suspension question

[1971ls1longbed]

i would like some input on my suspension. i want my 71 longbed to handle like its on rails. its being powered by a turbo ls1 t56 and ford 9". is there anyone here that has done this with there suspension and if so where can i get good suspension.the engine is making about 800hp at the crank

[Scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by 1971ls1longbed

i would like some input on my suspension. i want my 71 longbed to handle like its on rails. its being powered by a turbo ls1 t56 and ford 9". is there anyone here that has done this with there suspension and if so where can i get good suspension.the engine is making about 800hp at the crank

Take a look at our products www.scottshotrods.com
Justin

[robnolimit]

There are many good IFS kits on the market. Our No Limit Wide Ride is good if you are thinking about changing the complete IFS. Just a note, You give up a lot of handling capability right from the start with the long bed. Front/rear weight balance also suffers. The rear trailing arm is very workable. check out some of the discussions in the "make it handle' thread.

[1971ls1longbed]

i know i give up some handling with the lwb but i know i can still surprise alot of people. i did read that post and i did get alot from it. but i would like to know what the best trailing arm and panhard rod setup is.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 1971ls1longbed

i know i give up some handling with the lwb but i know i can still surprise alot of people. i did read that post and i did get alot from it. but i would like to know what the best trailing arm and panhard rod setup is.

Stock truck arms work well as is w/the addition of some poly bushings up front. Porterbuilts truck arms offer better torsional stiffness for minimal deflection while allowing as much as or more articulation w/out binding & are adjustable for length to get everything as square as possible (another commonly overlooked item). I really like his Panhard bar set-up too as it's adjustable w/o removing.

http://porterbuiltstreetrods.com/site/

[jephs422]

There are several guys running our front suspension and rear suspension that compete in autocross events around the country, and the reports are very good from the guys that have the rubber on the ground.

Check out the link that Scottshotrods posted and browse around a bit.

[robnolimit]

The key with these trucks is to get enough caster to make them turn in. You need to be in the 6 to 10 deg range, or all the other stuff won't matter. Next is rear bite, focus on a long, low mounted panhard rod. Big swawbars and soft springs will do you better on the street than stiff springs and reg. swaybars. Spend on shocks. Bilstien inertia-valve is the minimun, or step up to single or double adjustable. When dropping the rear on trailing arms, start with a 2" block first, then shorter spring to get what you want. This will ride & handle better.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

The key with these trucks is to get enough caster to make them turn in. You need to be in the 6 to 10 deg range, or all the other stuff won't matter. Next is rear bite, focus on a long, low mounted panhard rod. Big swawbars and soft springs will do you better on the street than stiff springs and reg. swaybars. Spend on shocks. Bilstien inertia-valve is the minimun, or step up to single or double adjustable. When dropping the rear on trailing arms, start with a 2" block first, then shorter spring to get what you want. This will ride & handle better.

Good info & it pertains to the orignal posters question about what he currently has vs. telling him to swap everything to new, different stuff.