wiring one wire alt

[eugrides]

how do i wire amp guage with one wire 12 volt alt on 53gmc

[hotrodsbyray]

I'd recommend switching to a voltmeter. Ammeter can be a possible hazard, especially with a newer 12 volt system. Mad Enterprises has a lot of good info on their web site about alternators, gauges, and such that is very practical. Might want to take a look. Oh, yeah - I'm not affiliated with them, I just like the technical info they have.

[koda360]

I'm not sure you can add an amp meter to a one wire alt. Don't quote me on that just yet and let me double check, but I think that's one of the downfalls to the one wire alts....

[_Ogre]

your 53 amp gauge is 30 amp, a typical 1 wire alternator is 100 amp.
i would hook a 10 ga wire from the post on the alternator directly to the battery
by-pass all the under dash wiring and a possible wiring fire

i converted the amp gauge on my 58 to a volt gauge, look in my truk build for info
if your the adventurous type, try converting your stock amp ga to a volt gauge

[RootBeer 6117]

Try here under electrical tech you should find an answer, I have done it but don't remember all the details.
http://www.madelectrical.com/index.shtml

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by koda360

I'm not sure you can add an amp meter to a one wire alt. Don't quote me on that just yet and let me double check, but I think that's one of the downfalls to the one wire alts....

I did the one in my jeep with an amp meter with no problems about 6 years ago and it is a 100 amp alternator. I also run dual isolated optmas in the back.
that connect through relays when the winch is activeted.

[AZ59apacheguy]

I have a one-wire hooked up to my '59 and I still use the stock amp meter. What I was told to do ( from So-Cal Speed Shop ) is take a 10ga wire and jumper between the two posts on the back of the gauge. The reason for this is to tame the current accross the gauge and make it less sensitive. I still see the needle move to the right upon startup and then it settles down after running for a while.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by AZ59apacheguy

I have a one-wire hooked up to my '59 and I still use the stock amp meter. What I was told to do ( from So-Cal Speed Shop ) is take a 10ga wire and jumper between the two posts on the back of the gauge. The reason for this is to tame the current accross the gauge and make it less sensitive. I still see the needle move to the right upon startup and then it settles down after running for a while.

I didn't do mine that way. and It works fine. I would think the wire across the termenals would make the guage in accurate. Like I said it is 100 amp and is stable. May be the stock guage is more sensative

[AZ59apacheguy]

Originally Posted by mknittle

I didn't do mine that way. and It works fine. I would think the wire across the termenals would make the guage in accurate. Like I said it is 100 amp and is stable. May be the stock guage is more sensative

Before I installed the 10ga jumper the needle would jack all the way to the right of the gauge. I was told as long as you see trending from startup to normal operation you were fine.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by mknittle

I didn't do mine that way. and It works fine. I would think the wire across the termenals would make the guage in accurate. Like I said it is 100 amp and is stable. May be the stock guage is more sensative

I posted on keeping the original amp guage back in January. Here is a link if anyone is interested.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=505185

It is true that the jumper would cause the amp guage to read lower than it would without it. That was the purpose of putting the jumper on my guage, so it wouldn't peg when the alternator was charging at a high rate. The original amp guage is only marked "C" and "D", not a specific number of amps so it would not be correct to call it inaccurate. It's just an indicator that the charging system is (or isn't) functioning as it should. I wanted to keep my gauges looking and acting completely original and that's why I did it like I did.

I never saw this suggested anywhere else. I wonder when So-Cal started giving out this tip.

[AZ59apacheguy]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

I never saw this suggested anywhere else. I wonder when So-Cal started giving out this tip.

I don't know. I went there and asked if they had a aftermarket voltage gauge that would adapt to a 55-59 instrument cluster. He said no one made anything like that, that's when he gave me that 10ga jumper trick.

[eugrides]

Thanks 4 all the info. Found out from auto rewire it would be fine to wire guage in series from alt. 2 bat. Using a fusible link my alt. Is 63 amp and guage is 50 amp

[AZ59apacheguy]

Originally Posted by eugrides

Thanks 4 all the info. Found out from auto rewire it would be fine to wire guage in series from alt. 2 bat. Using a fusible link my alt. Is 63 amp and guage is 50 amp

Hi. It's always a good idea to have a fusable link between battery and and cab wiring..

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

I posted on keeping the original amp guage back in January. Here is a link if anyone is interested.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=505185

It is true that the jumper would cause the amp guage to read lower than it would without it. That was the purpose of putting the jumper on my guage, so it wouldn't peg when the alternator was charging at a high rate. The original amp guage is only marked "C" and "D", not a specific number of amps so it would not be correct to call it inaccurate. It's just an indicator that the charging system is (or isn't) functioning as it should. I wanted to keep my gauges looking and acting completely original and that's why I did it like I did.

I never saw this suggested anywhere else. I wonder when So-Cal started giving out this tip.

that works, thanks Russell