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Old 12-27-2010, 07:00 PM   #1
baclay9
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Help with rocker arms

I went and picked my heads up from the machine shop today.

I had taken in a set of Comp cams roller tip rockers that were on the heads when I got them. The machinist basically told me that the roller tips were junk and he wouldn't run them in his lawn mower. Is there any truth to this?

I am building a 468 CI BB. Cam is Comp Cams XE274H

I was thinking if these aren't worth keeping I would try some full rollers.

Will I be ok with the aluminum roller rockers? Should I stick with Comp since that is what the rest of my drive train is? How are like the Summit brand ones say? Any help or advice is, as always, appreciated.
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Old 12-27-2010, 11:07 PM   #2
Marv D
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Re: Help with rocker arms

The roller tip stamped steel rockers fall on my list of "why bother!" But that's just an opinion.

Summit doesn't make anything (*). Surgi contracts the low bidder to make a cheap clone of a quality part, then advertises it on the same page as the 'real deal' . WATCH the summit house brand parts. Some are an OK product, some are cheap JUNK!!

Crower or Crane (if you can find anyone who still has some Crane stock) would be my choice (in fact I bought 6 sets of Crane Gold sbc rockers when they were closing stock) .

Not a Comp fan, and the general racing community has adopted the Harland Sharp and Scorpion roller rockers as the replacement for the tried and true Crane Gold stud mount favorites. With S&S moving Crane back in the market, who knows. Maybe there will be roller rockers available from them again. But until then,,, check the Harland sharps out. Building a really good reputation.

(* caviat,, Summit is under the same corprorate umbrella as HotRod Hardware, A-tec motorsports, and TrickFlow Specialities,, all owned by Paul Sergi. So Trickflow being a manufacturer 'MAY' make some of the summit house brand stuff. But more likely Surgi puts a US worker on part time so he can buy a 5¢ clone made in some mud hut in south Africa. )
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Last edited by Marv D; 12-27-2010 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 12-27-2010, 11:20 PM   #3
baclay9
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Re: Help with rocker arms

I know this has nothing to do with rockers but how would these connecting rods be for a street engine? Are eagle products good?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-6135B/

Or would these from Scat be better?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-26135716/

Any particular reason you don't care for Comps rockers or just a personal preference thing?

Last edited by baclay9; 12-27-2010 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:09 PM   #4
Wild83C10
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Re: Help with rocker arms

Harland sharps are excellent, been using them for many years.
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:49 PM   #5
baclay9
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Re: Help with rocker arms

I like the looks of the Harland sharps. There customer service seems to be outstanding and I like they are made in the USA.

Anyone have an opinion on the rods I posted. Seems most reviews I have googles seem to lean towered the Scats. They don't show bushings on the pin end at summit but surely they come with them.
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:11 PM   #6
Marv D
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Re: Help with rocker arms

Comp = your paying 30% for a name. Same with all of the industry 'standards' like MSD, Comp, Moroso, etc.
I'm not saying their parts are inferior, just that if you place a $100 Harland Sharp rocker, and a $100 Comp rocker side by side, your getting a $90 Harland Sharp product ($10 name) and a $70 Comp product ($30 name).
Just did a search through slummit and they apparently still have a good supply of the Crane Gold rockers. IMO these are the the top of the heap in stud mounted rockers.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B...roller+rockers

As far as rods, I've used Scat rods and they are a decent piece. I'd much rather use a cap screw rod than the 'through bolt' style of the Eagle. Always offers more clearance to the bore and cam. If you do a search for 5140 vs 4340 you will find there is as many for and against either. The biggest question being the material testing and quality of either. These both are made in the same Chinese foundry as I understand it. The heat treat process to make the 5140 as strong as the treated 4340 causes more distortion in the forging. 'Could' be a point for a flaw, or not?? I'm not a metallurgist and really don't understand everything I know about the two. Both should be fine but for my money, the Scat 4340 would go in my motor. Better piece, better finishing, better material. $40 is worth it IMO.
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When you're dead, it's only a problem for the people around you, because you don't know you're dead.
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I just did my taxes and reviewed my SS statement. Thanks to the current administration it looks like I will only have to work till noon on the day of my funeral.
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