Trucks with 2 batteries, pics please

[staggerd86c-10]

I have come to the conclusion when I get my truck back from the body shop im going to swap out the crappy optima I have and get myself 2 brand new batteries. My question is I have see in lmc the battery bracket for the drivers side but I would like to see some pics if you guys would be so kind. Also if you guys have custom mounts im open to ideas.
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[3r!c84]

i want one that mounts under the bed on the pass side to the frame

[nbpro]

An isolator can benefit the life of the alternator, without it, it has to charge both batteries
battery isolator typically is used in situations where multiple batteries are required, and its primary purpose is to ensure that the failure of a single battery will not incapacitate an entire electrical system


just a thought

[GM72K10]

The diesel military dual battery setup. Functional but not pretty.

[oldcarfart]

Originally Posted by staggerd86c-10

I have come to the conclusion when I get my truck back from the body shop im going to swap out the crappy optima I have and get myself 2 brand new batteries. My question is I have see in lmc the battery bracket for the drivers side but I would like to see some pics if you guys would be so kind. Also if you guys have custom mounts im open to ideas.
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check out diesel versions of your year/model truck in 2500/3500 series. what are your Optima issues as these batteries take a special procedure to recharge from "the dead"

[tucsonjwt]

I installed dual start batteries in my 83 c20 454 to try to overcome hot no start condition due to "starter heat soak". The additional amps help overcome the hard starting when the engine is hot. I did not use an isolator - just two start batteries wired parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative), to get more amps. I also got a higher output alternator to supply the two batteries. I should get heavier gauge cable between the battery and starter, but I have not done that yet. This setup helps, but I also have a GM high torque mini starter and remote solenoid installed.
On previous trucks, I have found that the typical isolators installed between the batteries (like an RV setup) did not work out for me. The isolators don't seem to last for more than a year or so before crapping out. You can get heavy duty isolators which are supposed to be more reliable, but they are big bucks. The isolator prevents drain on the primary battery when running accessories with the engine off.
I got Autozone Gold batteries ( about $100 per battery) and I am on my second set of free replacements in 4 years. I don't drive the truck much - maybe 3-4 miles at a time in the city, maybe once every two weeks - so the batteries never get a good charge. I am going to keep the truck on a trickle charger and try to avoid that problem.
I will post some pix when we have daylight in the desert. I just ran battery cables in front of the radiator and tie wrapped it under the core support top cover. You can get by with grounding the second battery to the engine block with a short cable, but I ran a long cable from terminal to terminal.

[LOW1TON]

Here is mine dual crappy Optimas! (LOL)

[GM72K10]

Stock dual setup in 86 K30 diesel C&C

[oldcarfart]

Where do you get the louvered panels? TIA!

[Greenlee]

Originally Posted by LOW1TON

Here is mine dual crappy Optimas! (LOL)

Wow, I like that engine bay! Who makes the air cleaner breather top?

I always thought those "crappy" Optimas were about the best battery you could buy.

[D-Day]

I'd say Odyssey if you want the best...

[staggerd86c-10]

I want more details on the brackets you guys are using
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[inovermyhead]

For squares the battery brackets from LMC are great. You could mount one on the frame rail in a frame box from F@rd for E-series vans or get one from one of the members here that make them (can't remember who at the moment).
What is your reason for dual batteries? Are you just looking for a reserve battery? Or are you looking for a battery to act as a jump start if the main fails? If so check out this http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcat...rchField=40102 but if you want an auxiallry try this http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=40120 both are good products and I have installed both. The DPM can be used as a jump start but you will need an isolator added to it as well as a DPDT switch.
Not a plug for painless, just the 2 main products I've installed and have good results from. If you're good at wiring you can piece your own set-up together like the 1st one.
Hope this helps!

[S10Fan]

I used a different brand (PAC) but similar to the Painless item mentioned above. In my situation (in the past) I needed dual batteries for a stereo setup. The goal was to be able to demo the sound system and have starting power left when/if needed. Battery isolators can leave you with 2 dead batteries, the relay controlled system solves that problem.

