Opinions Needed! Motor Swap turned Pain in the Butt.

[jrdv]

I was just going to pull the motor and put in the new one.
I got the motor out and decided to paint the firewall and inner fenders.
Problem is, I don't paint ( not properly anyway )!

Opinions wanted.

1) Should I properly paint the firewall or just rattle can it? It is not a show truck!

2) Should I POR 15 the front of the frame? Again, it's not a show truck.

3) I have a Painless wireing harness. Should I use it or order an engine harness from LMC. I don't have any wireing issues with this truck, but I do have another truck with issues. Should I use it on this one?

4) What should I do about the rust hole in the firewall? It doesn't go all the way through to the floor, but is a future problem. I would have to pull the carpet to fix it right (burn insulation and or carpet ). Should I wait untill the next restore?

5) Should I pull the brake booster to clean it up and paint it? My brakes were working great and I hate to mess up a good thing!

I know I am just being lazy, but I just want to put the motor in and drive! Problem is that I already took off the fenders, inner fenders, and cowl. I'm too far in to stop!

Help a Lazy Azz!

Thanks

John

[Jerry Jones]

Unless you need it right now, I would do it all.

[jrdv]

Dang it Jerry, you are supposed to tell me to take the easy way out!

Thanks

[jrdv]

I forgot the 6th question.

I have an original tilt and a IDIDIT stainless tilt. Which one would you put in?
I was thinking the stainless would look good with the brushed aluminum cluster and glove box covers.

[scrapmetalart]

its already apart...clean it, fix the rust hole & paint it. at least...

[Ironangel]

There is no easy way out! I found that out ...Again! Tonight! "You know you dont deserve the truck if you dont do it right...NOW!" Im rattle canning mine...after the dash pad experience! Suck factor blew right off the scale! Hey man, at least the engines out of the way right? Mines still in!

[CH3VY1972]

Do it how you want, your truck. And even if its not the best everyone will like it. Cause this is a 67-72 forum. haha. Nice truck by the way.

[propanemudtruck]

Looking at just the firewall pic, I was thinking there's not too much wrong with it, just drive it!

But looking at the rest of the truck, that thing is a beaut and it deserves to have the firewall done right!

[spike38]

Bottom line is, It's yours, Do what you want to.
But the engine is out, So it's an excellent opportunity
to treat any rust spots. And dress it up some.
If all you can do right now is a rattlecan job, Then so be it.
at least do something to encapsulate the rust. It don't have to
be pretty. You can even use a foam brush. But it will pay for
itself in the long run.

Spike

[jrdv]

Thanks for the opinions!
You guys are probably right. I should do it all while there is easy access.

I bought a paint gun a while back, but I have never used one.
I'm worried that it is too cold ( 50 in the shop ) to paint and will be for a couple more months.

I do need to fix the rust spot!

I really can't decide about the wireing harness or tilt swap.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I would certaily paint the firewall white while the engine is out. You can use rattle cans. Ace hardware has good paint in their premium line. The gloss white is a good match for that. As long as you have a paint gun you can get a better job with it. You should do the inner fenders at this point also. Krylon Satin black is good for this. Rustoleom Rusty metal primer is great stuff. Spray it over rust & you can shoot the color in about 1/2 hour or wait till the next day. I am not connected with any of these products but I do a lot of engine compartment detailing & these are what I use.

[DirtyLarry]

I agree, you are this far into it so you might as well do it right. With as far as you already have it apart it would take but a few more minutes to pull off the booster and cap those brake lines. The biggest hassle will be bleeding when you go back together. I just had to patch up a matching rust hole in my ’78.

It is supposed to be back in the mid 60’s around here next week. Maybe you can paint it then.

Regarding the column, I would use the OEM tilt over the IDIDIT and if there isn’t anything wrong with the wiring leave it as is and save the harness for the other truck.

You know how these projects go….. take your planned budget and double it. Then whatever time you think a project will take, triple it!

I love your shop!

[notsolo]

Originally Posted by jrdv

Thanks for the opinions!
You guys are probably right. I should do it all while there is easy access.

I bought a paint gun a while back, but I have never used one.
I'm worried that it is too cold ( 50 in the shop ) to paint and will be for a couple more months.

I do need to fix the rust spot!

I really can't decide about the wireing harness or tilt swap.

Since you have a spray gun use it. Get some cheap plastic tarps, cover the rest of the truck. Make a tent out of a plastic tarp for the front end, heat it with an oil filled radiator or 2 (No Flame or Element.) clean fire wall, repair rust, prime, go easy with the paint, 2-3 lite coats of primer. even if its only 60 degree's the paint should be fine. buff with scotch brite. Top coat same way. Don' forget the repirator. Nice Truck!

[TugOwar]

I think it's your truck so do it however you want to. Rattle can the fire wall at least. The ididit column would be a breeze to install with the front clip off.

And here's a curve ball for ya, paint the inner fenders .... white! Yeah, I know, everyone is going to gag at the thought but I saw one once, firewall AND inner fenders painted white, brightened up the engine bay like you wouldn't believe! Plus it'll match your exterior color.

Beautiful truck btw.

[CrashBob]

Ya got apart, just do it!
Nothing worse than laying in bed later, trying to sleep but that little "why the ^$*@ didn't I do it." keeps buzzin' around in yer head.

