Drag Truck Fiberglass Tailgate or bed ideas

[H82LUSE]

Im looking for some light weight box ideas for a 1972 long box GMC seeing as i still run box wood I am looking for a fiberglass tailgate and rad support for up front any ideas please post

[moggey01]

You can try a tailgate skin , if you dont mind dzusing it on. I dont know of a glass tailgate. If you want a stock type radiator core support AutoRad makes them in aluminum sheet metal, and you can lighten them still. I may try moving the radiator to the bed to move some weight.

[H82LUSE]

Where do you find just the tail gate skin ? How much weight do you think that would save?
I like the aluminum rad support to sweet

[Marv D]

Just a couple thoughts.. you find guys adding lead to the tailgate to put weight over / behind the rear axle. If your going to carry weight,,,, that's the place to do it I would think.

The radiator support supports the entire front end sheet metal. Even in many tube chassis cars with individual fiberglass fenders / bumpers / grill,,, you see the stock core support. You strip everythign off of it and I bet you find the difference between the stock stamped steel support and one stamped from aluminum, or some custom fabb'd support is less than 10#

Not trying to be negative here, just I personally feel your looking to save weight inthe wrong places. For $ sake and sanity,,, look to the more conventional weight loss ideas.

fiberglass hood fenders
no or carbon fiber / aluminum inner fenders
obviously hood
loose heater box, a/c any accessory not necessary
light weight seats
replace the 5/8" thick bed wood with 1/4" plywood ( or dado out the underside leaving just the edges for thickness) or remove / replace the wood with a light weight material
gutt the doors,
lexan windows
move battery / fuel pump / fuel system to the back

just a few ideas

[moggey01]

Marv my aluminum core support with a radiator that is equivelant to a 4 core ,vs. a brass 2 core saves 24 lbs. It also has a condensor and the brass one did not .I also had a rotted out steel core support so I had to replace it with something. I agree with adding weight to the rear, I am raising the floor 4 inches and adding 4 inches to a rear mount fuel tank. LMC has a tailgate skin , and I think Brothers does also . You might try a place called Outback truck parts in Spring ,Texas also. I agree with moving weight to the rear nitrous bottles everything goes to the rear. I want to make my own glass bumper for the front also.

[moggey01]

I think he has already moved weight and added a glass hood etc. Its funny you mention a "car" in this topic. The cars I was involved in helping with would weigh 2,500 lbs. with all factory glass and sheet metal (stock frame in front). To make legal weight with a driver that weighed 160.lbs we added 350 lbs. Even had the spare tire in for ballast in the rear, with 100.lbs on the nose. We just had the option of moving weight anywhere. When you look at the fact that there is a leave spring , traction bar car running 4.60s @ 157 in the 1/8th and its all steel and glass at 3000+ lbs on 275 drag radials that kind of makes you think about things. There have been huge gains with these cars in the last few years.

[H82LUSE]

I have removed all the things that I could have up to this point to save weight but without sacrificing the overall look. I run a glass hood but all steel otherwise im just looking to remove another 200 to 300 pounds to get me where i wanna be on the motor. I have no problem with weight transfer as the truck will 60' 1.23 and if the track is good it will trip the 60' beams on the back tires. Im looking at a light weight battery doing something with bedwood i like the idea of an aluminum rad support and the tailgate would be a bunch i think. I havent weight it yet but thinking it has to weigh 60lbs. Let me know on any ideas.

[bk2life]

remove all the wood out of the bed, replace it with thin aluminum, then have a vechile wrap (sticker) made that looks like the wood you removed and apply the wrap to the aluminum sheeting. therefore looks like a wood floor and weighs 1-2 lbs tops.

get some fiber glass bed sides., fiber glass doors, lexan the windows--and then post some pics for more ideas.

[Super73]

Are you stock rear frame rail and stock rear trailing arms?

When we did my cage and back half, we cut the frame just behind the cab and made a new one with 1 5/8 CM tubbing and went to a 4-link. I don't know exact weight reduction, but frame alone was 70+ lbs according to the bathroom scale. The tubes that replaced it were about 5 per side and a couple 2lb cross members.

Time before last truck weighed 3525 with me in it full tank of gas.
Last time out it weighed 3150 with me in it and a full tank.

