fitting edelbrock intake manifold

[blackdawg]

In the process of doing my build i put a edelbrock performer intake on my 350.For the intake gaskets i replaced them with edelbrock.the front and rear seal are from my gasket kit.I haven"t bolted the intake down yet but does seem to be a bit of a gap where it meets the front seal.i would assume the same for the back.any ideas on the one.i saw a thread where someone said not to use the front and rear seal.

[jocko]

yes, concur with NOT using the seals. I've had similar problems, it's not "an Edelbrock thing", it's "a chevrolet thing". i.e. dare I say poor design. Anyway, the best way to get around it is to put your intake gaskets on (the side gaskets for the intake runners) with a little gasket cement so they hold in place a bit (don't go crazy with it), then lay up a thick bead (i.e. maybe 1.5-2 times the thickness of your rubber gasket that you're having problems with) and let it harden just a bit, so it's a little "bouncy" but doesn't stick to your fingers like crazy - then place the intake manifold on. Widen out the bead a little bit at the corners and cover the connections to the intake runner gaskets just like the rubber seal you're tossing did. This has seemed to work best for me - you essentially make your own gasket out of the silicone sealer. Only trick is to make it not too thin, not too thick, and don't let it harden completely before you install the manifold. This provides good seals in the corners and a complete seal between the horizontal mating surfaces.

[198plus]

I swear by this technique

Originally Posted by jocko

yes, concur with NOT using the seals. I've had similar problems, it's not "an Edelbrock thing", it's "a chevrolet thing". i.e. dare I say poor design. Anyway, the best way to get around it is to put your intake gaskets on (the side gaskets for the intake runners) with a little gasket cement so they hold in place a bit (don't go crazy with it), then lay up a thick bead (i.e. maybe 1.5-2 times the thickness of your rubber gasket that you're having problems with) and let it harden just a bit, so it's a little "bouncy" but doesn't stick to your fingers like crazy - then place the intake manifold on. Widen out the bead a little bit at the corners and cover the connections to the intake runner gaskets just like the rubber seal you're tossing did. This has seemed to work best for me - you essentially make your own gasket out of the silicone sealer. Only trick is to make it not too thin, not too thick, and don't let it harden completely before you install the manifold. This provides good seals in the corners and a complete seal between the horizontal mating surfaces.

[markeb01]

I agree completely. For years I always used either the cork end seals, or the rubber end seals. After all GM spend millions of dollars designing the system. And yes I heard the same advice about using a bead of silicone, but I also had an engine builder tell be that people get stupid with the stuff and slop on so much a piece breaks off inside, winds up in the oiling system and fries a bearing. That scared me enough to never attempt using it.

That all changed the last time I replaced my manifold. In 40 years of dealing with Chevrolet small blocks I’ve never had one that didn’t have some type of problem with the intake gaskets. Last year I finally took the advice and used silicone, exactly as Jocko describes. It worked perfectly. The manifold vacuum reading was steadier and the engine was more responsive. I’m a believer. I’ll never use end seals again.

[jimmydean]

I thought it was just me. I just lay a nice and even bead, no leaks.

[blackdawg]

thanks guys a bead of gasket sealer it is on both ends.

[64fleetside]

What jocko said-I haven't used a cork end seal in 20+ yrs now.

[Woogeroo]

Originally Posted by blackdawg

thanks guys a bead of gasket sealer it is on both ends.

That what I did on mine a few years ago... so far, so good.



-W

[LostMy65]

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