10-01-2012, 12:54 AM | #1 |
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Clutch Slave Question
Many years ago I installed an nv3500 transmition out of a 1992 Chevy truck. I installed the clutch set up from the same truck. The slave cylinder is now leaking and needs replacement. I would like to use a a wildwood style replacement but I am not sure if it will work as the linkage portion is different. Any advice would be apriciated. The rock auto link below is the style I have now and the wilwood link is what I would like to use if possible.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1403583 http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...ter%20Cylinder Posted via Mobile Device
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10-02-2012, 11:12 PM | #2 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
Bump
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10-03-2012, 12:05 AM | #3 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
The slave cylinder i have is the same type you want to use. I not sure of the linkage on the oem style, but the linkage on the willwood is simple to use. Go to Speedway motors, this is where i got mine. They have the linkage parts that you will need. Plus they are priced good. They might be able to answer any questions you might have. Hope that helps.
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10-03-2012, 01:41 PM | #4 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
The leaky one currenlty install
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10-03-2012, 01:47 PM | #5 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
Linkage inside cab
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10-03-2012, 01:52 PM | #6 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
It would be right at home next to my wilwwod master and proprtioning valve.
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10-03-2012, 06:56 PM | #7 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
From what i can tell, you should have no problem with the linkage. Might be able to reuse what you already have. The rod coming out of the wilwood is 5/16 thread on mine.
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Daren 04 Chevy Extend cab 2500HD 6.0 Liter 4x4 71 CHEVY 3/4 4X4 402 BB, th400/np205, dana44/eaton ho52 w/4:10-TOY Rip El Jay RIP BOBBO'S MOM |
10-03-2012, 11:11 PM | #8 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
Which one of these two would you guys use?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwoo...aster+Cylinder http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwoo...aster+Cylinder Posted via Mobile Device
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10-04-2012, 03:54 AM | #9 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
I used the 3/4 bore size master. Worked good for me.
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10-04-2012, 11:08 AM | #10 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
Looking at the two specs between the 5/8" and 3/4" bore difference I do not see any noted difference in over all body size or internal fluid capacity.
This may be a dump question... but here it goes, what is the difference between the two. Any advatage or disadvantqage in going with one or the other?
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10-04-2012, 12:31 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
Quote:
Best way is to figure out the bore size in the one you have and match it. In all honesty, in your case, either one will work. I use them in my buggy/sandrail projects as brake M/Cs. |
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10-07-2012, 12:06 AM | #12 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
I just ordered the 3/4" bore version. I will post pictures when I get it installed.
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11-19-2012, 12:05 AM | #13 |
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Re: Clutch MASTER Question
So I got my Wilwood clutch master cylinder mostly installed. Here are some pictures. It looks right at home next to my Wilwood brake master and proportioning valve. I sanded all of the casting marks and inclusions out and then buffed it to a shine. Started with 80 grit, then 150, then 220, then 300 wet, then 600 wet, then hit it with a powerball and polish compound. Looks a lot better than the dull finish it came with.
I had to cut down the original push rod linkage and thread it to match the treads sticking out of the new master. I couldn't find a 5/16 - 24 coupler so I had to thread a piece of pipe with nuts on each side to couple the new linkage to the old under the dash, see picture. Now all I need to find is a brake line adapter that will take the old line fitting which is 12-1.0 mm and neck it down to the 3/8"-24 inlet on the new Wilwood master. So basically I need a 3/8"-24 (male) to 12-1.0 mm (Female) connector. Anyone know where I can get one of these fittings?
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It's not truly yours if you didn't build it yourself or if you don't do your own maintenance. Last edited by lts70; 11-19-2012 at 12:21 AM. |
11-19-2012, 12:58 AM | #14 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
I can not find any fitting that will directly fit the master cylinder, I think that is why this thing comes with an adaptor from the factory. I just would like to get away from using any adapters,at this rate I may have to use two adapters back to back. It looks like I may not have a choice if I cant figure this out. I wasn't expecting this, I did not see it listed anywhere when ordering, not even on wilwood site (it does show it in there product picture). I basically need the same adaptor provided with the master cylinder but instead of excepting 3/8"-24 it needs to except a 12-1.0 mm. This is a picture of the fitting that came with the master.
Please help me figure out a way to do this connection as clean as possible. .
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It's not truly yours if you didn't build it yourself or if you don't do your own maintenance. Last edited by lts70; 11-19-2012 at 01:09 AM. |
11-19-2012, 10:19 AM | #15 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
Nice! Looks great.
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11-19-2012, 10:49 AM | #16 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
I'm going to say your best bet is go to your local hydraulic shop. Those guys (should) know their fittings. Keep asking till you find someone who knows. I would bet that Wilwood doesn't make a fitting special for that application, they bought it somewhere.
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11-20-2012, 01:54 AM | #17 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
I thought I had found the adapter (NAPA part #7974) I needed but it turned out to be backwards,just my luck. I think I will just have to cut the old metric fitting off the the hard line and find a standard size fitting that will be easier to find an adapter for.
http://www.agscompany.com/automotive...r-fittings/133 http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsD...974_0006433989 Posted via Mobile Device
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11-20-2012, 01:26 PM | #18 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
This is the type of line I have. It goes from hard line to rubber back to hard line.
Is it possiple to cut it at the rubber and recrimp a smaller line? It has 1/4" line now that is just to big to find any fittings that will work with my 3/8"-24 inlet.
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11-25-2012, 09:28 PM | #19 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
After making a million phone calls and about to just have an all new line made up I got refered to Tony Stevens at Carolina Racing Supply.
(704) 662-8299 www.carolinaracingsupply.com And for $5 I hope I will be back on the road again. I hope this truly works. The silver piece should go into the master cylinder. The sleeve (small part on right) and the nut should go on the hard line with only a single flare, no double-flaring required. I just hope down the road this helps at least one guy find the fittings to go from his NV3500 to a wilwood clutch master. If it does and you read this shoot me a PM, it will make my day. Just out of curosity, is anyone watching this with intrest?
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It's not truly yours if you didn't build it yourself or if you don't do your own maintenance. Last edited by lts70; 11-25-2012 at 09:38 PM. |
11-25-2012, 11:37 PM | #20 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
Just out of curiousity, could you have went with a braided line instead of the hard line. Was the other end of hard line a metric size too?
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Daren 04 Chevy Extend cab 2500HD 6.0 Liter 4x4 71 CHEVY 3/4 4X4 402 BB, th400/np205, dana44/eaton ho52 w/4:10-TOY Rip El Jay RIP BOBBO'S MOM |
11-26-2012, 12:05 AM | #21 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
Glad you found a solution!
I love using tube nuts and sleeves with the single flare. SO much easier than double flare, and I have MUCH better luck with them sealing up.
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac |
12-04-2012, 12:24 PM | #22 |
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Re: Clutch Slave Question
I finaly got her all back to gether again. It was good to give her a drive around the block. Still need to bleed the air out to get more pedal though.
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