Newbie bagger

[ReggaeRider]

I scored a long bed 66 last year , with what i hope is the original 289 in it . I would like to bag her ...But i am new to the bagging scene . I had a 89 chevy that i lowered ... 4 up front and 8 in the rear , so lowering a truck is not new to me . Its the bagging that I am not used to. I would like to use this truck to haul my trailer and also ride down the highway looking low and lean. To accomidate my need to haul, what size air bags do i need up front and in the rear. Not wanting to cut out fender wells or nothing or remove fender wells . I dont really need to lay frame. but if i can with out cutting up the truck cool...(but I really Doubt it). Where is the best site to find good quality bags and tanks and pumps...is there a step by step how to on this site , with pics lol.....Really want to be able to utilize the truck as a truck but look good doing it...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by ReggaeRider

I scored a long bed 66 last year , with what i hope is the original 289 in it . I would like to bag her ...But i am new to the bagging scene . I had a 89 chevy that i lowered ... 4 up front and 8 in the rear , so lowering a truck is not new to me . Its the bagging that I am not used to. I would like to use this truck to haul my trailer and also ride down the highway looking low and lean. To accomidate my need to haul, what size air bags do i need up front and in the rear. Not wanting to cut out fender wells or nothing or remove fender wells . I dont really need to lay frame. but if i can with out cutting up the truck cool...(but I really Doubt it). Where is the best site to find good quality bags and tanks and pumps...is there a step by step how to on this site , with pics lol.....Really want to be able to utilize the truck as a truck but look good doing it...

Ride Tech or Porterbuilt products get you low & allow using the truck as a truck.

[N2TRUX]

Welcome to the site ReggaeRider. You don't have to cut your truck up to run a basic air suspension. You can lower the front with bags and spindles, then set your bump stops to bottom out before your hit your stock fenerliners. You can run bags and a small c-notch in the rear with the stops set to put your pumpkin right below the bed floor.

I recommend you read through the posts in this forum and familiarize yourself with air suspension. Once you have a better comprehension of what will fit your needs, we can give you more details.

[andrewmp6]

I think you mean 283 because a 289 is a ford engine.But look around on http://www.ridetech.com/store/trucks...hash=V259.V328 or http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.co...eluxe-Kit-1650 and http://www.porterbuiltfabrication.co...arting-at-1049 either way will get you pretty low tho.Only question i have is how much play time do you want or a simple slam it to park and raise it up to drive it?Easy way to look at it more play time bigger air tank and compressor needed.

[ReggaeRider]

ooops andrew , ok 283 . none the less. I will play more than work. Hauling a trailer to pull a small car or a few motorcycles is what im looking for. It will be a daily driver . thanks for the links i will definetly look at them and familiarize my self wth the different bags.

Also would i need to change my a arm up front or can it be bagged wth the stock. i hve seen the tubular arms...would that be some thing that i would need,....whats the pros and cons . Thanx guys...anymore ideas please throw them my way...nothing like talking wth ppl who hve been there

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by ReggaeRider

ooops andrew , ok 283 . none the less. I will play more than work. Hauling a trailer to pull a small car or a few motorcycles is what im looking for. It will be a daily driver . thanks for the links i will definetly look at them and familiarize my self wth the different bags.

Also would i need to change my a arm up front or can it be bagged wth the stock. i hve seen the tubular arms...would that be some thing that i would need,....whats the pros and cons . Thanx guys...anymore ideas please throw them my way...nothing like talking wth ppl who hve been there

The original style a-arms can be used w/o issue. Depending on how low you're trying to get, they can be a limitation.

Aftermarket tubular arms can offer better geometry which yields better driveability. How much better is prob subjective so you have to weigh in the purchase cost when deciding if they're necessary.

On extreme drops, the wheels are no longer centered in the wheel-well opening. This is another area where the 'right' aftermarket a-arms will be better (not all aftermarket arms change the wheel base).

[ReggaeRider]

not tryin to lay frame...just low enuff to look nice. I think ill stick wth oem a-arms...

[Pro Performance]

Welcome!

You can definitely do an air ride system that can handle typical towing needs, and allow you to have that adjustable suspension. It can be done with the stock arms, like the guys said, but it all depends on budget and how far you want to take it.

For example, I did an under bed setup on my C10, and bagged the front using just aftermarket controls arms. No Z'd frame, or drop member.... adding a drop member definitely has it's advantages though.

If you would like, give me a call and we can discuss your plans for the truck in detail and I can give you some options for air bagging your truck and what will work best for your application and goals. We are a dealer for many suspension companies, both bagged and static drops.

Travis
480-420-8175
www.azproperformance.com (under construction)

[andrewmp6]

What i mean play time is every time you hit a switch to raise or lower it takes air,So if your going to be showing off playing with the switches you might want a 5 gallon air tank.But for a simple just drop it to park and raise it back up to drive a 3 gallon air tank will do.Yeah they do sell brackets to put air bags on your stock a arms but if you can swing the cash aftermarket a arms can do a lot for you and get you lower too.

