U joint doesn't fit in the yoke anymore ...

[Iceman_70]

I took apart my drive shaft to clean and paint, and now when I'm assembling it again, I can't get the U joint in the yoke anymore ...

When I measure the width of the u joint, it's 1,5mm (a bit less then 1/16") wider then the room between the 2 holding clips of the yoke ...

I marked every part when I removed it, to be sure everything goes back the way it was ...

Any suggestions on how to get it back in ?

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Did you take the caps off the U-joint while you were cleaning it?
If so, my guess is there's one needle laying in the end of one cap.

[Iceman_70]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Did you take the caps off the U-joint while you were cleaning it?
If so, my guess is there's one needle laying in the end of one cap.

Originally Posted by papastrk

Yep. Roller bearing has fallen down in cap.

nope ... checked that ... there are no needles out of place ... I even scrapped off the dirty grease on the inside of the caps to make sure they fully slide on.
The sides that have to go in the yoke are as wide as those going in the drive shaft, and these fit ...

looks like the yoke shrank ...

[papastrk]

Yep. Roller bearing has fallen down in cap.

[mr48chev]

If you clamped the yoke in a vise when you changed the other side of the joint you may have squeezed the sides in a bit.

Two things a guy learns not to do with driveshafts is to clamp either the yoke or tube in a vise and squeeze down on them. The yokes squeeze in too easily and the tubes get dented too easily.

I don't really have a fix except to go back and check everything including taking a caliper to the cross and making sure that it is correct as far as the specs go.
I had to go back and read your original post and it appears that the cross is the same one that was in the yoke before.

[Iceman_70]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

If you clamped the yoke in a vise when you changed the other side of the joint you may have squeezed the sides in a bit.

Two things a guy learns not to do with driveshafts is to clamp either the yoke or tube in a vise and squeeze down on them. The yokes squeeze in too easily and the tubes get dented too easily.

I don't really have a fix except to go back and check everything including taking a caliper to the cross and making sure that it is correct as far as the specs go.
I had to go back and read your original post and it appears that the cross is the same one that was in the yoke before.

thanks for the feedback .. I guess I can throw this away, and have to order a new one ...

[Speedbumpauto]

You might be able to spread that yoke back out enough to make it work by using a 3/4"(20mm) fine thread bolt and nut, or bigger if you have it. Put a couple of pieces of flat stock plate over the holes where the U joint would go and cut the bolt so it it just long enough to fit between the metal plates on the inside of the yoke. Put the nut on the bolt past the end of the bolt threads so the bolt/nut will fit inbetween the metal plates inside the yoke. Then, with two wrenches, start turning the nut like you're taking it off the bolt. The mechanical advantage of the threads acts like a vise in reverse. It takes a little manuvering around and sometimes two people(four hands) but you can spread that yoke back out a little. When you get it spread out a little bit more than the minimum you need, heat it up with a propane torch or other heat source. Don't get it red hot but get it hot throughly and let it cool. This has worked for me before. If you find you need slightly more room for the joint, you can also VERY CAREFULLY use a belt sander to sand the lock rings to about 1/2 thier thickness and they will still install and work. I've learned this stuff because I have been in your situation when learning the in's and out's of U joints. It can be fixed....and....if you mess it up trying, it was already junk when you started.

[OrrieG]

I've used all-thread with a couple of nuts and washers to make a backyard "spreader" too. Requires less hands.

[Iceman_70]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

You might be able to spread that yoke back out enough to make it work by using a 3/4"(20mm) fine thread bolt and nut, or bigger if you have it. Put a couple of pieces of flat stock plate over the holes where the U joint would go and cut the bolt so it it just long enough to fit between the metal plates on the inside of the yoke. Put the nut on the bolt past the end of the bolt threads so the bolt/nut will fit inbetween the metal plates inside the yoke. Then, with two wrenches, start turning the nut like you're taking it off the bolt. The mechanical advantage of the threads acts like a vise in reverse. It takes a little manuvering around and sometimes two people(four hands) but you can spread that yoke back out a little. When you get it spread out a little bit more than the minimum you need, heat it up with a propane torch or other heat source. Don't get it red hot but get it hot throughly and let it cool. This has worked for me before. If you find you need slightly more room for the joint, you can also VERY CAREFULLY use a belt sander to sand the lock rings to about 1/2 thier thickness and they will still install and work. I've learned this stuff because I have been in your situation when learning the in's and out's of U joints. It can be fixed....and....if you mess it up trying, it was already junk when you started.

Thanks for the tip ... will see if I can work on it this weekend ...