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10-11-2011, 09:53 PM | #1 |
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Location: Ocean Springs, ms
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body work question
OK so I got a bed for my 65. The old one was BAD!!! But now what do I do. Do I take this down to bare matal or just sand? I started to sand but seems primer will not cover up where old paint was and where bare metal is showing through. At a loss. Help would be awesome
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10-11-2011, 10:02 PM | #2 |
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Re: body work question
Sanding down to bare metal is always a plus but primer should be able to cover the old painted areas as well. What is being used for primer and how many coats have been applied?
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10-11-2011, 10:28 PM | #3 |
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Location: Godley, TX
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Re: body work question
since you have it apart, why not media blast it? Will save hours and hours. Would require a gentle media, like soda or something like that. May not be available in your area - or may be cost prohibitive, but just a suggestion.
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10-11-2011, 10:34 PM | #4 |
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Re: body work question
Better to sand it all the way done so you know what's under there and spray a coat or two of etching primer so surface rust won't be an issue then work it in pieces, spot prime as you go then a final sand and a complete priming of the side.
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10-11-2011, 11:50 PM | #5 |
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Re: body work question
If the old bodywork, filler, and primer are tight, you might just get away with re-priming over them... but that rust will haunt you forever. Take it down to clean metal. no choice on those areas.
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10-12-2011, 12:54 AM | #6 |
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Re: body work question
Get yourself a 4" angle grinder and some of these abrasive discs and you will have it down to bare metal in minutes.
They burn right through bondo and dont hurt the metal..
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10-12-2011, 08:32 AM | #7 |
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Re: body work question
Strip it. I have had stuff media, soda and sand blasted and done like motoimpaired and stripped it with those fiberglass discs. Having it media blasted would be the best bet because the soda won't take all of the bondo off and unless they guy really knows what he is doing sand can be making things worse because of heat. The same goes for the grinder and disc, I use a 9" disc though and you have to get the bigger discs online, be careful about heat so you don't warp your bedside. Good luck!!!
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10-14-2011, 07:50 AM | #8 |
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Location: Ocean Springs, ms
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Re: body work question
I have not primer it at all. Also is I get it sand blasted how long before I have to primer it because the other bed side needs some work?
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10-14-2011, 12:50 PM | #9 |
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Re: body work question
Quick question. Im doing the same to my truck soon. Can i use the spray can primer like from a auto store to spray it as im working little by little or do i need to buy a quart of some primer and spray with compressor?
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10-14-2011, 02:15 PM | #10 |
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Re: body work question
Just my 2 cents, I would take it down to bare metal, that way you find all the surprises under the filler and other peoples body work.
Once you get it down to bare metal spray a coat of Expoy primer (ie:PPG DP40) over it, then you can start sanding and body workin. |
10-14-2011, 05:44 PM | #11 |
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Location: Maryville TN
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Re: body work question
Spray can primer would be expensive but some products do work well. I have used SEM self etching primer on motorcycle projects with excellent results.
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10-14-2011, 11:18 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
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Re: body work question
Once sheetmetal is sand balsted, you need to spray a good quality epoxy primer on it ASAP. Otherwise if surface rust starts, you will have to sand it all off, and then prime it. IMO if you are going to all the work of stripping it down to bare steel, don't cheap out and use spray can primer. It is just not as good as even the cheap automotive primer found in pints,quarts and gallons. Of course you will need an air compressor and a spray gun.
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10-17-2011, 01:33 PM | #13 |
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Re: body work question
I have a pan cake comperssor will that work for shooting primer?
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10-17-2011, 06:32 PM | #14 |
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Re: body work question
Yes the pancake style will work just adjust tank pressure to 100 psi to keep up with what your doing. I used one on a temp basis after our big one died. Even the most expensive spray can primer is not for use over bare steel on a large surface. If I have a small part that I need something like that I use U-Pol Etch primer in spray can form its about 25 bucks a can.
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