Install question

[2wdBlazer]

How tough is it to replace springs on a coil truck? Just wondering if I can install a 2/4 drop myself. Would I need to remove the spindals or will the drop low enough to remove the spring? Any tips on this or the rear?

[cdowns]

you dont have to remove the spindles but you do have to seperate 1ball joint from the spindle to install the spring, i like seperating the upper ball joint to install springs

[68LSS1]

Rear is easy also. Put a jack under the differential and jack it as high as your jack will go. Now place jack stands under the axle tubes. If your jack doesn't take the frame high enough (you want the suspension extended all the way down, but off the ground) you may have to place the jack underneath the lower spring perch and jack one side at a time. Put jack under spring perch with tension off spring, remove the bolts from the lower spring perch (the nut is part of the peice that retains the bottom of the spring so you don't need to hold it), slowly let jack down, swap spring and reassemble. Do yourself a favor and start squirting the bolts with Kroil/LPS/ a couple days before you start. Especially if you don't have a impact. I have had on one occasion where the "nut" stripped out. You can get some washers, a nut to fit the bolt (and another bolt if need be) from a hardware store until you can get the spring retainer replaced.

[68LSS1]

I just noticed your from Ruskin. I am in Valrico. I've got a compressor and stuff if you need a hand drop me a line.

[2wdBlazer]

Will do. I am getting this thing back in running condition after sitting 2 years. Once I get a new carb and tires for my Rally's, I'll get with you on the springs. Thanks.

-Kris

[COBALT]

You can replace the front coils without popping a ball joint loose. It involves putting your floor jack up tight against the lower A-arm center bars, and unbolting the U-bolts that hold it to the cross member. Then you get behind a big metal desk or something, lean around, and let the air out of your jack SLOWLY. The A-arm will fall away from the center bar, and your coils will fall out.

Piece-o-cake.

The rear can be tough - only because those brackets that hold the coil to the frame and to the trailing arm can rust, and cause those bolts to sieze up in the trailing arms.

I lubed them down good, but I could only get one side loose. I had to use a dremel tool inside the driver's side coil and cut the bracket ears off to get the spring to pop loose. It was a nightmare.

While you're doing this you might as well replace your trailing arm bushings. That's just my opinion. You might consider just doing the entire rear-end spuspension: new panhard bar bushings, new U-bolts, new bumpers, new hardware (bolts, nuts, coil brackets, etc.).

[Brad]

Cobalt, although the method you described for the control arms will work, I feel that it's much safer to do it the other way if they need to be bolted up again.
With the ball joint method, a person has only to deal with the ball joint stud and nut, whereas with the other way, a person would need to deal with 4 nuts (u-bolts) as well as aligning the arm again properly (the dimples in the crossbar). They might possibly need to get right up close and personal with the spring and arm to install everything well, depending on alignment issues and all and this seems much more dangerous than the process already is.
I know you know what you're doing, I just don't want any newbies to get hurt that have never done this before.

What kind of jack uses air???:p j/k

[COBALT]

True. One point of adjustment is easier than two. I'm thinking if he's got a 3/4 ton suspension he'll have trouble just replacing the coils. Getting the lower ball joint loose on 3/4 tons can be a real pain in the a$$ and frustrating. The rubber boot will get destroyed at least. At worst he'll need to replace the ball joint. Those A-arms will probably only take one more ball joint press if they're stock, so I'm thinking what would be the easiest way to get this done with less parts replaced.

Of course a word of caution: my floor jack weighs a friggin' TON, so it's substantial enough to not move around with angular pressure on it (not straight up and down). If you have a light weight jack you might not want to try what I suggested.