Top 10 Must Have Tools

[Hanky]

Howdy from Texas! I cant thank everyone enough for sharing their knowledge here. It has helped me, being the greenhorn that I am, tremendously. Being new to bodywork and mechanics, I need to outfit my workshop with some new gear. I used the search function and didn't find anything like this so here goes. Being new to all aspects of restoration, what do you consider the top 10 most important tools one needs to have on hand to start the process effectively. Once again thanks to everyone in advance.

Hanky the newb

[CVA59]

For my shop:

1. Air Compressor
2. Bench Vise
3. Drill Press
4. Welding Machine
5. Cutting Torch
6. Floor Jack w/ good stands
7. Engine hoist
8. Good selection of Sockets, Wrenches, etc.
9. Square, Level, Tape Measure
10. 4-1/2" Grinder

Just my 2 cents worth but without these tools i could not get anything done as i am sure you would agree. Don't forget to ALWAYS have a Fire Extinguisher within an arms reach too.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
flings your soda across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained
heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and
hard-earned guitar callouses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,
'Yeouw....'

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age, or for perforating something behind and beyond
the original intended target object.

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. Caution: Avoid using for manicures.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built for frustration enhancement.
It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the
more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the
conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or
1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle
firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 4X4: Used for levering an automobile upward
off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most
shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength
of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the
handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called
a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, 'the sunshine vitamin,'
which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its
main purpose is to consume 40- watt light bulbs at about the same rate that
105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the
Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading. The accessory socket within the base, has been permanently rendered
useless, unless requiring a source of 117vac power to shock the mechanic
senseless.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under
lids, opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your
shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw
heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to
convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels
by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact gun that grips rusty bolts which
were last over tightened 40 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds
off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to
the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on
contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector
magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially
useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. It is also useful for
removing large chunks of human flesh from the user's hands.

DAMMIT TOOL: (I have lot's of these) Any handy tool that you grab and
throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It
is also, most often, the next tool that you will need after a really big
hammer

Sorry, I just couldn't resist

[TR65]

I would add:

My very best piece of equipment is a heavy steel work bench (1/2" steel plate top). Weighs several hundred pounds. Bolt the bench vise to that, and get a good large one, Columbian brand if they still make them.

TR

[jocko]

My favorite tool on the planet = that silly little three-pronged ignition switch bezel removal tool that i never can find when i need it and end up whackin it with two screwdrivers in opposite directions, which works, but if not done perfectly results in a screwdriver inadvertently through the instrument lens....

Yeah, that's my favorite tool. And a hammer.

Maybe I'll bunjee cord it to my drill press chuck key so I don't lose it! I NEVER lose that. Either.

[Hanky]

I can see that I am in for a long ride. Damn, a newb is in way too deep. Please carry on........

[Chevy Fleetside]

Duct Tape....

[ol_skool_chevy]

1. Pressure Washer
2. Floor jack
3. 6" cut off wheel
4. Impact wrench
5. Saws all
6. Socket set
7. Screw Driver set
8. Mig welder
9. DA sander
10. SAFETY GLOVES AND GLASSES !!!!!

[fryer1979]

Originally Posted by CVA59

For my shop:

1. Air Compressor
2. Bench Vise
3. Drill Press
4. Welding Machine
5. Cutting Torch
6. Floor Jack w/ good stands
7. Engine hoist
8. Good selection of Sockets, Wrenches, etc.
9. Square, Level, Tape Measure
10. 4-1/2" Grinder

Just my 2 cents worth but without these tools i could not get anything done as i am sure you would agree. Don't forget to ALWAYS have a Fire Extinguisher within an arms reach too.

Pretty much this. I just want to add in with the compressor; a good selection of air tools.

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
flings your soda across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained
heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and
hard-earned guitar callouses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,
'Yeouw....'

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age, or for perforating something behind and beyond
the original intended target object.

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. Caution: Avoid using for manicures.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built for frustration enhancement.
It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the
more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the
conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or
1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle
firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 4X4: Used for levering an automobile upward
off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most
shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength
of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the
handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called
a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, 'the sunshine vitamin,'
which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its
main purpose is to consume 40- watt light bulbs at about the same rate that
105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the
Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading. The accessory socket within the base, has been permanently rendered
useless, unless requiring a source of 117vac power to shock the mechanic
senseless.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under
lids, opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your
shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw
heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to
convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels
by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact gun that grips rusty bolts which
were last over tightened 40 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds
off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to
the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on
contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector
magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially
useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. It is also useful for
removing large chunks of human flesh from the user's hands.

DAMMIT TOOL: (I have lot's of these) Any handy tool that you grab and
throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It
is also, most often, the next tool that you will need after a really big
hammer

Sorry, I just couldn't resist

Dam that's funny. I know the perfect place to post that. Thanks for the laugh...at least the sprayed diet coke doesn't turn into a sticky mess if I don't get to it all in time.

PAPER TOWELL: A paper cloth very useful for turning a neatly contained pool of spilled liquid into random drops all over your shop floor between said pool and the trash can you can't seem to find.

[63rexC10]

Thanks for the laugh, great post

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
flings your soda across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained
heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and
hard-earned guitar callouses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,
'Yeouw....'

