Tie rod help - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

MAC71 · 10-22-2012, 09:41 PM

I have a 72 C20 Suburban that has a problem driving in a strait line. All of the front and rear suspension and steering components are tight. It has a new gear box, springs, shocks and tires. Also there is no play at all in the steering. It has been aligned by two different shops, but it keeps wondering to the point that it is scary to drive.

I just discovered that the tie rods do not have that 20-30 degree of rotation that they should have, in fact they have no play at all.

So my question is could this cause the tie rods to bind and induce some sort of bump steer??

I wanted to add that all parts are stock, so now lowering spindles or springs.

da-burb · 10-22-2012, 10:28 PM

I would hope that someone in one of 2 shops has enough experience to identify bad parts in the front suspension. The first place I would look is the pan hard bar on the rear axle. A bad bushing there will make the truck go different directions. After that look at the bushings in the training arms. The geometry of 1/4" movement there becomes huge 10 1/2 feet up front.

MAC71 · 10-22-2012, 10:43 PM

da-burb, Thank you for the info, I recently replaced the pan hard bar bushings and also replaced not only the trailing arm bushings, but also the trailing arms due to rust.

GMCJOE · 10-22-2012, 10:48 PM

If you can't find any suspension issue between the front and rear, swap your front tires to the rear. See if that corrects your wandering. Could just have a tire issues. My S10 had the same issue, ended up having a bad belt in one the the tires.

Wrenchbender Ret · 10-22-2012, 11:03 PM

Yes the tie rod ends should be on the same plain & rotate some if they are greased. If not you can loosen one clamp & rotate it slightly. This will not effect the alignment. Put the wheels straight ahead. Look at the pitman arm & idler arm. They should be parralel to the length of the truck. The inner tie rods should be in the same relative possition of the frame. Raise the front wheels & hold an awl or ice pick up to a solid tread or the tire with a jack stand. Rotate the wheel so to put a line around the circumference of the tire. Do both tires like that & set the truck back down & roll it & bounce it a little to break the surface tension. With
the wheels straight ahead, Have some one hold a tape on the scribed line in the front of the tire about the center. Measure the distance to the other tire. Go to the rear of the tire & measure the same way. The front should be about 1/8 in. less then the back.
If all this doesn't seam right go back to the alignment shop.
These trucks handle great when they are right. I would reather drive my 70 then either of the new cars we have.

10-22-2012, 09:41 PM	#1
MAC71 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: UTAH Posts: 353	Tie rod help I have a 72 C20 Suburban that has a problem driving in a strait line. All of the front and rear suspension and steering components are tight. It has a new gear box, springs, shocks and tires. Also there is no play at all in the steering. It has been aligned by two different shops, but it keeps wondering to the point that it is scary to drive. I just discovered that the tie rods do not have that 20-30 degree of rotation that they should have, in fact they have no play at all. So my question is could this cause the tie rods to bind and induce some sort of bump steer?? I wanted to add that all parts are stock, so now lowering spindles or springs. __________________ Mike 1971 C10 350 1969 C20 396 1979 Corvette L-82

10-22-2012, 10:28 PM	#2
da-burb "Ochre Ogre" Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Springfield, MN Posts: 3,558	Re: Tie rod help I would hope that someone in one of 2 shops has enough experience to identify bad parts in the front suspension. The first place I would look is the pan hard bar on the rear axle. A bad bushing there will make the truck go different directions. After that look at the bushings in the training arms. The geometry of 1/4" movement there becomes huge 10 1/2 feet up front. __________________ Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087

10-22-2012, 10:43 PM	#3
MAC71 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: UTAH Posts: 353	Re: Tie rod help da-burb, Thank you for the info, I recently replaced the pan hard bar bushings and also replaced not only the trailing arm bushings, but also the trailing arms due to rust. __________________ Mike 1971 C10 350 1969 C20 396 1979 Corvette L-82

10-22-2012, 10:48 PM	#4
GMCJOE Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Junction City, KS Posts: 782	Re: Tie rod help If you can't find any suspension issue between the front and rear, swap your front tires to the rear. See if that corrects your wandering. Could just have a tire issues. My S10 had the same issue, ended up having a bad belt in one the the tires. __________________ Joseph Joe's 69 GMC http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=543253 1969 GMC SWB-350 SBC 700R4 2013 Ram 2500 CC Laramie Longhorn Edition-6.7 PPEI EFI Live CSP5 5” ProFlo Exhaust

10-22-2012, 11:03 PM	#5
Wrenchbender Ret Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Overland Park, Ks. Posts: 5,229	Re: Tie rod help Yes the tie rod ends should be on the same plain & rotate some if they are greased. If not you can loosen one clamp & rotate it slightly. This will not effect the alignment. Put the wheels straight ahead. Look at the pitman arm & idler arm. They should be parralel to the length of the truck. The inner tie rods should be in the same relative possition of the frame. Raise the front wheels & hold an awl or ice pick up to a solid tread or the tire with a jack stand. Rotate the wheel so to put a line around the circumference of the tire. Do both tires like that & set the truck back down & roll it & bounce it a little to break the surface tension. With the wheels straight ahead, Have some one hold a tape on the scribed line in the front of the tire about the center. Measure the distance to the other tire. Go to the rear of the tire & measure the same way. The front should be about 1/8 in. less then the back. If all this doesn't seam right go back to the alignment shop. These trucks handle great when they are right. I would reather drive my 70 then either of the new cars we have.



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