A bed question

[Denee007]

HI! While I'm still waiting for parts ordered to finish my rear suspension job, I've just started paying attention to the bed, or the wood that's going to be going in the bed. The wood came with the truck and the strappings and nutsnbolts. However, the side rails or rail in the photo below, is it spotwelded into place. There are two bolts afixed holding/supporting the fenders. Shame that before the bodyshop coated the bed, that they couldn't have removed these as surely new ones were going into place. I was thinking of contacting the body shop and see how much they may charge to remove this crappy coating and paint it the same as the truck. Opinions?
thanks,
dne'

[Houston54]

The angle strips are spot welded onto the bedsides with about 20-30 spot welds. Those do not appear to be in bad condition.
The removal of the bed liner can be difficult but I have seen some beds with liner that were painted the body color. Depending on how you plan to use the truck you might leave it in place. If the truck is for show and no go to home depot/lowes then replacement bed sides might be the solution but then you have $$ for prep and paint. The matching of the current color can also be difficult.
Some nicely done bed wood with stainless strips/bolts along with painting the liner may give you a bed that you are happy with without making the body shop richer.

[Denee007]

2030 spotwelds~ well now wonder they didn't remove the strips! lol The new long strips/rails that came with the truck included these rails. I did notice that the square holes that will hold the rails in place on the originals(ones in the photo) are like when they removed the old wood, they ripped out the nice square holes leaving a messed up hole. I guess fender washers could rememdy that. The truck will not be a show quality truck!~ just something to eventually drive to the Nifte50ees. And as for the coating, maybe once it's washed, maybe it'll look better, besides I see some company offers a nice bed cover fiberglass~ might look good, especially if the truck is left outside not to ruin/soak the new wood. The PO had already varnished the wood. I'll take some more close up views of the rails in question. ; )
thanks!!

Originally Posted by Houston54

The angle strips are spot welded onto the bedsides with about 20-30 spot welds. Those do not appear to be in bad condition.
The removal of the bed liner can be difficult but I have seen some beds with liner that were painted the body color. Depending on how you plan to use the truck you might leave it in place. If the truck is for show and no go to home depot/lowes then replacement bed sides might be the solution but then you have $$ for prep and paint. The matching of the current color can also be difficult.
Some nicely done bed wood with stainless strips/bolts along with painting the liner may give you a bed that you are happy with without making the body shop richer.

[Denee007]

Here are some various photos of my bed. I'm not unfamiliar with drilling out spot welds as I did a bunch on the restoration of my '67 Mustang. I just figure if I'm going to do this truck justice, I'd like to do it right the first time. ; )
Please take a moment to critique these photos and help me put it together correctly. I'll do the work, you just tell me what is correctnproper. I have to make an impression when I go to the car clubs!
The stove bolts that are holding down the first rail is raised up. Are there flatter bolts for this?
How many rails/floor supports should there be?
And how do the floor supports be spaced?
I'll be back~
dne'

[blackdiesel]

They make a cap to go over you old strips, that the way I would go. you can't remove the strips with out messing up the pain on the out side.

[Houston54]

You will not need that washer in that location. The bed wood will sit between that cross sill and the angle strip. There are bed to frame bolt kits that use an off-set flat washer in 6 locations to secure the bed to the frame. These bolt kits have long bolts that go through the wood, through the cross sill, through the frame member and are bolted to the bottom of the frame (at least that is how my 54 is).

The bed bolts that secure the wood to the angle strip should have a large enough head to cover the damage to that hole you show. To make sure find a 3/8-16 carriage bolt and fit it in the hole. Those are the size of those bolts if I recall correctly. Maybe 1/4-20 though.

The off-set washers are counter-sunk into the wood using a Forestner (sic?) bit which I have. Just holler and I will loan it to you.

[Denee007]

Well, alrighty then! I'm not ready to put the wood in yet, but getting all my ducks in a row! ; )

Blaakdiesel, I'll look into thost caps!! and Houston54, when it comes time, I will call you on that bit! That photo (really cool btw) really helped!! One more thing to keep me thinking! ; )
thanks!

Originally Posted by Houston54

You will not need that washer in that location. The bed wood will sit between that cross sill and the angle strip. There are bed to frame bolt kits that use an off-set flat washer in 6 locations to secure the bed to the frame. These bolt kits have long bolts that go through the wood, through the cross sill, through the frame member and are bolted to the bottom of the frame (at least that is how my 54 is).

The bed bolts that secure the wood to the angle strip should have a large enough head to cover the damage to that hole you show. To make sure find a 3/8-16 carriage bolt and fit it in the hole. Those are the size of those bolts if I recall correctly. Maybe 1/4-20 though.

The off-set washers are counter-sunk into the wood using a Forestner (sic?) bit which I have. Just holler and I will loan it to you.