[nbpro]

I wasn't sure that Battery isolators was the way to go. But I'm glad other people chimed in and maybe this will help others in the future. It was just a thought in the middle of the night. But once again, great responses from the members here at this site.

[staggerd86c-10]

The reason for the 2 batteries is because with everything on my truck doesnt charge
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[inovermyhead]

Yeah if you're going to demo stereo or anything that drains the battery for a long period of time you really need a converter http://cascadeaudio.com/automotive_a...converters.htm to do that. The regular isolators (round type) aren't that good at holding up over long period of times when doing something like you were doing. The larger (square type w/heat sink style) isolators are better for that. But there are all kinds of different options out there depending on what the battery is supposed to be doing for you. And I believe the PAC type you're referring to might just be a dual battery setup and not the auxillary type like the painless.

[inovermyhead]

Staggered, what all do you have on your truck not allowing the battery to fully charge? Is the alternator up to par? Maybe you should just upgrade to a larger alternator (could be cheaper than dual batteries) and you might want to do an amp draw test on your truck to see what is draining the battery.

[staggerd86c-10]

I have an 140 amp alternator and an optima blue top. I have 2 viair 450s hid headlights and foglights when I hook the compressors up its drops the volt guage way below 12v but with them unplugged it stays at about 13v at idle and up to about 14v while reved
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[AceX]

What you're saying leads me to believe that this isn't actually a battery issue, infact, adding a second battery may make the problem worse. You need a higher output alt.

I'm running 3 batteries which are basically equivelant to 5 normal car batteries as far as storage and a 140a Powermaster alt. and after the truck sits in storage for a while, those things need juice, BAD. It can take a solid 4-5 hours or driving in order to get the batteries back to about 50%

EDIT: You just beat me to the punch... Add a second batt, AND get a higher output alt.? I would also check what that current alt. is actually putting out. I know that compressors can draw some serious current, but not THAT much... Also, 13v at idle is just fine. No worries at all. When you're constantly at 10v at idle, then there's a major issue...

[inovermyhead]

Hmmm, that's a lot of power you have right there. Not sure what the amp draw is on the compressors but I don't think it should drop that much unless maybe it's the battery? I'd take the battery somewhere and have a load test done on it. But you would definately benifit from adding another battery to the system. Just a standard dual battery set-up like what is used in car audio applications would work fine but use a good 200 Amp isolator like from a stereo shop (represent FL w/a Stinger product lol). But I would move the compressors to the second battery if you do install it. BTW, good move on removing the Optima. I think you would do better w/a good quality lead acid battery. Seems like the only good thing about Optima is that they can sit a shelf for a really long time and it's easier to install them in the interior of a vehicle.

[AceX]

Yeah, I run Kinetik batteries and HATE Optimas with a passion...

Running a Kinetik KHC1800 and two KHC600's with a 140a alt.

[inovermyhead]

Kinetik is a good battery but I've always like Stinger batteries personally. XS Power is good too. But for what Staggered is doing, I'd go w/the lead acid batteries. Look at all the lowriders w/all those hydraulics, trunks lined w/lead acid battery. Can't beat 'old-skool'

[inovermyhead]

Oh btw AceX, nice install buddy. I really like the preamp install but IMHO, I think it would look better in vinyl.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by inovermyhead

Yeah if you're going to demo stereo or anything that drains the battery for a long period of time you really need a converter http://cascadeaudio.com/automotive_a...converters.htm to do that. The regular isolators (round type) aren't that good at holding up over long period of times when doing something like you were doing. The larger (square type w/heat sink style) isolators are better for that. But there are all kinds of different options out there depending on what the battery is supposed to be doing for you. And I believe the PAC type you're referring to might just be a dual battery setup and not the auxillary type like the painless.

The technology available in the early 90's didn't give me many options. LOL. I remember pricing a 150amp alternator back then, $200.00. Not much now, but a fortune back then.