Ok, ultimate newbie question!

[Russell]

hehe, I have taken apart and put a steering column back together, rebuilt a master cylinder, but I can't figure out how to get my brake pads off :P They are incredibly thin and need to be replaced before I can pass my inspection :'(

[Prerunner1982]

where are you stuck at? there should be 2 "bolt"s that hold it in place.

[Russell]

Everything is completely coated with mud... I couldn't find and bolts in there... Any suggestions as to where they should be found? I can only see the pads and the drum clearly, I saw two spots that looked like they might have been bolts, but appeared to be smooth all the way around...

[Prerunner1982]

i beleive they use allen wrenches to get them out, its been awhile since i taken them off. there are other guys here that can help ya.

[Russell]

Anyone with a picture? I would appreciate it, I am doing these brakes myself, and I really don't want to mess them up for obvious reasons :P

[RockHQ]

Two allen head bolts hold the floating caliper to the bracket. Just unbolt these and lift off the caliper. There can't be that much mud on the brakes for you to not see them at all. The brake pads more than likely have worn out the brake rotor (disc), leaving a ridge at the diameter of the rotor. That makes lifting the caliper off of the disc difficult as the brake pad ends will have to slide over the ridge. You can help this by filing a section of the rotor diameter level on both sides, then turning the section under the caliper. When you remove the caliper don't leave it hanging from the brake hose or bend the hose too much.

[Russell]

Alright, I noticed those two ridges, didn't think that they should be there, and is probally why I didn't hear the indicator squeal on the rear brakes (the front ones didn't work at all) I'll check it out soon

[87 STEPPER]

Ok some info was left out by the others

First thing the bolts dont have external flats there smooth and have an internal hex or allen the size is 3/8

Now if your doing the left side turn the wheel all the way to the right and vice versa for the right side now look at the back side of the caliper and at the top and you should see the two bolts one at the front and rear remove them and then lift the caliper off and the pads will be able to be removed the inboard one will have a small metal clip attached to it dont throw it away you will need to install it on the new pad it holds it in the caliper piston to aid in reinstalling it on to the rotor.

Hope that helps ya.

[PHOENIX]

Disclaimer, this is for help only, do not blame me if something goes wrong.

Front Disc Brakes for 2wd:

(Drum brakes are harder to explain and only need to be replaced about 1/2 the time as the front, but should always be checked for wear at the same time.)

Put a brick behind the rear tires
Loosen the lug nuts (do not remove) front tires only
Jack the truck up (front end)
Put jack stands under it (front end)
Slowly lower the jack until the truck is resting on the jack stands
Take the lug nuts off
Take the tires off
Get the allen wrench and loosen the bolts (on the inside (backside) of caliper)
Take the bolt(s) out while holding the caliper assembly
Lift the caliper assembly up and off the rotor
hold with caliper with one hand and remove the pads with the other (they may just fall out)
places the caliper on something to hold it up (one of the structures right behind the rotor)
this is a good time to check the rubber lines for cracks or leaks
replace the rubber lines if damaged
check your rotor for damage (grooves)
if you have noticeable grooves you should get your rotors turned or replace them
remove the round cap at the end of the rotor with a flat screw driver (pop the cap off)
remove the cotter pin and castle nut
remove the rotor
check bearings for damage
check the rotor for smooth where the bearings ride (smooth shaft)
grease bearings and reinstall (DO THIS!, do not skip this step)
put good rotor and bearings back on
install castle nut
install NEW cotter pin (recommended)
place rotor end cap back on (using rubber mallet if needed)
get a C-Clamp, piece of strong wood or steel (steel is preferred)
place the piece of steel over the piston (inside caliper, where the brake pad rested)
place the c-clamp over the steel and caliper so you can push the piston into the caliper without putting direct stress on the caliper, the steel plate is used to evenly distribute force across the piston to eliminate piston damage (very important)
crank the c-clamp until the piston is in, do not force it all the way if it stops a little short
remove the c-clamp and steel plate
place the pads inside the caliper
place the caliper over the rotor, you may need to hold the pads inside the caliper until the assembly is installed over the rotor
install the caliper bolts (put them both in, then snug one, then snug the other, then tighten both)
Do that on both sides, you should be good to go.