Changes:
4l80e to power glide
CM cage
Back half
4-link
I lost 25lbs
Front panel of the bed we cut up, retaining just the top portion
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[moggey01]

Originally Posted by H82LUSE

I have removed all the things that I could have up to this point to save weight but without sacrificing the overall look. I run a glass hood but all steel otherwise im just looking to remove another 200 to 300 pounds to get me where i wanna be on the motor. I have no problem with weight transfer as the truck will 60' 1.23 and if the track is good it will trip the 60' beams on the back tires. Im looking at a light weight battery doing something with bedwood i like the idea of an aluminum rad support and the tailgate would be a bunch i think. I havent weight it yet but thinking it has to weigh 60lbs. Let me know on any ideas.

I am with you, I think I will use all aluminum inside the bed for the floor. I might airbrush it to look like wood. Using a large aluminum tub will remove some steel from the inside of the bed. Also I have found fiberglass front inner fenders. I called and asked if they would make a single layer set.( Might take off 15-20 pounds). I have to replace what I have so $290.00 is not bad to loose weight. I am using Nascar hood hinge /props. They weigh about 8 ounces each. Versus a 7.5 stock hinge and spring. This wont help if you have a lift off hood already , but I plan on doing some driving on the street by myself so I am trying this. Robert the chassis guy wants to mount the radiator in the bed, this moves alot of fluid weight to the rear, as I have mentioned before the extra 8 to 9 gallons of fuel in the tank does the same. I will make aluminum bumper brackets for my glass bumper when I get to that point. It all adds up in the end . Nathan Porter makes a piece of tubing that holds the headlights and radiator, this would be real light in chromoly. The Autorad has all the stock holes for inner fenders, fender mounts, headlight mounts and looks like a stock type core suport . It is a nice piece.

[H82LUSE]

I like the aluminum rad support for sure what do ya think the weight savings is on that. Were you able to find a supplier for glass front and rear bumpers? I am not into changing any frame changes as my truck is done and dont wanna start all over again but if i can do things here and there to chop some pounds without changing the overall look perfect. The bed wood is something that i am thinking of what i should do any pics would be great.

[moggey01]

I had a rotted out factory core support, a 2 core brass radiator, and I weighed the small fan. I weighed the new core support, radiator with 2 fans and the shroud it came with,and the a.c. condensor it was 24 pounds lighter ( I did not weigh the overflow because it going in the rear). The radiator is like a 4 core aluminum from them. Its not the biggest one they offer because I am trying to save weight. I did use bigger fans(2). The core support is double wall so I can lighten it more on the back side. If you are not driving on the streets in Houston you can get away with lighter fans and radiator. I never found any glass bumpers or fenders. I found a 1 piece glass front end. I did want that , so I will lighten my steel fenders and use a steel bumper to make my own bumpers in fiberglass. What I am trying to get off is as close to 500lbs from the back of the cab to the front, This is of off the stock truck. The suspension wheels tires brakes where 204 lbs, hood and hinges radiator and core support should be put it at 300. I am adding weight back in with the engine and roll bar, but the closer I am to 500 off the better off I will be (LOL I never weighed the truck to start with). The radiator in the bed would move a bunch, like the gas tank(I really did not figure the fluid weights in my 500lb target). I want real glass windows and steel doors. As far as the bed goes I have a Porterbuilt bolt in notch . It will be welded in as well, and I have to get Robert to build the shock crossmembers and brace the c-notch. The floor has to be raised 4 or 5 inches , and I want big tubs so I can run any tire . I want the floor removable to work on the shocks etc. Just clean sheet metal work . But I may paint it like carbon fiber or some trick wood. Send me your email and I will try to find some pics of ideas. I am no where close to doing the bed work yet on my truck. On the Pro stock trucks we ran it had a carbon fiber tailgate skin. That is where I got the idea from. I dont think I will need to open it much any way. I will try to weigh my stock tailgate this weekend. Anyone know what a stock small block with air cleaner ,alt, Ac ,Power steering would weigh?

[moggey01]

Hey H82lose did you ever measure the width of your axle housing?(wheel width and back spacing also) I remember you had a pretty big tire on your truck , Im trying to get a ball park for a big and little tire combo. I will do a drawing of my bed idea and email it to you.

