Body alignment

[1LowToy]

Would it be as simple as it looks to straighten out the body on the frame? Four mounts on the cab and two on the radiator support and give it a shove? I know that I have one cab mount cross threaded from the factory. If I can get it out I'm hoping to tap the threads an move on.

The price of a couple of scuffed knuckles sounds about right.

[1LowToy]

The problem I see is that the front fender is closer to the tire on the left than the right. I'm thinking the cab is not mounted straight.

Anyone?

[low man]

does the front line up with the bumper and have a nice even gap?

[1LowToy]

Unknown as the bumper is loose mounted cause the frame horn is bent. The problem I'm trying to solve is more space between the fender and tire on the right than the left.

[cableguy0]

You can do what your trying to do. I would suspect its been apart before if a bolt is crossthreaded. Its going to be really hard to get a crossthreaded body bolt out. It will likely either bend the cage and spin or just break the cage and spin.

[low man]

maybe the cab moved back on one side.usualy the front should be nice and square.all the lines even.is the cab even with the box on both sides

[1LowToy]

I don't think it's been appart ever. I can see where the left rear cab bolt is not tightened down fully. I'm hoping I can get it out and re-thread it. This seems to be a common problem of one wheel further out than the other. I'm just trying to make a square body square on the frame.

[low man]

its hard sometimes,there okd trucks and god knows what they have been through.if the frame horn is bent,you will have to traighten it up.i try to line them up as good as possible by having it all togheter,tryng to be consitent with all the gaps and the bumper

[thinair]

You said that one frame horn is bent??????????????
probablly oughta check the rest of the frame if things aren't lining up.
as far as "retaping" that nut.......good luck. it would be easier to cut a hole in the cab and remove that square nut thats gonna spin and just use another nut and bolt.

[1LowToy]

The left front frame horn is bent in about 1.25" and is not bent any further back.

[1LowToy]

Anyone have pics of where to hole the cab to get at the fasteners?

[low man]

its in the floor,you can cut a hole.not this big,i had to change the floor pan.but if i remember right from under theres a hole close to the bolts that you could make a mark with a punc to guide you close to where you have to cut.i usualy cut it in an h shape about 3" and just open it up.and when your done just weld it back up

[low man]

its under the square on the rail.mine unbolted fine

[snapdaddy]

could you possibly have alignment issues like maybe something on your suspension is bend?

[Keith Seymore]

Yes - cabs did get set crooked at the factory, which did manifest iteself as a different gap between the bumper and fender from one side to the other.

There's not much fore/aft length there, particularly on a regular cab, so if the cab is pointing off in one direction the hood will follow, which drives the fenders off in that direction too. Not nearly as big a problem on crew cab/Blazer/Suburban, because the additional length made the cab placement more robust.

And yes - cab bolts did get crossthreaded at the factory. We tried to catch them all in repair but one or two may have gotten past us...(especially if we were having a bad day).

[Keith Seymore]

Whoa! It was worth saying twice....(apparently)

[1LowToy]

I think my 5 year/50k warrantee is up by now as I have 57k miles on it. So does anyone have a pic of where get at the top mounting nuts on the rear cab mounts? I'll surely try penatrating fluid on them first. It's a very rust free cab but like someone said before "a cross thread is better than locktite anyday".