Accuair

[cableguy0]

Have the accuair e-level system on a truck. Not using the wheel sensors as they were optional and the vehicle was way too far along in the build to add the sensors. The kit was sold direct from accuair etc. Heres the issue. With the key on the system works as it should everything is fine. As soon as the truck is started it starts dumping the rear bags. It releases air in short spurts from the valve block. This is a new problem. We have been round and round with tech at accuair. We have replaced the ecu as well as the touchpad. All connections have been checked over and over again. Battery power to the compressor and the red wire to the ecu. Keyed power to yellow wire. Grounds are good. Just looking for anyone who can offer any help. Accuair tech is stumped and so am I. I have run the truck with the alternator disconnected to rule out interference. Also without the stereo and the fuel pump to rule out interference there. Im clueless. Truck is unsafe because it randomly dumps the rear bags at any time while its running.

[Painter D]

When you say you have the "E-level system" how is the actual leveling part of the system working correctly if you're "not" using the ride height sensors?



I only ask because if your not using the sensors maybe that could be part of the problem.

[cableguy0]

The kit was sold minus sensors directly by accuair. Supposed to be kosher. I might be misquoting the e-level part. The ecu says accuair on it and is identical to the ecu sold with the e-level kit except the sticker on top doesnt say e-level it says accuair. The system worked properly for a while. The truck was a work in progress and was driven around the parking lot etc. Had a decent amount of run time. It probably was driven 50 or so miles before the problem started.

[AccuAirSuspension]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

The kit was sold minus sensors directly by accuair. Supposed to be kosher. I might be misquoting the e-level part. The ecu says accuair on it and is identical to the ecu sold with the e-level kit except the sticker on top doesnt say e-level it says accuair. The system worked properly for a while. The truck was a work in progress and was driven around the parking lot etc. Had a decent amount of run time. It probably was driven 50 or so miles before the problem started.

This is a SwitchSpeed Controller (i.e. no height sensors). We have definitely been round and round on what is causing the interference with the system. The next step is to power the AccuAir system off of a completely different battery along side the truck and start working backwards from there. This has got to be the rarest case I have seen in thousands of installs... so my curiosity and interest in solving the problem for you has reached an all time high =) Looking forward to seeing what happens on a completely separate battery.

[cableguy0]

Hi Reno. We spoke on the phone a month of two ago. Im Jason,the mechanic stuck with this mess. I have been through everything backward and forward. I was thinking to just unhook one of the batteries in the truck. Seperate it from the circuit and simply power the air ride from that battery and let the truck use a single battery. Small world I guess lol. Its mind boggling to say the least. I basically unhooked everything on the truck that isnt required for it to run and still the same deal. You know the story....

[Clyde65]

One thing that helps me when Im stumped is have someone else take over with new eyes and ideas, might be an option for you.

[dznucks]

Have you checked all the wiring? I dont see how a good battery is causing an issue. If the battery could be causing an issue, the system wasnt designed properly.

When I installed my system, I found some bad wires in the harness going from the ECU to Valve block. Sometimes it would work right, sometimes it wouldnt. Very sporatic levelling issues. The damage could not be seen externally, only using a multimeter could i tell they were bad. I spliced the bad spots and fixed the quirky issues. I am not saying you have the same issue, but wiring is very fragile and finiky. Maybe something was damaged during packing/unpacking, on installation, or after installation.

I would check the resistance in each harness, pin to pin. Not just the connections.

Also, i know this is a stupid question but when you experiece these issues, where is the controller located?

[cableguy0]

Without a picture it would be impossible to explain where the controller is. I use the term truck loosely. Its a truck in shape only. It started life as an 88 chevy but the bed and cab are grafted together. The front half of what used to be the bed is open to the cab and houses the sub and speakers. The rear compartment behind the wheel tubs houses the main fuel pump and the nitrous fuel pump. The nitrous tank,two batteries,fuel cell,air compressor and tank are also back there. Everything has been eliminated as a source of interference. Ie we ran the truck without the fuel pump running.I will check the harness tomorrow though. Nothing looks damaged but im at wits end and its worth a shot.

[dznucks]

The reason I ask about the controller location is because I have experienced a full dump while driving down the road on a few occasions. It was because the controller was inadvertantly activated by something shifting in the vehicle and hitting the controller. ie. a dogg or groceries.

I understand what you are up against and its a daunting task. Patience and fundamental thinking is what you need. I do this on aircraft wiring alot.

ASSUMING every peice of the system is in good working condition, its more than likely a wiring issue.When you check the connections, look to make sure the tiny pins are inserted in the connector housing the same distance (for female connectors). On male connectors, make sure none of the pins have been bent and pushed against another pin or pushed to the bottom of the connector. Also, make sure debris hasnt gotten in a connector, especially the mini-USB.

For checking wiring, (you may know this) use the ohms setting of a multi-meter and look for anything fishy. You should see solid resistance in each wire. If a wire is giving you funny readings, its suspect. While reading the resistance of the wire, jiggle the harness and watch for the reading to change. If it does, its suspect.

If you have access, you can pull a wire through you fingers and feel for any odd spots in the wire. A wire can be over streched, pulled to tight around a sharp edge, or crushed; damaging the wires internally or splitting the insulation. This could jeapordize the the systems resistance against interference.

In every instance where the wire comes in contact with a hard metal edge, check for chaffing. Does any of the wiring come within roughly 6" of exhaust?

If all the wiring checks out, its a glitch in the ECU or controller. I do know that there are some issues with the controller. I am not sure if your system uses the same controller as the levelling system, but those contorllers get very hot on their own. Even with the backlighting turned off. I have had one controller do wierd, unexplainable things. Replaced the controller and it was fixed. This new controller gets too hot to touch on a long drive. I have to leave it disconnected in order not to trash it too.

Perhaps Accuair can lend some help on that issue as well.

Sorry for the novel, just thinking out loud. Good luck.

[cableguy0]

The controller sits in its own pod next to the shifter. It cannot be hit jarred or rattled other than from the rowdy 540 when its fired up. The issue is only with the engine running.

[dznucks]

Did you try turning the key on and vibrating the truck and wiggling all the wiring to the system with the engine off to replicate the problem?

Where is the ECU ignition power source wire tied into the trucks electrical system? I think its the yellow wire. Does the ignition electrical and Accuair electrical wiring share any common points, ie grounds, power, or anything. It sounds like there is alot of accesories behind the wheel tubs, do they share a common ground?

You and Reno mentioned powering the system off a seperate battery, what did we learn from that? What is the PSI in the tanks when all this is going on? The valves will dump if the tank pressure is less than the bag pressure.

[dougminton]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

The controller sits in its own pod next to the shifter. It cannot be hit jarred or rattled other than from the rowdy 540 when its fired up. The issue is only with the engine running.

Sounds like a vibration issue to me, maybe rubber mounts?

[cableguy0]

Tank pressure is usually 150-200psi. Pump cuts off at 200psi. Cant remember pressure pump comes on. Havent had time to dig into it. but I have a bunch of solid things to look for.

[dznucks]

Let us know what you find out.

[Square_78]

Did you even figure this one out? I know its an old thread but I am interested. I would guess maybe the USB cable from the controller to the ECU is pinched or something like that?