[ReggaeRider]

Ok andrew...i thank u for that info. Do i need to change upper and lower A-arms or just lower. and are all bags the same in diameter and height....is there a specific bag size for trucks

[Pro Performance]

There isn't a specific bag for our trucks, but most all bags will work. Bags are universal fit and have different diameters and length of travel. Some have more travel, some less. For example, a smaller diameter bag requires more pressure to lift, where a larger diameter is the opposite. Contitechs are great bags, as well as the Dominators.

As for arms, it is a good idea to do both, as they will work together to correct the geometry and ball joint angles through the travel of the arms.

[ReggaeRider]

street.. in your first post u mentioned zd frame and drop member....what are those and explain there use

[ReggaeRider]

Im sorry guys if im full of questions...if it was just a simple drop i would be good, but the bags ...and the diff sizes and ....who makes the best or who makes a good bag for the money is my search...also the speed of the up and down motion ...as well as do i need 4 corner action or front and back is good. Question Questions Questions ...lol

[Pro Performance]

No problem on the questions, myself and everyone on the forum will be glad to help you out. If you would like, give me a call and I can go over everything with you, as it might be easier than typing. You can call 480-420-8175.... even today if you want, and I will go over it all.

Basically, a drop member will allow you truck to sit lower. This is because, the stock cross member is the first thing to hit in the front when bagging a truck. They hang down quite far on the C10's. So, an aftermarket one is shallower and raised up to allow more clearance and let the truck lay down further. A drop member is show below.


A Z'd frame, basically moves all the suspension up by raising the frame section in that area. I have shown a picture below of a Z'd frame.



Again, don't hesitate to call me with questions. Even today if you want to give me a call.

- Travis

[Pro Performance]

You will want an 8-valve setup. That will keep air pressure from transferring in between bags when cornering. Some people only run a 6-valve, and tie the 2 rear bags together because the weight is less. But to do it right, you will want 8-valves.

As for speed. I found that 3/8" is plenty fast for raising and lowering the truck, but it all depends on your preference. 1/4" will be fine, it just raises and lowers slower because of the smaller line.

[ReggaeRider]

So whats better or cheaper a kit or piecing my parts one by one

[andrewmp6]

Try pming street3285 he sells everything but can't openly list prices but he can in pm.

[ReggaeRider]

Oh yeah thanx andrew...i have been chatting with that guy for a little via phone and email...

[DLOE65]

Manual valves are a easy and affordable air management system to run too.
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[ReggaeRider]

dloe65...expln to me the diff between manual and the automatic....looks like with the manual in order to dump or lift u either do one at a time or use both hands to dump or lift front or rear or left side and then right side...am i correct.

[ReggaeRider]

also Dloe 65 i just rear your year long build. is that thing done ? when I saw that engine color it reminded me of the big wheel i rode as a kid...mean green machine or somethng like that. awesome color choice. You make me want to tear mine down ....

[DLOE65]

Thanks! Not done yet, I am shooting for around Sept to be up and running..
Well the manual valves will work the same way as the electric valves except you would need to run your airlines to the panel, on electric valves you just have to run your electrical wires to your panel or switchbox..

As far as how they operate, typically you have front left and front right switches next to each other, then you use two fingers to lift/lower the front then the rear. You don't usually lower or lift the front/rear at the same time because the front and rear have different weights so they will lift lower at different speeds.

Hope this helps..
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[Pro Performance]

I saw your valves and those are pretty trick for a manual setup. Nice.... I like it.

If going electric, you can also run the larger line (3/8" or 1/2"), which will allow the truck to raise and lower quicker. Not that 1/4" manual is bad, just wanted to point out that difference. You can run 3/8" line everyone else, but the fill and dump will be slower when going through the 1/4" manual valve.

[ReggaeRider]

ok lets talk cost then....And dloe65 ,thanx for clearing that up ...Newbie bagger

[mikey882]

Hi there.....I'm new here but I do have over a decade experience in air suspension. I install professionally in the Chicagoland area and would be happy to share any tips and tricks. The manual valves are really cool and simple if you're not concerned with speed, the 1/2" valves and line are dramatically faster, and my recommendation is a 3/8" setup. 3/8" air line is by far easier to run yet not as easy to kink as 1/4 or 5/16 tube. Also, I would like to know what sort of budget you are allowing for. I have been very pleased with the AccuAir manifold and have installed quite a few of them. I have yet to receive any complaints! Regarding tank size and air supply......you may want to look into Viair's dual packs on their compressors. Prices are pretty reasonable....... I would also recommend a 100% duty @ 200 psi. This will allow you to make more efficient use of a smaller tank because you are packing more air into a given space than you would at a lower pressure. You definitely have some space for tanks......and tanks are easily one of the cheaper pieces in the air suspension system. I would like to recommend a minimum of a 5 gallon tank......and I would try to fit 2 of them if you have the space. Most people can get by with 1 compressor and a 3 or 5 gallon tank........but if you want more play time and shorter recharge times then you're gonna need more. With a lone 3 gallon tank in the system, you don't have much air on reserve, and the compressor will switch on nearly every time you mildly play with the switches.

I hope I've been clear in what I've said......
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