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age, or for perforating something behind and beyond
the original intended target object.

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. Caution: Avoid using for manicures.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built for frustration enhancement.
It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the
more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the
conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or
1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle
firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 4X4: Used for levering an automobile upward
off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most
shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength
of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the
handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called
a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, 'the sunshine vitamin,'
which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its
main purpose is to consume 40- watt light bulbs at about the same rate that
105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the
Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading. The accessory socket within the base, has been permanently rendered
useless, unless requiring a source of 117vac power to shock the mechanic
senseless.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under
lids, opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your
shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw
heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to
convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels
by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact gun that grips rusty bolts which
were last over tightened 40 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds
off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to
the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on
contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector
magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially
useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. It is also useful for
removing large chunks of human flesh from the user's hands.

DAMMIT TOOL: (I have lot's of these) Any handy tool that you grab and
throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It
is also, most often, the next tool that you will need after a really big
hammer

Sorry, I just couldn't resist

[old cruiser]

When you,ve got what you think you need from above or have access to, the best tools and most important are common sense and patience.

[javadoc]

You can pretty much disassemble your truck with a 9/16" box end. What else would you need?

[irish1966]

All below are for removing the old rusty bolts etc....

Brass Hammer
Benzo torch
PB Blaster
Sawzall
Safety Equip (glasses/earplugs/Respirator gloves etc.)

Both me and OL Skool can vouch for the Safety stuff. I ground the tip of my finger and Ol Skool tried to remove his finger. Thats a pic he should post for ya. LOL

[irish1966]

In all seriousness........Harbor freight will be your friend for the following items:

Sanding disks
Paint removal wheels (looks like a coral disk $5 at harbor, $16 everywhere else)
Clamps Both magnetic and locking
Spot weld drill ($4 bucks at HF)
A cheap welder if u really don't have the money to buy a decent one
Sawzall ($20 at HF. Mine did everything i needed and is still going strong)
4" angle grinders ($20 at HF and theyre disposable LOL)
Electric Impact gun ($50 at HF and mine is a champ)
Impact socket set
If ur gonna stick with Drums get a Brake tool kit
Bench Vice
Wire Wheels are cheap at HF
Jack stands (bought mine at Bi-Mart and they are good ones)
Screwdriver set
Ratcheting wrenches (bought at Costco $20)
A good set of Drill bits
Electric Drill / Batt Drill
A good Head lamp
Compressor and associated tools (blower/Cut off tool/paint guns etc. )

I just built up the stuff I have over a while. I figured I could allow myself a tool per paycheck and I did it that way. Some times I just had to get em coz I really needed em to complete a task. Go on line and print urself off the %20 off coupons for Harbor and that will help.

[ol_skool_chevy]

I love the Harbor Frieght 6 inch disk Grinder but we have been using cut off wheels with No gaurd....NOT SMART. My good luck turned bad one day and ran the cut off wheel through my finger all the way to the Bone. I was a combat medic so I threw in a few stitches there in the Gargage....so add Stitching Kit to the List of TOP TOOLS...

[AZ66GMC]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

I love the Harbor Frieght 6 inch disk Grinder but we have been using cut off wheels with No gaurd....NOT SMART. My good luck turned bad one day and ran the cut off wheel through my finger all the way to the Bone. I was a combat medic so I threw in a few stitches there in the Gargage....so add Stitching Kit to the List of TOP TOOLS...

Nice patch job!

I could have used your skills a few times



Tony
Posted via Mobile Device

[glendale]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

I love the Harbor Frieght 6 inch disk Grinder but we have been using cut off wheels with No gaurd....NOT SMART. My good luck turned bad one day and ran the cut off wheel through my finger all the way to the Bone. I was a combat medic so I threw in a few stitches there in the Gargage....so add Stitching Kit to the List of TOP TOOLS...

yea leave the guard on!

[Sillyoldman]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

I love the Harbor Frieght 6 inch disk Grinder but we have been using cut off wheels with No gaurd....NOT SMART. My good luck turned bad one day and ran the cut off wheel through my finger all the way to the Bone. I was a combat medic so I threw in a few stitches there in the Gargage....so add Stitching Kit to the List of TOP TOOLS...

How on earth did you tie them? Looks like someone else here could have used your help.

[SIR]

#1...EDUCATION!!! you can sharpen your skills by attending your local community college and take a welding course,and PRACTICE..PRACTICE...PRACTICE..that's some of the best money you will ever spend...

[DubDubU]

fridge full of beer!!!!!!!!!

[Frizzle Fry]

Tap and die sets go a long way when dealing with rusty old hardware.

[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Tap and die sets go a long way when dealing with rusty old hardware.

I agree......its not in my top ten tools but your right A good tap set is a big help

[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by glendale

yea leave the guard on!

Ya need me to come over and do some Stitches glendale . hahahahahaha....mine was maybe deeper but yours is impressive...
nice to know someone other then me is that stupid..welcome to the Club

[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by Sillyoldman

How on earth did you tie them? Looks like someone else here could have used your help.

left handed....hahahaha

[LostMy65]

I need to get me the correct tool for the knob bezel nut removal.
Also a Steering wheel pulling tool.
Also a miner's headlamp.