1960 crossmember swap

[moovinmetal]

Can someone post the link on the 1960 crossmember swap to a 1973-87 also 350 v-8 mount pics. Thanks Jack

[markeb01]

Welcome to the forum. Here you go:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366850

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=369663

[moovinmetal]

Thanks, I just sat the frame on the donor member tonight I did not mark the old xmember position when removing. Oops. Hope this will line up OK. Just starting to get into the heart of this project. I will be dropping a 350/350th in also. will the donor 350 engine mounts work from the 1978? I'm trying to use all I can from the 78 donor truck on this low budget (hobby) build.

[Captainfab]

You can use the '78 motor mounts and the frame brackets. However you will need to add a spacer to the top of the frame where the top of the motor mount bracket will attach to the frame. The older frames are shorter in height than the '73-'87 C10 frames. If you get the frame brackets from a '73-'87 C20, they will be a little closer to the frame, than the C10 brackets.

Originally Posted by moovinmetal

Thanks, I just sat the frame on the donor member tonight I did not mark the old xmember position when removing. Oops. Hope this will line up OK. Just starting to get into the heart of this project. I will be dropping a 350/350th in also. will the donor 350 engine mounts work from the 1978? I'm trying to use all I can from the 78 donor truck on this low budget (hobby) build.

[moovinmetal]

Do you use the original holes in the crossmember and mount? Also which holes in the xmember to frame do I use to pin for marking and aligning? Thanks

[franky69c10]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

You can use the '78 motor mounts and the frame brackets. However you will need to add a spacer to the top of the frame where the top of the motor mount bracket will attach to the frame. The older frames are shorter in height than the '73-'87 C10 frames. If you get the frame brackets from a '73-'87 C20, they will be a little closer to the frame, than the C10 brackets.

Good info
Posted via Mobile Device

[62 Bowtie]

anyone ever just cut the frame and weld the new one in like the camero clip swap?

[Captainfab]

Yes I would use the original location on the crossmember for the motor mount brackets. As for locating the suspension crossmemberon the frame, I can't help you there since I've never done one on a '60-'62 frame. Did you not find anything about that in the links that markeb01 posted? One thing you could do to get close is measure your wheel base. The long beds are 127" and the short beds are 115". Try that and see if any holes line up. I know that on the crossmember conversion on the '60-'62 there are only a couple holes that line up. Most of them will need to be drilled.

Originally Posted by moovinmetal

Do you use the original holes in the crossmember and mount? Also which holes in the xmember to frame do I use to pin for marking and aligning? Thanks

[raycow]

Before you remove your old crossmember, measure the actual WB on both sides (just to make sure nothing is bent). If you like the way your front wheels are centered in the fender opening, use the same WB dimension when installing the new crossmember. If you don't like the way the wheels look, make any necessary adjustments to the WB before you start drilling holes.

Ray

[Mechanic77]

Originally Posted by raycow

Before you remove your old crossmember, measure the actual WB on both sides (just to make sure nothing is bent). If you like the way your front wheels are centered in the fender opening, use the same WB dimension when installing the new crossmember. If you don't like the way the wheels look, make any necessary adjustments to the WB before you start drilling holes.

Ray

Just curious, isn't moving just the crossmember forward (to alter wheelbase) going to affect the steering geometry? I've been considering doing the same thing on my '64, but I'm wondering if I should move all the steering linkage forward the same amount to keep the geometry where it should be?

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Mechanic77

Just curious, isn't moving just the crossmember forward (to alter wheelbase) going to affect the steering geometry? I've been considering doing the same thing on my '64, but I'm wondering if I should move all the steering linkage forward the same amount to keep the geometry where it should be?

I would think you could get away with a small change, like maybe an inch or less. For anything major you would definitely want to move the gearbox and idler arm.

Ray

[Mechanic77]

That's what I was thinking....on a related note, does anyone know how far forward the front wheels need to be moved in order to be centered in the wheel well? (I have a '64 C10)

[markeb01]

In looking back at the pictures, it appears the only hole on the side of the frame that “almost” lines up is the upper rear hole in the frame. In the before and after pictures it appears I slotted it straight up. The holes that are circled in the 2nd photo are the new positions aligned with the 75 crossmember.





I believe there was one other hole (on each side) on the bottom of the frame that lined up with the new crossmember, however I didn’t take any photos of that area and it’s been too many years to remember for sure. I measured everything on mine before disassembly, marking the floor and the fender for centerline. Without having that information, I’d line up on the upper rear hole, then follow the suggestions above and measure the wheelbase.

And here’s a recent thread discussing relocation of the crossmember forward to center the tires in the wheelwells:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=424381