Good Luck!
CrashBob

[brad_man_72]

just do it, you're already there. That's how an engine swap turns into a body off restoration.
theirs no way I could have a truck that far apart and not fix the rust clean prep and paint the firewall. If you're not comfortable using your paint gun use a rattlecan. I an definetl paint better with a rattlecan than alot of people can paint with a gun.
ididit colum would match the other stuff andbe easy to do while you have the truck down.

[jrdv]

Thanks guys!
You are right. I should do it right.
I was hoping for an easy way out!!!!!!!

I've always been afraid of painting, but you've got to learn somehow.
I'm going to give it a try.

I appreciate the good advice........I just needed the backup to make up my mind.

I will take some pics of the progress.

This board Rocks.

John

[VA72C10]

I am one that would paint the frame rattle can black, with the inners and rad support. Paint the firewall white (after fixing the rust) if you can get a matching shade of white. If not, you could also paint it black to the break line where it's blue now...
Rattle can (if prepped right) can work well in situations like this where conditions are not ideal for a high quality automotive paint. And it won't have to be buffed to bring out the shine or get rid of orange peel.....(think about all the bumps on the firewall )

Since you said you weren't good at painting I'll throw in my 2cents because I've been very successful with rattle can looking very nice....for a long time.....in applications like this....


The trick to rattle can (as any other paint) is proper prep...getting it really clean and ready to accept the paint....and then keeping the spray distance consistent. Try a patch piece of metal first so you don't get runs on your truck.

Find a good distance for you and do light coats. The first coat should not cover all the old color. If it does you're probably too close or keeping the spray in one spot too long. Use overlapping strokes so you don't get lines. Try 2-3 coats. It sounds like a lot of work but would take the same time as one heavy coat and you'd have runs with the one heavy coat. Make sure to follow the directions on the can which usually say you have to recoat within an hour or if not....wait 48 hours....

If you don't follow those directions (within 1 hr or after 48) the paint will look like crackle finish as all of the solvents will not have leached out yet. so try to do the 2-3 light coats within an hour....you can probably do the firewall, inners, and rad support, then back to the firewall and repeat...

Hope that helps

[special-K]

Now you did it. You went and opened up a new can of worms. Do I keep on fishin' or waste most of the can? Damn sure ain't gonna eat 'em.
Look what happens when you ask a bunch of guys far away sittin' at the computer all washed up and cozy..."yeah sure do it!"..."I would if I was you"..."when you're done with that one,can you do mine?" (figured I'd slip that last one in) You know you just want to slip back inside and watch more Oprah. So just put the motor in so you can look under your hood later and think,"I should have done all that when I had it apart"

I worry that if you don't fix that minor rust spot it will creep into the cab support area and you'll have a much bigger mess and something that will compromise the truck. Unless you can match the firewall just right,I'd rattle can it. I like Plasticolor low gloss engine paint on the frame and inner fenders. It doesn't cost more and it's tough stuff. If wiring wasn't an issue,leave it. It's not hard to replace with the truck back together. If you paint everything else you better do the master cyl/booster. Get creative with masking and paint it in place. What else will you do with the Ididit column.
? It would look good since you have the other brushed aluminum. Use the factory one on another truck.
While I have the power to tell you what to do I have a few more requests. First,get me a ticket to fly out there and give you a hand (see? I'm not that bad). Next,get a money order for $......

[jrdv]

VA72C10,
I am going to go with your advice. It is an engine compartment after all!
I will fix the rust spot first!
Thanks for the "how to".

I am leaning towards the stainless column.

Special-K,
I did open a can of worms!
I can't get you a plane ticket, but I am sending tickets for Amtrac and Greyhound. You should arrive here around the 1st of March.
I am so excited you are coming to help!

John

[jrdv]

*********Mods--Please move to 4x4 build section***********
This is turning into a build project!

I spent about 6 hours on the truck last night.
I took off the brake booster and master cylinder, steering column and shaft, and I did a lot of sanding.

I am going to rewire the truck with the Painless harness. I think that is the best way to go in the long run. I hate wireing!

The rust issue is a little worse than I thought.
I can make a patch just fine, but what do I do about the inner rust. There is only one hole in the floorboard.
Should I spray it with rust inhibitor and patch?

[jrdv]

Got a little work done over the weekend!

Made a patch for the rust spot, but my welder won't reach to where my truck is. I'm going to put the front tires on and roll it about 5 feet.

I did get it all primed except for the rust hole.

[propanemudtruck]

Nice work!

[spike38]

Nice job!
You'll be glad you did.

Spike

[jrdv]

^^^Thanks Spike!

I painted the firewall tonight. It turned out ok, but I wish I had a little more experience. I ended up with some lint and specks that I didn't get cleaned off. I also can see the old paint in places that I didn't get sanded smooth.
Firewalls are a pain in the ass.
Also, the color is off from the rest of the truck, but I didn't expect it to match exactly.

I'm just glad this is done so I can start doing what I love.....putting new parts on!

I made an extension cord for my welder and hope to get the new patch put in tomorrow. I am going to POR15 over the top.

I can't decide if I should POR15 the frame or just rattle can it too. I don't plan on doing the whole frame, just the front.

For the pic whores.....here's some!