make sure all else is in proper specs. (ie spark plugs gapped right, plug wires not damaged, battery charged fully, alternator functioning properly, etc.)
good luck! |
02-24-2003, 06:34 PM | #7 |
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I'm gonna move this to the GD board. I know a couple of guys there are in the "feild".
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02-24-2003, 06:44 PM | #8 |
BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe!
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i would go to http://www.dsm.org/ and ask the same question.. Im sure they could answer it quick
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02-24-2003, 09:06 PM | #9 |
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sounds like mybe a map sensor,or could be just worn plugs....
like gapidess....is there a check engine lite on.......if not prolly just time for a good tune up,plugs wire set cap roter,fuel filter and air. if it was injectors it prolly bother all the time. putting the gas peddle to floor on fuel injected engines just puts it in clear flood mode.you really not goin to do any damage to it. but i would pull a plug or 2 and have a look see. good luck
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02-24-2003, 10:31 PM | #10 |
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A friend's grand am did the same thing, and that's what I had to do to get it started and stay running, and it was fuel injected. Usually if you don't dare pump the gas to try and start it injected cars.
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02-24-2003, 11:15 PM | #11 |
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Well I was going to give my truck a tune up this weekend so I'm going to go ahead and do the car at the same time. Hopefully that'll clear this problem up.
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ChevyChic 86 Chevy K-10 If I can't be a good example, then I'll just have to be a horrible warning. "You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think" - Christopher Robin |
02-24-2003, 11:40 PM | #12 |
Led Sled! Discs R 4 ME!
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Be sure to change the fuel filter with your tune-up.
It may be very dirty with some moisture in it. |
02-25-2003, 12:52 AM | #13 |
its all about the +6 inches
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I'm thinking mostly tune up things here...fuel filter, air filter and plugs.
As for starting a FI engine and pumping the gas... When a FI engine is running properly, it will inject enough fuel to start it. However, if the engine is being starved for fuel...like with a dirty filter, then a little added fuel helps. It's when you pump it over and over that you'll flood it out. One thing though...if a simple tune up don't help, and you only have 30K on the clock....I'll asume it stall has a waranty on it. If so, and it still acts up after new plugs and filters...time to see your friendly dealer who will smile as he takes your $$ from you. |
02-25-2003, 01:07 AM | #14 |
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I'll throw my 2 cents in just in case
Imports, specificly Honda's and Mistubishi have a tough time with cold starts on semi worn plugs. If the gap of the plug is higher than .050 it will tend to flood on extremely cold days. I'm with these guys, Check those plugs (change them since they're out) As for the fuel filter, YES, change it too. Be ready for a challange though, if its a 94 and older your ok, they are located on the passenger firewall and pretty easy to change. If its 95+ they are a PITA to get to. Usually have to remove the battery and washer bottle to gain access. Pumping the gas in a FI engine does nothing if its not running, you can pump till your leg falls of and your only opening and closing the throttle blade , While its running it's only adding small amounts of extra fuel which is enough to keep it running in your case, dont worry about hurting anything. Oh, one mroe thing to check.... When your checking the air filter, make sure there are no cracks in the intake boot (rubber boot going from the air box to the throttle body), These like to crack on the bottem side close to the throttle body area (about 5 inches back) If this happens 100% of the air is not being drawn across the airflow meter and will send inaccurate readings to the ECU (electronic control unit). Basicly it will act exactly like what your describing. But check the plugs first, you'll be amazed at what a new set will do. ALmost forgot... These also had a tough time with the idle air control motor. If its running ok but just doesnt like to idle, try tapping on the small cylinder just to the rear of the throttle body. Sometimes its enough to jar the motor and make it work quickly. If this works, let me know and I will describe how to clean the TB and IACM. Last edited by Piston; 02-25-2003 at 01:11 AM. |
02-26-2003, 12:08 AM | #15 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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And if the rubber is tearing on the intake...make sure you replace it for safety reasons too...I had a chunk of rubber get sucked into the throttle body on my wife's S-10 Blazer and it blocked the throttle at about 1/2 throttle.
kinda scarey being I was down town columbus and the back tires just start spinning madly. |
02-26-2003, 02:29 PM | #16 |
Now the others dig........
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Hmm.....sorry to butt in......BUT
my brother has a carburated 87 honda civic, would gapping or changing the plugs allow for less warm up time?? Also if it is not warmed up it will shift very hard from park to reverse...any ideas????? I think this hard shift is due to the larger difference in RPMs when the engine is cold??? Or could this be a transmission problem.
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02-26-2003, 02:35 PM | #17 |
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SWINGSAX68, Does it seem like it takes it a while to release the choke? High idle for extended period of time? There's a possibility of binding/sticking choke linkage and or a bad choke coil. The Shifting problem would be directly related to the high idle. Higher the idle, the more harsh engagment will be.
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02-26-2003, 05:31 PM | #18 |
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Hey fellow DSMer I've had two 1Gen DSM and two 2Gen. Everyone's pointed you in the right direction fuel filter needs to be changed but before ya change it run a bottle of fuel system cleaner (Chevron or Redline makes the best fuel system cleaners in my opinion) after you got threw the tank of gas with the additive then change the filter dew to the cleaner removes deposits stuck in your tank. Then I would look towards the pump relay
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02-26-2003, 05:35 PM | #19 |
Now the others dig........
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Piston,
hmmmm.....sounds like a reasonable conclusion, we'll take a look at it today
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68 Chevy C10 Stepside Black Primer 78 GMC Longbed White 09 Chevy Silverado Shortbed Granite Blue LOOKING FOR A 67 4 DOOR IMPALA!!!Just like Sam and Dean Winchester!! 'Cause Mustangs are for p^**#$ and you can fit a body in the trunk of a 67 Impala MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Bachelor of Music in Jazz Studies Texas State University-San Marcos, TX Certified Music Educator I hope Mom is up there watching and being my Guardian Angel "I've got a fever.....and the only prescription.....IS MORE COW BELL" -The Legendary: Bruce Dickenson "F#$@ 'em up!!!!!!" -The Legendary: Rogelio Escobar TRUCKY LINKS http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457750 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461184 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472848 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417541 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=477788 |
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