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04-30-2003, 12:23 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 22
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Final Lowering Questions
Alrighty, I know these questions have been asked 100+ times, but not in one post. Please don't flame for the search thing, I have but no one wants the same drop that I am wanting.
Here is a list, I want to know if I am missing anything, or if I should do something different. This is all for a 70 chevy with 72 frame and suspension. ============== 1) Front Bag kit from Air Ride Tech. 2) BellTech 3" Lowering Spindles 3) Rear Bag Kit from Air Ride Tech. 4) Rear Shock Relocators 5) Panhard Rod (track bar, as some people call it) ============== Alright couple questions now: 1) What shocks for the best ride? 2) What length of Adjustable Panhard Rod? Classic has two differnt lengths. 3) Do I need to notch the frame? Some people said yes, but it was never listed in other post of "what should I do first?". 4) Do the tanks and everything come with the kits? If not, what do I need to get. Thanks daniel |
05-01-2003, 09:15 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 22
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ttt
Ok I found out that you have to measure the axle height from the ground minus the possible drop. The axle at variance is around 4" in diameter. The only thing that I do not know is how low can the bags take it? 7" is my guess, but I am trying to figure out if that is possible or not. |
05-01-2003, 06:35 PM | #3 |
chevelito
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Honolulu, HI USA
Posts: 1,609
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you are gonna need an air management system (solenoids,tanks,switches etc)
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New deadline...when my son can drive. Aloha from Honolulu, HI |
05-01-2003, 10:26 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,080
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A brief novel??
Most bags for the rear of these trucks(2000-2500#) will be about 9/10" @ full extension & 3" minimum (they recommend no less than 3" to prevent chafing of the bag internals). Mine are @ approx 4-5", 30-35psi @ ride height.
The axle diameter on 67-72's is 3" tubes. You can get away w/o using a c-section for starters, but should plan on adding one later (especially if you add lowering blocks). You will need to remove the factory rear bumpstops so it won't be constantly bottoming out. The longer the panhard bar/track bar, the less drastic the arc of travel is for the suspension. That being said, I currently use the shorter adjustable one & it works just fine for me. If I did it over, I would get the longer bar. As far as shocks, get the best you can afford. The shocks included in Air-Ride kits are just repainted Gabes/Monroes w/ART stickers on them. Check the part #'s & they'll be the same as what you can get in the parts store (unless ART has recently changed). I like the HAL adjustables, but to be honest, I haven't priced them . . ... so, I use standard length HD Gaberiels f/r. I modified the original rear shock mounts to regain some of the travel lost from the drop (I gained about 2.5"). One thing to watch for . . .... @ 6+" of rear drop, the driveshaft will start getting r e a l l y close to the crossmember hoop. Mine is about a 5/7 drop & I hammer the bottom of my bed floor daily & buzzed that hoop once or twice. Good luck!
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
05-02-2003, 01:50 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 22
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Thanks for the help guys.
I am going to have to watch that driveshaft closely then, I just put a 700R4 in the truck and had to get a shorter drivshaft. The fact that it has a long tailshaft will change the angle of the shaft at the loop. I might not be able to take it as low as I want for a while until I figure something out. As for the panhard rod, I will go with the longer adjustable one, this will make it easier for future changes. I have the coil system, so I wont be adding any blocks, just bags. Thanks again. |
05-02-2003, 08:53 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,080
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Your right about the driveshaft angle w/the longer drivetrane length.
As far as rear lowering blocks, my truck was also coils. I replaced them w/bags & used blocks as well. Bags alone won't get you past 4-5" of drop (unless you run them w/o any air psi). The short panhard bar is as adjustable as the longer bar, but since mine is as low as it is, the bar is actually running @ an incline from the frame bracket to the pumpkin. The longer bar would allow less pitch/arc when moving throughout it's range.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
05-02-2003, 09:16 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 22
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Did you put a sway bar on the front? I don't think that it would need one, but just curious.
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05-02-2003, 11:12 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,080
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I have a stock front 1 1/16" bar off of a 73-87 model w/Energy Suspension greaseable urethane bushings.
Out back, I have independent control of each bag & haven't have any problems w/air transferring from side-to-side & don't feel a bar is needed. I use mine to tow an 18ft trailer & don't have issues w/stability.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
05-02-2003, 06:48 PM | #9 |
454 club
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,348
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scoti, how big of an air tank did you use.
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05-02-2003, 07:46 PM | #10 |
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Location: DALLAS,TX
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I'm just using a 3 gallon tank from AirRide. I don't usually play w/the settings though. I leave it low all the time & just add air when I hook up the car trailer to level it out.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
05-04-2003, 01:19 PM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 461
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thought i would add my 2 cents: if you are going for the full lay frame look when you drop the bags, reconsider. it is much safer to adjust the full drop height to compensate for the scrub line, that is, if your tire is flat ad it's dropped, you can still drive it without it scraping the ground. just a word of advice. good luck! take lots of pics too!
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05-10-2003, 04:19 AM | #12 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 22
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I plan on this being a long project. Guess it's time to get started.
Thanx Everyone. |
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