Pacesetter TBSS Long Tube Header Install on my 6.0L in my 69' C10

[matthew20061]

Over the last couple weeks I picked up a set of Pacestter long tube headers (1 3/4", 3" collector) made specifically for a Trailblazer SS. After reading about c10seconds success with the Kooks TBSS headers. Anyways these Pacesetter version fit with a couple mods to the frame on the drivers side, I had to cut out the lower frame slightly so the collector would fit since it is swept over for the trailblazers front driveshaft.
I bought them from Amazon, free 2nd day air shipping to Alaska so I couldn't beat the deal on them Part number was 72C2276 for the ceramic coated headers and I bought the cross over pipe for the trailblazer as I hopped it might fit too but it did not still used it with some major modifications.
Anyways overall the fit is good enough for me! Here are some pics of what they look like installed on my truck and also a detailed video of the top and underside.









Watch video here:

1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed LS Swap Pacesetter...

[smoky02]

I am doing the exact same setup except using an LQ4. Do you know what kind of power you are putting down?

[dkauffman05]

I just used a set on a 67 and had to do very little triming.

[cjohnson6772]

I have these same headers arriving tomorrow. I was really hoping i could avoid any frame mods. Any info on your engine placement? I see stock engine towers. Are they in the front v8 holes? Also what engine adapter plates are you running? Do you think i could modify the header collector and get by with no frame notch? I'm running Pol stands and the plates that move the engine forward about an inch.
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[matthew20061]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

I have these same headers arriving tomorrow. I was really hoping i could avoid any frame mods. Any info on your engine placement? I see stock engine towers. Are they in the front v8 holes? Also what engine adapter plates are you running? Do you think i could modify the header collector and get by with no frame notch? I'm running Pol stands and the plates that move the engine forward about an inch.
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The engine towers are mounted in the rear holes, since it originally had a six cylinder in it. The adapter plates are simple adapters to the stock SBC mounts I think they keep it in a stock location. So overall my original frame towers are in the rear holes and my engine adapters are locating the engine basically stock if not slightly back as I have lots of space in front of the engine. You might be able to get away without the frame notch I'm not sure. Just test fit them with the plastic on and return them if they don't fit like you want.

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by matthew20061

The engine towers are mounted in the rear holes, since it originally had a six cylinder in it. The adapter plates are simple adapters to the stock SBC mounts I think they keep it in a stock location. So overall my original frame towers are in the rear holes and my engine adapters are locating the engine basically stock if not slightly back as I have lots of space in front of the engine. You might be able to get away without the frame notch I'm not sure. Just test fit them with the plastic on and return them if they don't fit like you want.

Great info man. Thanks for sharing.
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[matthew20061]

Originally Posted by smoky02

I am doing the exact same setup except using an LQ4. Do you know what kind of power you are putting down?

Not sure what power I'm putting down as of yet but this is where I got my build from: Link
If I get a chance this summer I might get it on a dyno and see what number it will put down. I also plan to take it to the track this spring and get some drag radials and see what it will run with these headers. Best I did before on a base tune was 13.4 spinning out and the tune not living up to its full potential. Now the tune is better and traction is more of an issue and I'm sure the headers will add to that problem lol...

[1970 C10 MJW]

subd

[cjohnson6772]

I'm trying to buy the rest of my exhaust and my engine is at the machine shop so I can't mock the headers up just yet. Any chance you could give me the center line dimension between the collectors? I'm basically buying a universal x pipe kit and the width determines the length too and I wanna make sure I don't need more pipe. Thanks in advance man.
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[matthew20061]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

I'm trying to buy the rest of my exhaust and my engine is at the machine shop so I can't mock the headers up just yet. Any chance you could give me the center line dimension between the collectors? I'm basically buying a universal x pipe kit and the width determines the length too and I wanna make sure I don't need more pipe. Thanks in advance man.
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I'll try and get you some measurements of between the collector width the truck is outside under cover so it might be a couple of days until I get around to it.

[Bombero412]

How far below the frame do the headers extend?
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[matthew20061]

Originally Posted by Bombero412

How far below the frame do the headers extend?
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The truck isn't accessible right now for me to measure but I believe the passenger side is slightly lower and hangs about 1" below or less from what I remember and the driver side is up slightly more. You can see in my pictures above, use the oil pan and transmission pan for height references. Oil pan is the stock truck pan if that helps.

[Bombero412]

Thanks, I also enjoyed you video on the build of your engine. I think Im staying stock, just adding headers for now. Would I have to get my ecm reprogrammed if I added a cam? Oh, I also watched the vid of the guys doing the harness. I didnt know that was yours.
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[matthew20061]

Originally Posted by Bombero412

Thanks, I also enjoyed you video on the build of your engine. I think Im staying stock, just adding headers for now. Would I have to get my ecm reprogrammed if I added a cam? Oh, I also watched the vid of the guys doing the harness. I didnt know that was yours.
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Glad you enjoyed them! Yes you will need your ecm reprogrammed if you add a cam, it will also need to be programmed so the VATS is turned off at a minimum in a swap like this.

[cjohnson6772]

What kind of plug wires are you using that clear those headers?
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[matthew20061]

The plug wires aren't great and are a little on the short side in some places, but they are the plug wires for a 96-98 K1500 Truck. With some persuasion they clip onto the coil packs that I have relocated in the frame rails and with some "custom" zip ties to keep them from touching anything they seem to work great. I would look into a MSD wire kit, that's what I was going to use but didn't want to pay the price.

[BigRed76]

Kind of digging up an old thread, but do you remember how much you had to trim off of the driver side frame rail to clear the collector?

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by BigRed76

Kind of digging up an old thread, but do you remember how much you had to trim off of the driver side frame rail to clear the collector?

Collector fits like a glove. No trimming needed. #1 primary requires clearancing on top of frame rail. #2 primary is very tight against plug wire. Nothing to do with frame. Just poor design. Plan on bendable MSD wires and heat socks. Not a problem though.

[cjohnson6772]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/stwu9sa7yn...195412_521.jpg

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https://www.dropbox.com/s/1wkt1wz8ud...195400_235.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rr4zm094h8fvtal/mfo8dGHJhx

[BigRed76]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

Collector fits like a glove. No trimming needed. #1 primary requires clearancing on top of frame rail. #2 primary is very tight against plug wire. Nothing to do with frame. Just poor design. Plan on bendable MSD wires and heat socks. Not a problem though.

Thanks for that info. I thought the #1 primary looked a little tight in the picture, but I guess those clearances might vary a little depending on motor mount setups.

[cjohnson6772]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/psy3ekjj82...8235495512.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/eshgjmf6fw...193625_067.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/udnbfqfczx...8-31-49_78.jpg

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https://www.dropbox.com/s/su1tjuue9b...-32-14_309.jpg

[cjohnson6772]

Pain in the rear to click all the links, but I didn't feel like downsizing all those pics. If you're considering the headers it is definitely worth the clicks.

[BigRed76]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

Pain in the rear to click all the links, but I didn't feel like downsizing all those pics. If you're considering the headers it is definitely worth the clicks.

I appreciate you sharing the pics. They look like they fit really nice, and the price helps too.

[BigRed76]

And no aftermarket oil dipstick required?

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by BigRed76

And no aftermarket oil dipstick required?

stock f body dipstick and pan. no issues. kinda like the factory dipstick to be honest.