73-87 Front end price check

[joeydirt]

So Im going to go to a couple salvage yards tomorrow and was wondering what a fair price would be to pull a front k member, control arms, spindles, brakes, ect

thanks

[brokenspoke]

$50 to $150 depending on condition

[Captainfab]

I used to sell complete front suspensions with steering box and steering linkage for $125.00. Of course they were already removed from the donor truck/Suburban. This has been several years ago too.

[bo-w]

I got a cut off section with the gearbox, linkage and suspension and brake master. For 100 from a fellow enthusiast
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[SCOTI]

If they pull everything & include a couple of wheels too, no more than $200. Just the parts or you pull it all, $150 max.

[63sbssbbw]

120 for mine..I pulled it
hub to hub. incl. box and pump.and prop valve
T

[harpo1313]

theres really not much value for the junkyard on the front clip exept maybe the spindles and an occational control arm ,so the value should be as quoted above.dont forget the sway bar and bracket.

[Born Lucky]

i just got quoted for 250 at the nearest yard. This guy is ALWAYS trying to hit hard, that is why I never give him my money. I have a local guy that sels them for 150 I was looking at the yards for a better price.

[forestb]

If you are going to pull it out yourself I would cut the frame instead if trying to unbolt it. I spent half a day trying to unbolt one and gave up. Came back the next day and cut the frame apart in a couple of hours. It also helps when it comes time to line up the bolt holes for the steering so you can measure against the old frame rails. Also bring a friend those thing way a ton (not literally).

If you are replacing the front cross member just to add disks I would just buy a disk brake kit. Also I think there is a way of installing those a arms with out replacing the hole cross member. If you are doing it to replace torsion bar suspension I wouldn't bother unless you are going to bag it. There are other ways of lowering it.

[joeydirt]

Originally Posted by forestb

If you are going to pull it out yourself I would cut the frame instead if trying to unbolt it. I spent half a day trying to unbolt one and gave up. Came back the next day and cut the frame apart in a couple of hours. It also helps when it comes time to line up the bolt holes for the steering so you can measure against the old frame rails. Also bring a friend those thing way a ton (not literally).

If you are replacing the front cross member just to add disks I would just buy a disk brake kit. Also I think there is a way of installing those a arms with out replacing the hole cross member. If you are doing it to replace torsion bar suspension I wouldn't bother unless you are going to bag it. There are other ways of lowering it.

Im doing it for a few reasons
-i have a c20 and theres not many wheels I want in 8 lug
-I want disks
-i want power brakes and power steering(not really relevant at this point)
-seems like rebuild parts for the 73-87 front end are more common, cost less and have more options
-I guess thats about it Im sure there are some other pros out there

I found one that I can cut the frame and all off for 150

[ljackson]

Originally Posted by joeydirt

Im doing it for a few reasons
-i have a c20 and theres not many wheels I want in 8 lug
-I want disks
-i want power brakes and power steering(not really relevant at this point)
-seems like rebuild parts for the 73-87 front end are more common, cost less and have more options
-I guess thats about it Im sure there are some other pros out there

I found one that I can cut the frame and all off for 150

They go for around 100.00 cut off, in my area. I would go with above rather than paying more for someone to take it apart that does not take care. The sway bar brackets are rivited. You may not be able to reuse the brackets if someone doesn't take care removing. I believe you can get them aftermarket for lowered trucks but I have not found them for stock stance.

[B_Bob]

I bought a whole 1974 parts truck for $500 without motor and trans. After removing all the parts I needed (Front crossmember, rear axle, brake booster, and power steering) I've sold most of the remainder of the truck for $705 so far! Takes some time and effort, but has helped the budget.

[joeydirt]

Originally Posted by B_Bob

I bought a whole 1974 parts truck for $500 without motor and trans. After removing all the parts I needed (Front crossmember, rear axle, brake booster, and power steering) I've sold most of the remainder of the truck for $705 so far! Takes some time and effort, but has helped the budget.

this is what I would like to do but I cant have a truck sitting around that doesnt roll. I dont have a garage and where I live any vehicles on the property are suppose to be registered, and running(i already push it)

[dracko]

Not to hijack the thread, but would control arms from a 1974 era truck bolt onto a 64-66? I want to do the mod for the same reasons but was planning to just use the arms/spindles off a donor truck combined with new rotors/calipers/ball joints...etc..

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by dracko

Not to hijack the thread, but would control arms from a 1974 era truck bolt onto a 64-66? I want to do the mod for the same reasons but was planning to just use the arms/spindles off a donor truck combined with new rotors/calipers/ball joints...etc..

They sure will....and lots less work

[B_Bob]

Originally Posted by brokenspoke

They sure will....and lots less work

I'm doing the same swap right now. From what I've read, the C20 mounts for the control arms are different than the C10. The the 73+ arms would fit on a C10 but not C20. That is why you would need the whole crossmember. You also can't just bolt up the spindles as the ball joints are different. I haven't made the swap yet myself, but as I understand it, I will only have to drill 2 holes and the whole thing will bolt right in.

[gmcdeadhead]

i'm picking up a 87 chevy 1 ton chassis this weekend , so i can use the rear , front end and all brake and power steerring componets. getting whole chassis for $600.00

[gofastnut]

You guys are pretty lucky! I was looking at one, the guy wanted and got $500 for the front crossmember complete!

[64shortbed]

A buddy of mine just bought a complete 1980 1/2 ton for $250. We are going to rip out the motor, trns, cross member, brake booster, column, rear end etc.... and take the parts we need and take one of the 6 60-66 pickups he has and make him a 65 short bed pickup.
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[joeydirt]

what tools should I bring to remove one from a junker? Are they just bolted on?

[forestb]

Originally Posted by joeydirt

what tools should I bring to remove one from a junker? Are they just bolted on?

I started early on a Saturday planning on unbolting it. I gave up around noon. Came back on a Sunday with a few batteries and blades and a battery powered sawzall and finished in a few hours. I would cut behind the cross member and in front of where the steering connects so that you can use that for a pattern later. Make sure you support the secure of the vehicle well so that it does not fall on you.

[chevy69chevelle]

I paid $350 for a complete truck(3/4 ton), sold the engine for $350, kept the booster/master as well, scrapped the rest and made $200 I torched the frame in front and behind the cross member both sides because I'm lazy.

[joeydirt]

Originally Posted by chevy69chevelle

I paid $350 for a complete truck(3/4 ton), sold the engine for $350, kept the booster/master as well, scrapped the rest and made $200 I torched the frame in front and behind the cross member both sides because I'm lazy.

thats what I wanted to do originally but the lowest I ever see whole trucks go for around here is 6-700, always have a 305 never 350, and are pretty rough. Anyway I got one yesterday for 150.

[McCoyAZ]

'76 crossmember complete for $200 loaded in my truck.