Solid axle guys....shocks??

[Coach529]

http://www.performanceonline.com/194...ock-Absorbers/

Anybody used these?

[focusedontheprize]

Unfortunately I am no help on that, however with my dropped solid axle....

Because of the mounts I bought (http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...s/4754FSBL.htm) I end up going with studs on both sides for my shocks.

You are making your own mounts (I believe I read that) so let me know how they come out.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by focusedontheprize

Unfortunately I am no help on that, however with my dropped solid axle....

Because of the mounts I bought (http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...s/4754FSBL.htm) I end up going with studs on both sides for my shocks.

You are making your own mounts (I believe I read that) so let me know how they come out.

The picture is not accurate according to POL. They fit with OEM mounts.

Just trying to get some feedback and justify $90 per shock vs $30 per shock.

You got Monroes correct?

[focusedontheprize]

Originally Posted by Coach529

The picture is not accurate according to POL. They fit with OEM mounts.

Just trying to get some feedback and justify $90 per shock vs $30 per shock.

You got Monroes correct?

I did. My perspective was I will run them with this setup first (didn't even have shocks in the front in the beginning) and I will go from there.

I remember you posting something about shocks before and noticed how much they were. I am going to run shocks in the back too and I can always swap them out in the end if I am not happy.

[mr48chev]

You don't need a special lowered rig shock unless you have springs that are changed to lower the rig. A dropped axle on stock springs will still take a stock length shock.

I'm with Coach529 in that 90 bucks each sounds pretty ritzy for shocks for an AD truck.
Bragging rights may be worth the extra cost though.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

You don't need a special lowered rig shock unless you have springs that are changed to lower the rig. A dropped axle on stock springs will still take a stock length shock.

I'm with Coach529 in that 90 bucks each sounds pretty ritzy for shocks for an AD truck.
Bragging rights may be worth the extra cost though.

I dropped out a couple leaves, that is why I was thinking I needed the lowered shock.

Wish I knew someone who has used them......

[mr48chev]

Probably a good idea then. I always figure that if an outfit offers a "special" shock for a situation that shock or an equal is available somewhere for a non special price.

Looking at Bilstein shocks that looks like pretty much the regular price though.

[sqrlnts]

FYI, I am waiting on shocks from Performance Online. Nitro Slammers for lowered trucks, $50 a corner. Will update once they are on.

[hsdropout]

Doetch tech "Nitro Slammers" (sounds cool) are fairly short but fit up well with mono-leafs.
Sqrints, let us know how they work out for you.

[sqrlnts]

Initial around the block feel of the Nitro Slammers are great! What a difference compared to no shocks :-) They feel pretty firm but not harsh. Going to run down to the Chandler car show tomorrow to test them fully. I am a little concerned about compressed length. My 3 leaf front setup is pretty low and I am a bit worried about bottoming them out. Time will tell.

[sqrlnts]

quick update, shocks are badass. Its like driving a sorted 56 year old slammed solid axle! Bumps that threw the truck into a bucking frenzy are now not even a worry. I would recommend these shocks. Period.

[dubie]

these are the same shocks I have on the front and rear of my 56. Unfortunately I can't give you an opinion on how they ride. Did you mount yours the same as this sqrlnts? I mounted mine the opposite way just because the stamping on the shock is upside down otherwise.

For the $48 per shock, how could you go wrong?

[sqrlnts]

Originally Posted by dubie

these are the same shocks I have on the front and rear of my 56. Unfortunately I can't give you an opinion on how they ride. Did you mount yours the same as this sqrlnts? I mounted mine the opposite way just because the stamping on the shock is upside down otherwise.

For the $48 per shock, how could you go wrong?

I called Performance Online Tech line and they said to mount them with the can down or the valving would not work properly, so that is how I mounted mine.

[Dan in Pasadena]

http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/index.p...s-_-121262-_-X

[dubie]

Originally Posted by sqrlnts

I called Performance Online Tech line and they said to mount them with the can down or the valving would not work properly, so that is how I mounted mine.

Can down meaning that the ones pictured above are installed upside down?

I had my rear ones installed upside down and the back end was so stiff, I couldn't imagine driving it like that. As soon as I flipped them over, the suspension had some give to it.

[sqrlnts]

Originally Posted by dubie

Can down meaning that the ones pictured above are installed upside down?

I had my rear ones installed upside down and the back end was so stiff, I couldn't imagine driving it like that. As soon as I flipped them over, the suspension had some give to it.

