Any more?

[Jparks]

Here are some specs of my current setup. I am wondering if there is anything I can change out to get significant increases, no budget either. I'd like to go without blower or turbo options to start. Then I'll take advice on that too. I'm not opposed to the blower if that's what it's going to take though, it'd just have to be a low profile blower, don't want to run a cowl hood or cut a hole in the hood.

Block:
New GM 4 Bolt Main
4.003" bore
One piece rear
Diamond Honed

Crankshaft:
3.800" Stroke
Micro polished and chambered

Rods:
5.7" Center-to-center

Pistons:
Hypereutectic
Zero Deck Height

Heads:
AFR custom, straight plug
2.02"/1.60" Stainless valves
75cc Chambers/180cc Intake
Full CNC

Carb:
750 cfm quickfuel double pumper

Manifold:
Performer RPM Air-gap dual plane

Cam:
Custom ground hydraulic roller
.510" intake/.521" exhaust lift
231 intake/ 236 exhaust duration @ .50"
111 lobe center

Rockers:
1.5:1 full roller

91 octane
6200 Maximum RPM
Currently Dynoed at 504hp/490tq

I'm a noob with performance engines so go easy on me.

[djracer]

Have you run it down the track yet? what tranny, tire and rear gear

[Jparks]

I haven't ran it in my new build. 29.5" tall tire, 3:73 rear posi, th350 now, probably going to a 700r4 though
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[djracer]

It should run very well like it is. I think the hyper pistons are you limiting factor. You could run a 75 or 100 shot of nitrous but you would need to be on top of your tune up. I would run a seperate fuel pump and tank for the nitrous side and spray it with a higher octane fuel.

[Jparks]

Okay so nitrous is an option, what about changing heads, pistons and cam? Any combos that would produce significantly more power and torque? Also what about lowering compression and running a weiand low profile blower?
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[KQQL IT]

What are you looking for? That would run mid to bottom 12's as is. Provided you ca hook it.
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[Jparks]

that actually sounds good, didn't know it would produce those numbers, guess it's gonna get cleaned and polished a bit and left how it is

[djracer]

Real power those are pretty strong HP/TQ numbers.

[68 C-10 KID]

I had a hot 355 solid roller that put up 518HP on the Dyno. It ran 12.40-50's with 3:73's and a 26" tall tire.
As Kevin said your pistons and your rods are a good start. Also you can change to a 1.6/1.7 rocker to get more lift, if ya want more.

[BigDan3131]

That's a very mild cam for 380 CID + engine. What is your actual compression ratio? Before you start changing things go out and drive it and then see if you need more. With more you need a brake system that will stop you, like a hydro-boost or electric brake setup or if you have strong legs plain old manual brakes. So if your actual comp ratio is like 10.5:1 or higher forget the blower idea as you would have to underdrive it so much it wont make you any useable power. You already have a head with 75cc chambers so changing heads to lower your comp ratio isn't doable without tearing it back apart for new pistons.
I would go to a solid roller cam because SBC engines are less prone to have valvetrain issues than their BBC counterparts [ I know its like one in a thousand]. Swap to single plane intake with smaller runners tuned to your combo and keep the TH350. If you have to have OD get a TH200R4 as the gear spread is much better and wont shock your tires so hard like the 700R4 will.

[Jparks]

okay so maybe I spoke too soon on not touching her, i've drove it a bunch before I tore it all down to redo the body, it was good but could have been better, in my opinion, not what I thought 500hp would feel like, it's got brand a new cpp 4 wheel big brake kit so stopping shouldn't be a problem, the compression is 9.9:1, like i said I'm a noob in this area, can you give me specifics on a solid roller cam, single plane intake, rockers, pistons, etc, i can pull the engine back apart if it's necessary, what type of gains do you think i'd be getting from the above mentioned stuff, also I don't really need an overdrive so I can stick with the th350

[BigDan3131]

Well not to seem like a downer but those pistons are the biggest limiting factor. You can't lean on your motor like you could if you had forged pistons. The heads while great are better off on a 350 or smaller engine[do you have a flow chart showing what it flows lift wise at higher than.500 lift?] AFR's website shows only to .500 lift but you have fully ported versions. Who's roller cam is that[what brand] because if you have those new style hyd roller lifters that came out. You can extend your rpm band up to 7k rpm. Its says its a custom grind, did your engine guy build this or did you?
I know how you feel, back in the late eighties having a 350 make 500hp was a big deal, but now its commonplace. Anyway if you had forged pistons you could do the twin turbo setup they did in CarCraft with a single carb for $4500.00. Its a complete kit that made 940 hp. But with your heads and intake and same cam I'm sure at 700hp on pump gas shouldn't be an issue.

