Air vs electric shifter

[chevytruck1970]

Any thoughts or opinions on air or electric shifters for a rev pattern th400?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Super73]

I know a several guys on here use air, I think Regan might have a little experience with both.

I use a deaden bear electric shift noid for my powerglide. It fires via a window switch/relay set up. I have to set it about 200 rpm early but it is consistent.
Posted via Mobile Device

[hotrod 80]

I am about to take this on . I run a reverse manual 400 . I currently have a B & M prostick and like it . I just got a pro ratchet and im working on building a solinoid bracket and milling the handle for a clevis type linkage to make the 1-2 and 2-3 shift off a preset rpm switch in my msd box . This is the basic idea i am working with . I would go powerglide , but money wont allow it right now .

[Marv D]

Been there,, the Shiftnoid / Pro Ratchet is 1 of only 2 options I know of for a 3speed electric. I ran the Shiftnoid / ProRatchet for 3-4 years,, it is a little finicky about having good voltage, and make sure you use a GOOD quality relay with it. A cheep relay was just one of my problems with the Shiftnoid deal. You have to find a good WINDOW SWITCH,, a RPM switch won't do. A RPM switch just activates at a set RPM,, it doesn't RESET when the RPMS drop after the shift. It takes a WINDOW to reset after the 1-2 shift. Otherwise you can try 2 RPM switches with the 2-3 shift being higher than the 1-2,, and hope everything reacts right and correctly so it doesn't flash RPMs and double shift.

Air,,,
you still have the same activation issues,,, but air is MUCH more consistant and reliable. Unfortunately I apparently got a Friday night, 4:59pm version of the Dedenbear / Turbo Action SCS Cheeta air shifter. It's been nothing but trouble,, and after the $700 investiment is a shifter., It has taken $200 in repairs in just 2 seasons,, right down to the $22 stupid plastic SCS handle that just split in 1/2 for no reason (Leaving me with no handle in round 1,, but thats why we automate shifts right LOL just have to find 1st once right LOL)

Thing with CO2 is you are regulating 2000,3000,or 9000+PSI down to 60psi,, so you have a solid, consistant 60 psi in the first round, as you do in the hot laps. Not like a battery that didn't get a full charge, or circuits that now have to run lights and such. WAY more consistant and reliable. The bad thing about air,,, if you don't fill the bottle,,, Houston we have a problem.... ALWAYS keep a spare bottle in the trailer. Int he Nova a bottle lasts all season,, in this nightmare truck,, 2 weekends (10-12 laps) and the POS shifter and regulator that has been rebuilt twice keeps leaking a bottle down to 0.

My opinion is... there is no GOOD answer to the 3speed automated shift. NONE,, Powerrglide,, total different story. But 3spd,,, there isn't a good answer that I have found.

[hotrod 80]

well with the holidays on us . I am just swapping to the pro rachet and shifting it myself . I have made 5 or 6 1 / 3 shifts this year that nitrous has covered me on . Just got to stop missing shifts

[Mack81]

Just from exp, two cars we ran both have shift-noid. During hot summer nights the heat gets to the noid and it becomes inconsistant, sometimes not working at all. I'd suggest if you're gonna use one, put some thought into isolating it from heat somehow or keep a fan on it between rounds.

[hotrod 80]

I want to follow up on this . Here is my setup now .


Just a few thoughts on it . As Marv said a window switch is manditory . I chose an MSD digital window switch . Also i fire the solinoid with a Borg warner S55 relay (heavy duty Ford starter solinoid type) Also the power has to be seperate and clean . The power for the shifter comes straight from the starter lug and is under the same bolt as the battary cable . These 2 loads are non coencidental , meaning you are never firing the noid while starting the truck . The shiftnoid draws big amps and if not provided enough quality voltage volts drop and amps go up . The noid also needs a large and quality ground . Mine goes to the frame of the truck .

The power to the window switch is feed off of the hot side of my nitrous S 55 which has a seperate power feed . I also added a toggle switch to the window switch power incase i need to strech a shift out to make up time or just shift myself . At first i just powered the window switch off the relay for the noid causing my window switch to reset due to voltage drop . I had the shift light 100 rpm above shift set point , so i knew if i saw the light to shift manuallly . Now that the electrical problems are fixed the truck is way more consistant at 6.95-6.96 . It would run 7.0-7.04 before.

[chevytruck1970]

What rpm do you have your window switch set for?
Posted via Mobile Device

[hotrod 80]

Originally Posted by chevytruck1970

What rpm do you have your window switch set for?
Posted via Mobile Device

That depends on what im doing . Typically 6000 on/5900 off for bracket racing and i move it up to lower et in 7.0 index I have only run 3 races with it so im still learning .

[chevytruck1970]

My ignition controller has a window switch if you set the off rpm lower than the on rpm it will stay on all the time. I got all the air shifter stuff installed I need to go to test it at the track because its not making sense to me.
Posted via Mobile Device

[hotrod 80]

Originally Posted by chevytruck1970

My ignition controller has a window switch if you set the off rpm lower than the on rpm it will stay on all the time. I got all the air shifter stuff installed I need to go to test it at the track because its not making sense to me.
Posted via Mobile Device

I think the air stuff will in the end work good for you .

My ignition box is lap top programable (6530 6AL-2) and i didnt want to have to plug in the laptop to change it everytime . I moved the shift rpm up to 6200 in the heat saturday and we had a delay for promod breaking . The DA dropped almost 300' and i didnt have my phone to update . Broke out with a 6.991 should have taken the 200 rpm back out in the lanes . Still learning every pass .

[regan wilson]

I ran the Shiftnoid for years and it was trouble from day one.I had a Dedenbear shift timer for the 1 2 shift and that worked. I tried to use my MSD to rpm shift high gear and it wouldnt do it. So I just used it for my 1 2 shift and pulled high on my own(more fun anyway). I had random problems with it not shifting though. I was in the semis at a Divisional in Houston and It came off the stop screaming with wheels in the air I didnt know the shifter didnt work. It freaked me out and I peddled it a little put in second gear and still ran the guy down for a round win. After that I would look down to see if it shifted but got tired of it becuase you need to focus on the race and not stupid things like that. I took it of and just started pulling it in 2nd(while on the t-stop) when I pass the tree and high gear at 7500. That freed my mind and let me focus more on racing on plus the added fun factor.

After all that just use air...lol

[hotrod 80]

I agree with Reagan , if it is not working correctly it is more of a distraction then an aid . Electric is touchy about cable routing and alignment . I had to also soften the return spring in the shifter .