Testing in dash speaker

[kcfirstbuild]

Whats the best way to test the dash speaker? Im trying to figure out if it the radio or the speaker. THe radio Lights up but no music.

[LockDoc]

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I had this same problem and it turned out to be the speaker. I was lucky. I had a known good speaker in my Green '67 so I swapped it into the Red '70 and the radio worked great. After I found that the radio was OK I tried all of my extra speakers and only 1 out of the 5 I had was good. I don't know of any other way to test them.

Here is a good web site for them. The one for our trucks is 50 bucks but I don't know what the postage is.

http://www.turnswitch.com/speakers.htm

Here is a place that repairs them.

http://www.heavysoundco.com/homepage.html

LockDoc

[Todd Hepler]

Method one:
1.5v Battery - AA or AAA
Attach a lead to the positive terminal.
Attach another lead to the negative.
Unplug your speaker
Touch leads to speaker leads (polarity not important)
If you speaker makes a popping sound it's good.

Method two:
Disconnect speaker from radio
Put multimeter on ohms range
Test speaker leads
Reading should be right around 3.2 ohms for a 4ohm speaker

[LockDoc]

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Thanks Todd. I figured there was a way to test them but radio and electronics is not one of my strong points...

On another note, the easiest way I have found to remove the radio and speaker (non-air trucks) is to remove the glove box liner.

To remove the liner, remove the screws holding the glove box door hinge to the liner. Remove the door, then remove the rest of the screws around the perimeter of the liner. Gently push back on the liner enough so you can slide it to the right a little bit. Work the left side out of the hole first being careful not to catch the liner on the mounting flanges. You may have to use a putty knife or reach up under the dash to get the liner started out of the hole. After the left side is part way out use the putty knife to press the top and bottom up/down to clear the mounting flanges and gently pull the liner out. Re-install in reverse order. All of the screws that hold the radio and speaker in are hex head sheet metal screws. I have found that a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 3/8" socket and 3" or 4" extension or a 3/8" wrench with a swivel socket on one end works best for removing the screws.

#1 screw holds the "L" bracket to the radio. #2 screw holds the "L" bracket to the firewall bracket. #3 screw holds the speaker to the firewall bracket.

LockDoc