Read here:http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...kit/index.html

[Jparks]

the cam came from smeding performance, they have a website but it doesn't give that info, i am the second owner so I didn't get this info when i bought the truck, i guess i just need someone with extensive knowledge to tell me what I need to change, no budget, to make this thing more than it is now, whether that be, change pistons, heads, cam, intake, etc or do the same and add turbos or a supercharger, i think I'd rather not go the turbo or supercharger route though but i'm open to anything

[BigDan3131]

Ok, so here is what I did. I went and compared what you have with what you can add to make more power. I took the equipment you already have and I checked it with different cam profiles. I found that no matter which cam I chose the results were about the same. So, going solid roller cam with just changing to a 1000cfm carb and I think using AFR's new composite intake, 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 stepped headers I found a cam that will make peak hp of 603.4 and peak tq of 534.5 with an average of 360/326 hp & tq ,The average numbers tell me it has a broad power curve and not a peaked out one. Resulting in one that is more drivable in a broadest term street use. I like having a stout motor in a "street" vehicle. Stock and warmed over stock is boring. The cam Grind number is :288BR-6 and the part number is :12-910-9 [14]

[Jparks]

I really appreciate the help, the numbers you gave me significantly increase my average hp which is 229 right now but it hits my average tq pretty hard, it's 429 right now, not sure if it matters much since it increases my overall tq numbers by almost 45, in the post a couple up you mentioned my pistons being my biggest limiting factor and the heads were better off on a 350 or smaller engine, if I'm going to change the carb, cam and intake should I just go ahead and change the pistons and heads, would i find anymore power and/or torque that way, also i'm completely with you on having a powerful street machine, they make 4 door cars now with over 500hp so why no try to squeeze the most I safely can out of my 72, i'm glad you chimed in cause i definitely don't have the knowledge to figure this stuff out, thanks again

[BigDan3131]

I would find out from AFR if they think the heads are too small and if you sent them to one of their porting houses would it allow for the cam change.

This place was on AFR's website as a porting house:http://www.frankensteinracingheads.com/

AFR has a brand new single plane manifold that is composite not aluminum and from what I've read it does make some good numbers. Its pricey:http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=79_81 but I think having a cooler running engine is worth it if you want to keep your power up high year round down there in TX. You might find it cheaper elsewhere. I think as long as you use at least 93 octane in it you should be fine with those pistons, its when you think about NOS or a blower or turbo they become dicey. If you do decide to use that cam only have a pro install it. They need to measure piston to valve clearance because if its too tight the valve can hit the piston top. If it measures too tight then you would have to go to forged pistons because I don't think they can enlarge the valve pockets in those hyper pistons.

[djracer]

Jsparks is this a conventional small block or LS Style? With as much power as this motor makes already I would try to find a buyer for it and go LS if its not already. I just couldn't see going real deep in a redo and then trying to sell a bunch of left over parts.

[Jparks]

conventional, I have it for sale on the forum but I haven't got any bites, not sure if I should be trying to sell it locally or maybe I'm just asking too much, I was trying to sell it with the built trans that goes with it, I didn't think 4500 was too much for a 500hp motor and built th350, maybe I was wrong and should adjust my price, when it sold I was going to go with a sbc 427

[djracer]

Sorry about spelling your screen name wrong. If you can stomach it I would try 3995 firm and see if that helps. If you go the 427 route I would still make sure it was LS Based. Good luck with the sale. You might also try Craigslist. Cash is real tight these days so you will have to find the right person or possibly seperate the motor and tranny.