If the pedal is squishy then you need to bleed the brake lines or replace the master cylinder.
Once you install the new master cylinder (as you stated you are going to do) you should "bench bleed it".
Most master cylinders come with a bench bleed kit now.
They are little plastic fittings that screw into the MC where the brake lines usually attach.
These little plastic fittings will also have clear plastic lines attached to them
Install the MC on the booster
Screw these plastic fittings into the brake line ports on the MC
Fill the MC reservoir with proper brake fluid
Hold both plastic lines inside the MC reservoir (under the fluid, like you are drowning them)
Have someone pump the brake pedal
Continue to pump the brake pedal and hold the lines under the fluid, until no more bubbles come out of the clear plastic lines
Your MC is now "bench bled"
Remove the plastic fittings and clear lines
Install the brake lines to the MC (you should use the proper line wrench for this)
Check MC reservoir fluid level
Try to keep the proper level all the time (if you have a drinking buddy who stands around have him stand here and keep adding fluid to the MC reservoir as needed)

Once the brake lines are installed to the MC
You will need to bleed the lines themselves
Two people are better then one for this job (3 is yet better, drinking buddy again)
Bleed the brake lines in this order at each wheel
Rear Driver
Rear Passenger
Front Passenger
Front Driver
If possible place a clear plastic line over the bleeder valve and submerge it into a cup with brake fluid in it (like you did the MC bleeding)
The above is cleaner and doesn’t get fluid all over, plus you are less likely to suck air back into the lines if the line is submerged in fluid
Put the proper wrench over the bleeding valve at the wheel you are working on
Have the other person pump the brake pedal 3 times then hold it to the floor (keep holding)
You (person at bleeding valve) slowly open the valve and allow the fluid and bubbles to pass through the plastic line and into the cup
Close the bleeding valve and tell the other person to release the pedal and pump 3 times again and hold
Open the bleeding valve and let the fluid and bubbles into the cup.
Close the bleeding valve and tell the person to release the pedal.
Continue this process on each wheel (in the order stated above)
You should do this cycle at each wheel 5-6 times to clear the fluid and make sure you have all the air out.
If the person at the pedal release the pedal while the bleeding valve is open it will suck air into the lines and that is what you are trying to eliminate.
After every 2-3 pump, hold, open, close, release cycles you should check the MC reservoir for proper fluid level (if you don’t have a 3 rd guy doing it already, or if he passed out)
If the MC reservoir runs low you will pump air into the system and you will have to start over. So be sure to check the MC reservoir fluid level often.
The person pumping the brake pedal will notice the pedal getting stiffer
Once all the lines are bled (in order) the pedal should feel perfect.
If not you did the bleeding process wrong, or you have bad lines, or a bad brake booster.
Your vacuum to the booster also plays a role.
Don’t worry about those things unless the bleeding didn’t work.

I am sure I forgot something, but maybe not.
Other will probably add to this list which will help a ton.

[Russell]

Wow! Thanks, this tutorial has everything that I need, unfortunatly, I don't have a drinking buddy who is already drunk to help me check the level in the MC, but I think that we should be alright

Thanks again, After I have gotten these brakes done I can get this vehicle on the road, which will be incredibly nice as I have needed it quite a bit in the past couple of weeks...

[jimfulco]

When you get the caliper mounted, be sure you clamp the little ears on the top of the outboard pads down as much as possible so the pads don't make noise when you brake. Use Channel-locks.

[rockman20]

Here is a little bit of advice that I like to do. Sometimes these newer pads make horrible noises. Most of the time it is just because of cheap pads and cheap compounds.

But sometimes it is because the backing plate on the pad rubs on the caliper causing the noise. Some manufacturers put some anti-squeek plates in there to try to prevent this. Me, I will use them if they are in there, but I also use some blue RTV. Place the pad in the caliper to find out where the contact points are. Then put a layer of blue RTV there and then put the pads back in the caliper. This will cause a cushion of RTV and usually helps eliminate that annoying squeek.

[Low Truck FNG]

The only thing Phoenix forgot is where you bust your knuckles, throw the wrench, pull the hanging chunk of skin off and wrap the hand in a clean rag to sop up the blood. Drink a beer while your buddies laugh, find the wrench, and resume work.

[Russell]

Originally posted by Low Truck FNG
The only thing Phoenix forgot is where you bust your knuckles, throw the wrench, pull the hanging chunk of skin off and wrap the hand in a clean rag to sop up the blood. Drink a beer while your buddies laugh, find the wrench, and resume work.

Haha :p

Brakes are almost done, just gotta put my Master Cylinder back together, check the rear drums, then bleed the brakes.