Is a V8 swap really this easy?

[shok]

After some searching and even finding info in a couple of for sale ads it looks like this for my no option 1966 straight 6.

• Existing L6 starter and flywheel bolts to V8.
• V8 mounts will sit on existing L6 frame mounts
• Bolts up to my 3 speed manual
• Fab up an exhaust

Just need to source a pilot bearing for the crankshaft. Is it really that simple on this model?
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[Dano69c10]

From what other members have told me; the v8 will not bolt to the three speed if you use the L6 mounts and you might have clutch linkage problems. If you use v8 mounts, then you need a manual tranny x-member, a v8 trans linkage and a bell-crank for a v8. There are three manual x-members: L6, sbc and bbc. I'm sure someone who has actually done a conversion, will chime in on this.

[SS Tim]

Might want to post this over in the '66 down section. The information above applies to 67-72 but I am not too sure if it does for a '66.

[shok]

Ugh, I did post in the wrong section like a doof. Can a mod move this for me?

Thanks for the info guys, if it turns out that it's not that simple then I'll prolly just spend the money for another 6 banger.
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[71tahoe]

Originally Posted by shok

Ugh, I did post in the wrong section like a doof. Can a mod move this for me?

Thanks for the info guys, if it turns out that it's not that simple then I'll prolly just spend the money for another 6 banger.
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if a 66 isn't that much different than a 67-72 frame, then it won't be that hard. The only issue I had was the clutch linkage. Depending on your block, it might be as easy as putting a pivot in an existing threaded hole above the oil filter. I had one block where I had to make a bracket for the Zbar pivot but it's not that hard.

Also, if you run headers, the Zbar will have to be modified to clear. And, some tall valve covers won't clear the firewall.

Remember, this only applies if the frames are similar.

[shok]

Thanks for the info, I think I know what bracket you are talking about for the Z bar pivot, I've seen pics and I could weld something like that up easily enough. If I do this I will most likely get a donor car and would use the stock exhaust manifolds if they would work. Headers would be much further down the road.

[VA72C10]

moved for you...

[MARTYZ]

Yes it is that easy, I did it with mine, with all peices that were on 6 cylinder, fan and shroud can be an issue as fan sitslower and farther back on the small block V8. the RPM a little high with 3 speed and 373 gear but is still drivable, I have put 5800 miles on mine with this set up. Get at her!!!

[shok]

Awesome, no issue with the clutch linkage at all?
I think I can deal with the fan and shroud issues easily enough between parts I have and what will probably come with a donor car.

[1enick72]

On the 6 cyl there is a bracket that your bellcrank (z bar) attaches to. You will eliminate that and just use a ball stud that threads into the block, but over all it is that simple. Of course you may need to extend you heater hose lines and reroute your fuel line and swap out radiator lines, not much to it.

If you happen to swap with an earlier 1 peice rear main seal engine you will need a new fly wheel.

[shok]

Ok stuff like lines and hoses are easy enough to deal with in one weekend with a trip to the local parts store.
What year V8s would use the flywheel I have now? I'm going to start watching CL for donor vehicles and will limit my search to those years.
Thanks for the info everyone.

[MARTYZ]

Originally Posted by shok

Ok stuff like lines and hoses are easy enough to deal with in one weekend with a trip to the local parts store.
What year V8s would use the flywheel I have now? I'm going to start watching CL for donor vehicles and will limit my search to those years.
Thanks for the info everyone.

Not sure what year they changed , I think as long as you find a block with 010 casting# on left rear you will be fine, no clutch linkage issues, best case find an engine out of truck with manual transmission. then you have flywheel clutch, bellcrank stud everthing ready to slip in.

[DoubleL]

Just don't know why you would want to downgrade to a V-8

[shok]

Originally Posted by DoubleL

Just don't why you would want to downgrade to a V-8

Well it boils down to what comes my way at the best price. I will do a compression check on my motor this weekend but judging by the blowby I think its time to consider options. Part of the reason I'm checking if its this easy is because I want the option to go back to a 6 in the future when I can do a 6 the way I want.

[DoubleL]

I'm just giving you a hard time I'm a straight 6 fan. The small blocks are way more available and it seems like a pretty easy swap.

[shok]

Yeh I know your are joking, but there is a good point there. I didn't care about straight 6s that much but now that I've had one I really do think they are pretty cool little motors and I like combination of the torque characteristics combined with the fuel economy for driving around town. But right now I have to look at the most affordable options with an ailing motor, maybe I'll get lucky and find a cheap rusty 4 dr nova with a straight 6 that's in good condition, to me that would be the best option.

[Captainfab]

The location of the small blocks and the 230/250 are exactly the same in the '63-'66 trucks. A small block will bolt right up to the bellhousing. There will be no issues with the 3 speed either. If you use the headers that are made for these trucks (Hedman #69260), there is absolutely no clutch bellcrank issues. You can also run the better sets of headers for the later model trucks with little to no clutch bellcrank issues. Those would be Hedman #69090 or Hooker #2452. These trucks originally came with the short water pumps on the small blocks, but the long water pumps will work also. There will just be a couple things to address. The one piece rear main seals on the small blocks started in 1986.

If you can find a square body truck or Suburban ('73-'87) for a donor, then you will also have the parts you need for front disc brakes, power steering, and possibly a rear end with higher gears.

[westcoast5]

theres a few cheap 350's on CL for cheap I was looking at them but I may just stay with my 6 too.

[shok]

Thanks for the info Captain.
Hey westcoast, I saw some 350s in the local CL a few days ago, I'll check again. It would have to be dirt cheap or sold by someone I know if I can't see it run, which is why I like the idea of a whole donor car.
I wonder if yours is the black truck I've seen around here, it's always as I'm turning or something that I see this truck and it's not a good time to stop and look.
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[westcoast5]

theres a couple black ones around. Im the one with the boss wheels and a temp regestration on the back. I drove it all last week since cherrys was in town. Look in the Cali section under the cherry's jubliee, another member took a pic of my truck and posted it up.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=536311&page=3

[shok]

Yeh the one's I've seen aren't as nice looking. I'll keep an eye peeled for ya tho!

[Martin64]

I did run into the clutch linkage issue, but easy enough to fix. It looks to me like it depends on what exhaust you use. I bought the cheap, long headers so it hit. If you don't have a complete V-8 , it can nickle and dime you getting what doesn't come with the motor. I'm doing a swap from the I-6 to a 350 crate motor. I'd say I have close to $250 more than the cost of the crate motor in parts, pumps,mounts, pulleys, belt, hoses, etc. But it's still not all that difficult to do the swap.

[shok]

Originally Posted by Martin64

I did run into the clutch linkage issue, but easy enough to fix. It looks to me like it depends on what exhaust you use. I bought the cheap, long headers so it hit. If you don't have a complete V-8 , it can nickle and dime you getting what doesn't come with the motor. I'm doing a swap from the I-6 to a 350 crate motor. I'd say I have close to $250 more than the cost of the crate motor in parts, pumps,mounts, pulleys, belt, hoses, etc. But it's still not all that difficult to do the swap.

That nickel and dimeing along with a bunch of trips to a parts store is the kind of thing that drives me crazy, hopefully I can avoid some of that with a running donor vehicle. I have time to look since first thing I have to spend money on is parts and some tools to do a timing belt change on the daily driver, then I can go back full force on the truck.
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