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10-20-2012, 09:25 PM
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#1 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Townsend MT
Posts: 1,725
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Body Work, Should I?
I have a 1972 K20 I bought for $100. The cab corners and rockers are rusted through. The floorboards are rusted through next to the edge. The A pillars appear to fine. The doors are rusted through at the bottom in a few spots.
I have never even tried to do body work at all. I would like to attempt to make a rust free free body that looks fairly decent. I have a good Miller wire welder that can run from .020" to .040" wire. I can make strong welds, but they are not always the prettiest. What size wire is best for body work? What do I need for tools? I have a cutting torch, sawzall, angle grinder, and a rather large selection of hammers. What other tools do I need? What is the best order to remove and replace rusted parts? Do I need to brace anything when the cab is chopped apart to prevent tweaking the rest of the cab? Can I do everything with the cab on the truck? Where is the best place to get replacement sheet metal? The only part that has me really worried is the doors. What is the best plan of attack to fix them?
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1966 F250 4X4 416 1972 K20 350 4 OTF Quote:
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10-20-2012, 10:15 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Edwards, CA
Posts: 7,507
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Re: Body Work, Should I?
Here is a great exploded view of the cab to start off with. If I were doing this I'd pull the seat,floor coverings and tank. Plus the sill plates and anything else in the way. Vacuum everything. Then take a few good pictures and post them so people here can look at them objectively.
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10-20-2012, 11:55 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ithaca NY
Posts: 251
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Re: Body Work, Should I?
there are some videos on youtube on how to reskin some c10 doors as well as replace rockers and some floor pieces, you should also get a good selection of dollys to work with, and a decent cutoff wheel (harbor freight die grinders work well when taken care of) and I typically always use .035 wire, worst case is more build up that will need to be ground down, but if you have some patience and the time, it should go perfectly, work in small sections, and you shouldn't need to brace anything
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"To speak of the art of one loom, the art of one river, the art of one tractor, or the art of one automobile is not preposterous; it is to point to the size and importance of the gap between general knowledge and situated knowledge" - James C. Scott 1969 C10 - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=492064 1930 Tudor Sedan |
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10-20-2012, 11:56 PM
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#4 |
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Cruzin
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: on the road
Posts: 2,835
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Re: Body Work, Should I?
Yes, go for it! Knowing how to weld is halfway there. Just take your time
Posted via Mobile Device
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10-21-2012, 10:15 AM
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#5 |
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I am a Referee of life.
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro N.C.
Posts: 13,992
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Re: Body Work, Should I?
Tack weld only and jump around.Let it cool between welds or you'll heat warp and make it rust free but wavy.Same with grinding,heat will build up from it.Take your time with alignment before welding.Use tacks only.I would pay $100 for a cab to practice on.
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The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" |
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10-21-2012, 12:39 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Farmville, Va
Posts: 3,026
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Re: Body Work, Should I?
I think at that price you can afford to practice pon it or sell it for scrap and make a profit,
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10-22-2012, 08:19 PM
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#7 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Townsend MT
Posts: 1,725
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Re: Body Work, Should I?
I kinda have to keep the truck. A neighboring rancher it new in '72. He then parked it in '96 due to the box floor being completely rusted through. I offered him $500 and said I could have it for $100 if I fixed it up a little and never sold it.
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1966 F250 4X4 416 1972 K20 350 4 OTF Quote:
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