64 C10 shaved side drip rails in front of door

[allaboutchevelles]

Anyone shave there side drip rail in front of the door. Any info on this and pics would be great.

[cb1965]

from what ive read in the past it creates a wider gap than the rest of the door if you remove the rail. maybe if you cut it flush?

[allaboutchevelles]

I heard alot of people are using a welding rod to fill the gap but I need to see some pics of this being done. That seems like alot of work to make it look right.

[rbar]

I am not sure what I think about the look.

[allaboutchevelles]

I think that looks good. Nice choice on color also. My main concern is the drip rails being a rust trap.

[rbar]

I'm also wondering if it changes the air coming across the door, worse or better, or noiser.

[allaboutchevelles]

I know someone else ask that same question somewhere on here. I would think if you have new weather stripping that you wouldnt get wind noise inside the cab but I could be wrong.

[69burban]

Mine are shaved, but they were done when I bought it, so not sure how they did it. The weather strip is new, and wind noise isn't too bad at all. Loudest noise in the truck is the whistling vent window LOL!

[rbar]

Nice truck. Do you think the whistling vent is increased due to the drip rail being shaved?

[markeb01]

To eliminate the potential rust issue, I completely filled the lower portions of the gutter using Evercoat Maxim self-leveling seam sealer. This way the water just runs off instead of sitting in a channel with no way to drain. The nice part is it can be applied with a standard caulking gun. Many of the other brands of professional grade sealant require an expensive specialized application gun. Here's how it looked on mine before the paint went on. Sorry I don’t have a good picture of the front:

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by allaboutchevelles

I think that looks good. Nice choice on color also. My main concern is the drip rails being a rust trap.

an entirte 60-66 is already a rust trap!!- looking at the pic of the red one, it looks like water would run down in between the door and hinge pillar, with that , probably make sure the hinges stay lubed, and check the area where the fender meets the rocker, those would probably be your problem areas....
the rain gutter is only hedd on with 4-6 spot welds to the pillar , so it would be relatively easy to remove, and re-install if you did not like the look.

Originally Posted by markeb01

To eliminate the potential rust issue, I completely filled the lower portions of the gutter using Evercoat Maxim self-leveling seam sealer. This way the water just runs off instead of sitting in a channel with no way to drain. The nice part is it can be applied with a standard caulking gun. Many of the other brands of professional grade sealant require an expensive specialized application gun. Here's how it looked on mine before the paint went on. Sorry I don’t have a good picture of the front:

how long has it been and how has that sealer held up? the price of the pro gun has stopped me from getting the other stuff a couple times...

[brokenspoke]

When I did my repaint. I removed the vertical drip rails ....no wind noise. no leaks

[rbar]

I just noticed the february issue of classic trucks has an orange two tone without the vertical drip rail. I can't post that pic right at the moment though. You might be able to see it on their web site.
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[allaboutchevelles]

im looking at that truck in the feb. issue right now. It looks good with them removed. I just wonder what he did to fill the gap if anything.

[scottofksu]

Originally Posted by markeb01

To eliminate the potential rust issue, I completely filled the lower portions of the gutter using Evercoat Maxim self-leveling seam sealer. This way the water just runs off instead of sitting in a channel with no way to drain. The nice part is it can be applied with a standard caulking gun. Many of the other brands of professional grade sealant require an expensive specialized application gun. Here's how it looked on mine before the paint went on. Sorry I don’t have a good picture of the front:

I like your idea, but I'd be concerned that the paint in that area would crack... That is, won't the seam sealer you used expand and contract at a much greater rate than metal, depending on the weather? That's a lot to ask of a paint (to stick to something that expands and contracts so much), isn't it?

[c.brown]

im glad you asked this i tried before didnt get a good response i took mine off before having my body blasted easy to remove with spot weld remover saved mine incase of issues but sounds like its going to be ok thanks

[Budman56]

I removed both the drip rails on the side post and the roof.
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[Jake65]

(Markeb01) Where did you buy the seam sealer, and how did you keep the sealer level on the spots where the drip rail slopes down towards the front?

[69burban]

Originally Posted by rbar

Nice truck. Do you think the whistling vent is increased due to the drip rail being shaved?

Nah just bad seals on the vent window, it's just the passenger side.

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

how long has it been and how has that sealer held up? the price of the pro gun has stopped me from getting the other stuff a couple times...

I painted the truck in July 2009, so about 2 ½ years ago. I just went out in the garage and looked at the gutter and it looks exactly like it did when I painted it. There’s no checking, weathering, or shrinkage.

Originally Posted by scottofksu

I like your idea, but I'd be concerned that the paint in that area would crack... That is, won't the seam sealer you used expand and contract at a much greater rate than metal, depending on the weather? That's a lot to ask of a paint (to stick to something that expands and contracts so much), isn't it?

I’ve had this problem with older sealers, but since this stuff is urethane it doesn’t really seem to expand and contract any perceivable amount (although it is listed as permanently flexible). It just bonds to the channel like epoxy and doesn’t let go. It’s not gooey at all. Hard pressure with the tip of a fingernail leaves a micro impression on the surface which seems to be in the enamel paint that does not appear to extend into the sealer.

Originally Posted by Jake65

(Markeb01) Where did you buy the seam sealer, and how did you keep the sealer level on the spots where the drip rail slopes down towards the front?

I purchased mine from Autobodystore.com. I gained tons of knowledge from the forum on this site back in 1998 when I first painted the truck in lacquer, and even bought my Satajet 90 spray gun from them at a serious discount. The owner is personally involved and offers excellent advice and training videos. I’ve been painting cars 2-3 a year since 1966, so I have a decent amount of experience but figured some updated input couldn’t hurt. Here are a couple of links to the sealer.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...Category_Code=

http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/pis/PIS...v%20122010.pdf

Although it’s self-leveling, it goes off pretty fast (5-10) minutes so it doesn’t require continuous attention to keep in place. I did place the truck on jack stands to provide the best level of the gutter possible. As best I remember I placed a couple of removable dams to control the flow, pulled them immediately when satisfied and continued around the channel. I also taped off the roof surface just inboard of the gutter, along with the outer face of the gutter so I wouldn’t have to clean up any mistakes. I used disposable gloves for any additional smoothing. I had a stack of popsicle sticks and tongue depressors on hand in case I needed them but don’t remember if any got used or not.

[Jake65]

Thanks for the Info on the sealer, i will definitely check that out.