[68 C-10 KID]

H82lUSE,
Missed ya at the Halloween classic this year in Boise. You even made it on the Flyer....
I really wish one of these fiberglass company's would step up and start making all the parts we need.
My dad and I are going to try making the front bumper in glass over the winter. He has been U-tubing the hell out of the how to vids.
hope to see you and your truck run again. SOON!

[moggey01]

Here is an idea for the back side of the core support or your chute/ wing mounts . It takes some time but the end result is cool looking. I will do something like this on my core support when I get a chance. I am working on a inner bed design that I will post later on

[H82LUSE]

Originally Posted by moggey01

Hey H82lose did you ever measure the width of your axle housing?(wheel width and back spacing also) I remember you had a pretty big tire on your truck , Im trying to get a ball park for a big and little tire combo. I will do a drawing of my bed idea and email it to you.

hey sorry yes i did my wheels are centerline convopros 15x14 with a 4 5/8" backspacing the diff i have to measure again for ya im thinking of going to a fab 9 maybe instead of the dana60 the tire is a 33x16 hoosier

[H82LUSE]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

H82lUSE,
Missed ya at the Halloween classic this year in Boise. You even made it on the Flyer....
I really wish one of these fiberglass company's would step up and start making all the parts we need.
My dad and I are going to try making the front bumper in glass over the winter. He has been U-tubing the hell out of the how to vids.
hope to see you and your truck run again. SOON!

Hey bud ya we wanted to go but it was just to busy at work to get away this year. We did see the flyer tho. We did make it to the et finals in Seattle this year tho was sweet running that close to sea level was running 8.80s straight up on all motor i will try and post some good wheelie pics this year

[moggey01]

ok I took a pic of the drawing to post a sample of what I have in mind. My floor will be raised about 5 inches from the C notch back , but it will pretty much be the same. Just replacing steel with aluminum everywhere on the inside.

[H82LUSE]

That is a sweet pic I cant wait to see it when its done do you have any pics of your truck?

[moggey01]

LOL I am working on the frame now. The truck is not much to look at now, The cab sheet metal will probably be started in Jan. or Feb. Hopefully the be will be started in the next 5 or 6 months. Its at a chassis shop that has just opened and it it a 1 man show. I do some fab work and stuff but I am not a welder. I currently work 6 nights a week so I have about 6-7 hours a week to work on it. You can see it on the 67-72 build thread "The Mother Trucker" . Anyway next year this time it should look like a truck, I have to go get the jig and start squaring everything up this weekend.
Thanks
Mark

[moggey01]

Hey I found a new spot to get rid of some weight. The cab floor I started laying mine out ,not sure how much it will take off yet but I will let you know. I have a few pics of the layout I will post later.
Mark

[Marv D]

Just a FYI,, if you alter the stock FLOOR or FIREWALL you have to have a CAGE (not a bar, a SFI 8.50 CAGE, and SFI WINDOW NET and SFI TRANS SHIELD and SFI FLEXPLATE / FLYWHEEL SHIELD... not positive what that does to the driver attire requirements for sure, but I believe you will have to have double layer jacket and pants, gloves and neck collar.

Cutting the floor and firewall is really counterproductive if you add up all the $ you have to throw at safety stuff... and the weight it adds. Well at least your wallet will be a lot lighter

[moggey01]

I will have a cage , and all the safety stuff anyway. My floor has to be cut for the trailing arm crossmember and the tunnel has to be raised to clear the tranny. ( I am using a body drop) .The firewall and floor are otherwise stock replacement parts . I realize that your adding weight with safety stuff that is why I have to find a way to counter that as much as I can. LOL its only my time... I want as much as I can get off from the cab forward. My wallet has been light my whole life because of racing . The whole lightening thing is a design element that is used throughout the project. Alot of time , but it does serve a purpose.

[moggey01]

I did pick up some fiberglass front inner wheel wells . Pretty light at 8 lbs. I got a deal because they where sitting in a wharehouse. $100.00 for both sides. Not sure what the factory steal ones weigh but I had to replace what I had anyway.

[gofastnut]

Any updates?