Frame Options, Need Advice

[danheit]

Hey guys, I know this has been talked about over and over, but I just sold my running driving '55 TF, and am left with my project cab and front sheet metal. I am trying to figure out which later model truck frame will be the best and easiest bet with the least amount of fab work needed. I don't want to have to cut down a frame, narrow it, or anything of the like. Now, thankfully, trucks are plentiful in my area, so I have lots to chose from. Here are my current options to put my 1955 2nd series body, front clip and bed on:

67-72 half ton short bed
73-87 half ton short bed
s10 short bed
s10 extended cab short bed

other options?

My plan is to have IFS, v8 power auto trans, power steering and somewhat more modern reliablity on a budget of about $1200. I can purchase any one of those trucks listed above, running, for about $500.

Like I said though, I don't want to do any frame mods to get there though. I am fine with welding in new body mounts though. Thanks guys!

[booger1949]

well o boy if your not lookin for a bunch of fab work non of those will work, an can i ask why u got rid of your frame an not put a ifs frontend on it an change the rearend, that would have been the end of that

[mr48chev]

It's going to take fabrication but I'd probably go with the 67/72 or 73/88 Chassis. There is no free lunch in these deals and you have to be willing to work and fabricate to make it work right.
The 67/69 are closer in tread width to 56 while the later chassis have a wider tread.

I know the S-10 stuff is the fix all for anything at the moment but that will leave you with a tread width that is way too narrow for the 56 with the tires sitting way back in the fender wells.

It you weren't on the far side of the world I think my buddy still has a 56 frame with a Trans Am subframe and rear end installed that he had done for a customer and still has.

[meter swinger]

The squarebody frame will work. Allbeit with some work and cost.
I have a 78 swb and a 59 swb. I havent pulled the wheels off to measure but best i can tell the squares are about 4.5" wider in the front. The c-10s gained 3/4" per side in 71 when they went to disc front brakes. So a drum brake c-10 front would be about 3 3/4" wider than a TF. CPP makes a modular drop spindle that narrows the c-10 track 3/4" per side. Then offcourse the PB dropmember gives 2" drop/ 2" narrowed/ 1" forward if you want to spend the $$$.
A buddy of mine has a 56 gmc on an 81 c-10 frame. His front wheels stick out past the wheel wells and the rear is tight but fits. as with anything, the ride hight you are wanting and the wheel style/offset a lot to do with it.
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[_Ogre]

your best bet is to get a 55-59 frame and ifs it.
there are a couple of nice 55-59 frame swaps in this forum (and a couple of horrid frame swaps)
but they all require quite a lot of fabrication.
used frames are cheap and the body bolts right on

[danheit]

So today I secured a 1989 Chevy 1500 with a 383 Race Motor, lowered with a stepside bed to use as a donor for my cab. Full on built drivetrain with A/C. Hoping that the frame isn't too wide to be able to use, otherwise I will be doing some SERIOUS fab work. The nice part is I am getting it all for $800. Can't beat that!

Buying it from our police impound, it was used in a bank robbery, out ran all the police cars chasing it. Happened to catch the guy days later driving the truck around.

[OrrieG]

I think any of the later model frame require modifications in the step area and bed because they are wider. For $800 you can take some measurements, see if it works and if not at least you have an engine, trans and rear drive train as a start. If it was mine I would start with a 58-59 frame and do a camaro clip and leave the springs on the rear. No hassles with the cab or bed and core and bumper support have already been figured out by thousands of guys, many on this site. Gets it reasonably low.