4 link ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

7111127 · 11-13-2011, 08:54 PM

i have a 1970 lwb gmc with leaf i puttin a 4 link in it the lower bars gonna be mounted in place of the leaf spring

the space from mount to the axle is about 24 inchs would it be better if i moved it up 2 say like 32 inch's

**lolife99** · 11-16-2011, 08:46 PM

24" should be fine,...

SCOTI · 11-16-2011, 10:39 PM

24" will work but longer bars should offer a better ride.

fuzzy1nickels · 11-17-2011, 02:43 PM

I am getting ready to set up my 4-bar as well. I had a question on the fabrication side of it though. Do I need to pull my axles before welding on the axle tubes? or is it common practice to burn in brackets with the axle and fluids still in the housing?

SCOTI · 11-17-2011, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuzzy1nickels

I am getting ready to set up my 4-bar as well. I had a question on the fabrication side of it though. Do I need to pull my axles before welding on the axle tubes? or is it common practice to burn in brackets with the axle and fluids still in the housing?

This is one of those things where if you ask 6 different people, you'll get 6 different answers (opinions). You can definitely weld w/the axles in place & the housing full off lube.

I would make sure to minimize heat soak & change the fluid when your done for sure.

fuzzy1nickels · 11-18-2011, 12:56 PM

Thanks,
If it's reccomended to change the fluid after welding any ways, then I'll probably drain it first, and if I'm that far might as well pull the c-clips and pull out the axle. (need to look into c-clip eliminators as the BB like to rip stuff up with stupid amounts of torque)

SCOTI · 11-18-2011, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuzzy1nickels

Thanks,
If it's reccomended to change the fluid after welding any ways, then I'll probably drain it first, and if I'm that far might as well pull the c-clips and pull out the axle. (need to look into c-clip eliminators as the BB like to rip stuff up with stupid amounts of torque)

A few spot welds where the axle tubes seat into the center section doesn't hurt either as long as the heat isn't excessive.

fuzzy1nickels · 12-05-2011, 02:24 PM

I was looking ahead at my 4-bar some more and curious about a few angles that the coil overs need to be set up at.

1. What angle in reference to the frame rail is ideal?

2. What angle in reference to the tail gate is ideal?

As of now I am trying to sort out the truck so that it is running about 35* anti-squat for cruising and road races, and 100* anti-squat out on the strip (maybe more or less if any one has a better suggestion). I am not spring savy enough to know the exact angles. I understand that a stock truck runs about a 30-45* angle with the shocks relative to the tailgate, but the shocks are vertical, I am not sure how a coil over effects the sum of the forces involved. Thanks for the help.

11-13-2011, 08:54 PM	#1
7111127 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Coweta Oklahoma Posts: 56	4 link ? i have a 1970 lwb gmc with leaf i puttin a 4 link in it the lower bars gonna be mounted in place of the leaf spring the space from mount to the axle is about 24 inchs would it be better if i moved it up 2 say like 32 inch's

11-16-2011, 08:46 PM	#2
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,700	Re: 4 link ? 24" should be fine,... __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

11-16-2011, 10:39 PM	#3
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,068	Re: 4 link ? 24" will work but longer bars should offer a better ride. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

11-17-2011, 02:43 PM	#4
fuzzy1nickels Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Weatherford, TX Posts: 15	Re: 4 link ? I am getting ready to set up my 4-bar as well. I had a question on the fabrication side of it though. Do I need to pull my axles before welding on the axle tubes? or is it common practice to burn in brackets with the axle and fluids still in the housing?

11-18-2011, 12:56 PM	#6
fuzzy1nickels Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Weatherford, TX Posts: 15	Re: 4 link ? Thanks, If it's reccomended to change the fluid after welding any ways, then I'll probably drain it first, and if I'm that far might as well pull the c-clips and pull out the axle. (need to look into c-clip eliminators as the BB like to rip stuff up with stupid amounts of torque)

12-05-2011, 02:24 PM	#8
fuzzy1nickels Registered User Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Weatherford, TX Posts: 15	Re: 4 link ? I was looking ahead at my 4-bar some more and curious about a few angles that the coil overs need to be set up at. 1. What angle in reference to the frame rail is ideal? 2. What angle in reference to the tail gate is ideal? As of now I am trying to sort out the truck so that it is running about 35* anti-squat for cruising and road races, and 100* anti-squat out on the strip (maybe more or less if any one has a better suggestion). I am not spring savy enough to know the exact angles. I understand that a stock truck runs about a 30-45* angle with the shocks relative to the tailgate, but the shocks are vertical, I am not sure how a coil over effects the sum of the forces involved. Thanks for the help.



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