What is this bushing called - auto parts has no idea!

[76Blue_Beast]

Hey Guys,

Ok so once again I've come to a small question or description issue with the darn parts people and I'm not paying 150 to have this replaced. Here is a pic of the pass side that was replace a year ago because the truck was pulling to the side when braking. Rotors and brakes have been turned and replaced. When bushing on this side (blue) was replaced it got better. I was told if it didn't fix it the replace the other side and it won't pull anymore. The only thing is every parts store I've gone to and showed them they have no idea what its called. Any idea so I get the right part and have to change once?

Thanks,
Ken

[J Knight]

Passenger side is an Idler Arm.
Drivers side is a Pitman Arm.

[76Blue_Beast]

So I am also looking for two bushings on this side called the pitman arm bushings? Any special tools needed or things to watch out for? I'm going to tackle this myself lol. Thanks for the quick response!

[powerdriver 1958]

You need to look at that REAL close . Looking at the pitman arm , The stud that go's thru the drag link looks like is has been run loose and I don't see a cotter key in it either .

The hole in the drag link could be egg shaped .

[powerdriver 1958]

you will need a pitman arm puller and a tie rod spreader . Some parts store will let you borrow them if you buys the parts from them and put down a deposit

[86454k30]

Those aren't bushings, those are dust seals for the ball/socket on the idler/pitman arm. Replacing those will NOT tighten your steering at all. They are only used to keep grease in and dirt/moisture out. When the shop replaced the passenger side they replaced the whole arm not just put new blue dust shields on it.

Looks like you now need to replace the pitman arm(bolted to steering box).

[76Blue_Beast]

Oh ok. Is that a one man job I can handle with regular tools? Like I was saying before I paid about 100 to have it done and figure most of it was lobor for something simple. Plus the shop is way south of me as I moved further up north. Too bad I don't have and friends in my area to give a hand working on this beast. Thanks for the imput.

[andrewmp6]

If you have air tools and a pitman puller it can be done.The pitman puller you can rent from autozone i think or buy it from harbor freight.

[76Blue_Beast]

No air tools lol Ill have to man handle it I guess lol

[78maliburat]

Take the nut off and use a big hammer

[76Blue_Beast]

lol I was going to do that. Doesnt look like there is much to it. I was actually looking up the part right now and the damn thing is 68$ for the Pitman arm. But eghh its a learning thing too for me so why not tackle it. Half the stuff on these old squarebodies come off with a rubber hammer or mallet like my steering wheel. Didn't need a puller for that just had to keep my face away and try to keep all my teeth in the process.

[ont_guy_38]

If it is pulling while braking I would be looking at the braking system before steering , does look like the steering needs work too tho . You won't be out anything trying to get that off without a puller but they are usually on there pretty good and you don't want to be damaging the steering box internals by smashing on it with a hammer

[76Blue_Beast]

I had gone through the brakes and rotors first and the shop I had brought it to about a year ago had change the pass side arm first and then told me that if that didn't fully fix ot the what I now know is called pitman arm had to he changed. I thought it was bushings all along just because of the noticible blue color . The other side looked noticeably worn.
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[old Rusty C10]

best be sure like dave said that the drag link isnt all egged out or youre not going to accomplish much of anything

[76Blue_Beast]

You think I should just play it safe and put a new one of them in too? Not sure what it looks like but if it all works together id rather be safe driving it as my girlfriend drives it too and I sometimes have my kids with me so , safety first and not me being cheap lol.
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[softballnrd27]

Go to rockauto.com and look up the parts you need, they are normally way cheaper than the parts stores. I just replaced everything but the center link on my 85. You will need a pitman arm puller, just get it on there nice and tight and take a couple of whacks on the pitman arm and it should seperate it. Don't knock the living you know what out of it though and spray some wd40 or something on it before you start. You just use the nut to press the new one on.

[76Blue_Beast]

Ok Ty for all the advise. I am all about saving money just the right way lol.
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[terryj]

I would be concerned about the pitman arm and your draglink and while your under there, how's the tie rod ends? Most of these parts are not that expensive and the time to replace them really doesn't take that long providing you have the correct tools

[76Blue_Beast]

Ok cool . I'll need to make a list from this post so I can get these components fixed. Thank you all for you knowledge. Please let me know any other things I should fix that's cheap and fairly easy. If special tools are required please let me know.
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[terryj]

The two main tools your going to need are the ones that Powerdriver 1958 posted. Trying to get the pitman arm off without a puller will only fustrate you. A pickle fork will be needed for the pitman arm to draglink removal and the tie rod ends if they need replaced. I just went through this with my truck, I replaced the Pitman arm, Idler arm, both side of the tie rod ends, inner and outer and my sway bar bushings. It took me about 4 hours to do the entire job.
If you replace the tie rod ends make sure you measure the the distance between the center line of the bolts so you can adjust the tie rods before reinstall.

[76Blue_Beast]

Ok. Thanks for the tips. I'll be hovering over this post due to the fact I've never done any of this but what better way to get to know my truck ! Can't be proud if you haven't done it yourself. Thanks again.
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[hatzie]

There are 2 sizes of Pickle Forks. Tie-Rod (small) and Ball-Joint (Big). You need the tie- rod fork. Use a pitman arm puller and not a hammer. Auto-Zone etc will "Loan" these tools with a deposit.

Jack up one wheel and grab it with both hands at 9 & 3. Push and pull. There should be ZERO play. If there is have a buddy watch for which joint is loose.
Jack up the other side and do the same thing.
Ball Joints can sometimes be checked by rocking at 12 & 6. Otherwise use a prybar to check... just be careful of the boot.

Ball Joint Prybar Check

[76Blue_Beast]

Ok cool.... Thanks for the video too. I was just talking to my dad on the phone telling him this would be a first for me. Never messed with this sort of stuff but that's the best thing about the old trucks, a little common sense and thought you should be able to fix majority of the things on these old trucks.
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