You got it dubie brother!
Posted via Mobile Device

[hsdropout]

Wow, I guess I better check this out some more and perhaps flip mine over?
I guess I just assumed the can went up.
Anyone got more photos?

[dubie]

This is how I put mine together

[hsdropout]

Dube, it looks like your shock is pretty much extended to end of travel.
I assumed it should be somewhere north of midway of travel (if that makes sense). So when engine weight is added, it is basically in middle of travel. Just my uneducated deduction. Guess I'd better get more info.
Your frame looks excellent by the way, nice work.

[dubie]

it's damn near fully extended hanging on jack stands like that. Once it was on the rims and tires and the engine in, it came down 1/3, right where it's supposed to be. Once the rest of the body, the rad and all the other goodies go on, it'll sit about mid way or a big higher.

Thanks on the props on the frame. I wanted something different from the every day black frame.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Dubie,
Whose dropped axle do you have there? Looks like maybe CPP's? Doesn't look like Sid's.

Also, any particular reason you went with a monoleaf instead of a leaf pack? My review of the website claims is that the mono claims 3" lowering. The multi leaves claims 2-1/2" lowering. IF there's only about 1/2" difference, I'd rather have the peace of mind the multi leaves give me. But maybe I'm wrong.

[dubie]

It's a CPP dropped axle. For me it was all about cost and availability when it came to these parts. I bought them through a Canadian company that buys from the big companies in the USA and they paid the shipping. For me to ship my axle to Sid, have the work done and ship it back would have cost me $150 more than buying a new axle. And I went with mono leafs because at that time, it seemed everyone was using them to drop these trucks. I don't plan to haul a load or drive this thing like an auto cross truck, this is just a cruiser, so the mono's seemed to suit the build for me.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok thanks. Yeah I forgot the Canada shipping cost thing.

Don't get me wrong; I'm not talking down monoleafs. I remember very well when they were new and THE thing to do. You couldn't even get leaf packs that were for lowering then as far as I know.

I DO plan to (someday) tow my Jetski trailer to the local lake occasionally and though I think the monoleafs would handle such light weight easily with air shocks it couldn't hurt to have some extra margin. That said, when I get down to pulling the trigger if I can get a better deal on monoleafs I'd likely go for them.

I'm kinda wondering if a new CPP axle (of course w/new king pins) would end up being cheaper than a Sid's axle on which I'd have to pay for king pin installation separately? Does CPP offer the modified drag link/pitman arm (or whatever it is) to compensate for bump steer? And if you have that/those have you had an issue with bump steer?

[sqrlnts]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok thanks. Yeah I forgot the Canada shipping cost thing.

Don't get me wrong; I'm not talking down monoleafs. I remember very well when they were new and THE thing to do. You couldn't even get leaf packs that were for lowering then as far as I know.

I DO plan to (someday) tow my Jetski trailer to the local lake occasionally and though I think the monoleafs would handle such light weight easily with air shocks it couldn't hurt to have some extra margin. That said, when I get down to pulling the trigger if I can get a better deal on monoleafs I'd likely go for them.

I'm kinda wondering if a new CPP axle (of course w/new king pins) would end up being cheaper than a Sid's axle on which I'd have to pay for king pin installation separately? Does CPP offer the modified drag link/pitman arm (or whatever it is) to compensate for bump steer? And if you have that/those have you had an issue with bump steer?

hey Dan, I think I can help as I am running the same setup but with stock leafs. You WILL experience bump steer with the stock drag link in a lowered application.

My route to lessen this issue was to have Sid reverse the taper on the steering arm end which will enable me to install the drag link from the bottom instead of the top. This will help to level the drag link to horizontal but creates another problem. You will need to have/make an adjustable drag link to center the steering wheel because the new angle will cause the wheel to be cocked to one side.

I also had Sid taper the tie rod hole in the steering arm from the bottom so the tie rod will clearance my leaf springs. This may or may not be necessary with monoleafs or posie super slides.

[dubie]

i had to heat and bend my steering arm to make it all line up. The drag link, I bought from CPP, it's a solid 1 piece that's 1 1/2 times thicker than stock and. Honestly, the toughest part of the entire front end set up is heating and bending that steering arm. The rest is just basic geometry.
I used the length and taper of the new drag link to measure how far I needed to bend the arm, and while we heated and moved everything, we stopped to let it cool and test fit the fit of everything. I have yet to drive the truck but everything lines up great, so I don't foresee having any bump steer issues.