From HEI to Points

[azsnow]

Before I get a hundred no don't do it replys, I must do this because the HEI doesn't clear the firewall and I am not getting any spark from it, so before I start tossing money in it to find out why, I just need to get the damn truck running already. I will change it to breakerless ignition once its running and I have the money to do so.

While buying the parts today, the guy told me a ballast is not required, yet I have always ran one. I bought the distributor/coil, ect for a 70 Camaro w/duel points...so the question is ballast...needed or not?

[msgross]

you could go with a standard distributer with an electronic ignition inside of it.

sounds like you are set on points though... they also make smaller HEI's...

sorry I can't answer your question but I wanted to throw two more options out there..

[azsnow]

Yeah I know of the other options, and I appreciate your input, but my main issue at this point is money! I got everything I needed including a new distributor for $80. I have to get this truck going before my apartment complex tags it to be towed!

[Speedbumpauto]

There ALWAYS needs to be a voltage drop for breaker point style systems in the "run" position. Earlier vehicles used a resistor and later ones used a resistance wire in the "on" position from the ignition switch to the coil +. If you have 12V to the coil + in the "on" position(which HEI wants) you need to reduce the voltage to around 9V in "run" and 12V in "start".(usaully a wire directly from the solenoid S terminal to coil +) There are a few aftermarket coils that will eleminate the need for a voltage drop by increasing their internal resistance in the primary circuit, but they almost always state that in their installation instructions. By the way, the Pertronix stand alone electronic distributor uses a cap the same diminsions as the old Chevy distributors. Saved my bacon on a tunnel ram/firewall problem once.

[booger1949]

just get a coil with the built in resistor an youll b fine

[azsnow]

Ok, so one problem after another...I just swapped out my NAPA ignition switch for an original V8 model, so now how do I wire it up as there is no "start" tab on the back like there was on the NAPA one...any ideas? Anyone want to finish this for me!

[Speedbumpauto]

If you have an ohmmeter, you can hold the switch in the start position and find out which tab has continuity from your B+ terminal. That will be start to solenoid. Or with power hooked up, hold it in start and use a test light to see which terminal lights up. That will be start.

[48 GMC BURB]

If it's not too late you could get a mallory unilite..I used then for years in vetts with tac drive distributors

Originally Posted by azsnow

Before I get a hundred no don't do it replys, I must do this because the HEI doesn't clear the firewall and I am not getting any spark from it, so before I start tossing money in it to find out why, I just need to get the damn truck running already. I will change it to breakerless ignition once its running and I have the money to do so.

While buying the parts today, the guy told me a ballast is not required, yet I have always ran one. I bought the distributor/coil, ect for a 70 Camaro w/duel points...so the question is ballast...needed or not?

[Russell Ashley]

If you have a correct switch for a V8 truck it should have a start tab. Wish I was closer, I'd be happy to give you a hand with it.

[azsnow]

Yeah I have the corrsect switch, but dont remember seeing a starter tab, there are 2 ignition tabs, acc tabs, and thats it...I will look later and perhaps post a pic.