driveshaft?

[Dalaigh]

So I just put new 4" lift springs in the front of my truck. It had 4" lift blocks before so I didn't think I would have a driveshaft issue, but here I am.

After installing the leafs my front driveshaft is too short and now I need a longer one. Does anyone know where I can order one, or good places to go. There is a place and hour away from me that can lengthen my driveshaft, but I want to see what it would cost for a new one first so I can compare.

Thanks,

I need some ideas before monday so I can make a decision.

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by Dalaigh

So I just put new 4" lift springs in the front of my truck. It had 4" lift blocks before so I didn't think I would have a driveshaft issue, but here I am.

After installing the leafs my front driveshaft is too short and now I need a longer one. Does anyone know where I can order one, or good places to go. There is a place and hour away from me that can lengthen my driveshaft, but I want to see what it would cost for a new one first so I can compare.

Thanks,

I need some ideas before monday so I can make a decision.

I installed a 4" lift on mine and it does look like both driveshafts are pretty stretched, but it runs fine. However, I, too want to lengthen them. I am probably going to go with a local guy because new driveshafts are pretty expensive. Denny's, Tom Woods, etc are some of the online sources you can check.

[LONGHAIR]

It will definitely cost more to get a new one than to "re-tube" your existing driveshaft....unless you need to have the C/V joint rebuilt.

[Dalaigh]

I don't have to have the C/V joint rebuilt. But I'm told that the shop closest to me, that does great work, won't just extended my driveshift, they rebuilt it completely. Whether I have brand new U-jonts or C/V's or not, and mine are in great condition. So they are pricey compared to other shops, that just extend.

[special-K]

Just go somewhere that cuts the ends off and welds a new tube the proper length. Why fix what ain't broke?

[Dalaigh]

Well after looking at Dennys driveshaft, I can tell you, the better deal is getting a new driveshaft from them. Atleast compared to prices around here. $295+tax (4.5%)from Dennys, and $250-300+tax (13% Ontario Dictatorship tax) from London Driveshaft, but Dennys has a replacement guarantee, and is a brand new unit, built with stonger material. I'm going to try and find another shop locally to make sure London Driveshaft isn't just outragously overpriced.

[oneoff]

I just had a new drive shaft made for a transplanted 402CI BBC I put in my 72. It cost me $190.00. I haven't needed a drive shaft for a long time, however I would think 150.00 would be a great deal and 190 is probably average. I would check around on any quote over $200, unless there's a good enough reason for it.

[turp mcspray]

I had a rear made from Dennys, years ago. Very happy with it. I had it built with a 1330 cv joint on front end, and a 1350 on the rear. If you are looking for something on the cheap, try your local salvage yard. A yard near me has a huge amount of them. It would be easier to shorten a used one that is too long, than to have one re-tubed to make it longer.

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

I had a rear made from Dennys, years ago. Very happy with it. I had it built with a 1330 cv joint on front end, and a 1350 on the rear. If you are looking for something on the cheap, try your local salvage yard. A yard near me has a huge amount of them. It would be easier to shorten a used one that is too long, than to have one re-tubed to make it longer.

Turp, what was the reason you had one built? Did the new 'shaft eliminate all driveline vibrations? I have a little vibration on my freshly-lifted '73 K20 at around 55mph. I was thinking I "shouldn't" have vibrations due to the long wheelbase, but the 4" Rough Country lift is pretty tall. I had to fab a couple of lowering brackets for my E-brake cable, too.

[Dunenutt]

Were your lift blocks tapered? Check your caster/kingpin angle before ordering a new shaft. They sell tapered shims to correct angles, and it makes a big difference in ds length.

[turp mcspray]

At the time I was building my blazer for rockcrawling. I installed a 6" lift and needed a longer rear driveshaft. I figured I would upgrade to 1 ton cv joint and slip yoke. I am self employed, so time spent scouring the driveshaft pile, trying to find something to modify for my application wasn't cost effective. I can spend that time working, and make enough to have one made to my specs. If I was making $10 an hour, it would be a different story. Bottom line is I needed a custom driveshaft, and although rummaging around the junkyard is fun, my time is too valuable to me to go that route.
I didn't have any vibration problems. If your driveshaft is straight, and your u-joints good, I would be looking at your driveshaft angles. If the angles aren't right, a new driveshaft will still vibrate.

[LONGHAIR]

It will also vibrate if it is "out of phase". That is when the u-joints are not aligned with each other.
If you take the 'shaft out of the truck, set it on your workbench so that one of the caps is flat on the table (standing up like a plus sign +) the one on the other end shoud be exactly the same.
Some slip yokes are "keyed" so they can only go one-way.....but not all, don't depend on it to be right. Even one spline off can cause problems.