Starting Problems

[wayne4252004]

Need some good advice on the starting problem I'm having with my truck. When I turn the key, I can pretty much count about three seconds before the starter kicks in and starts the truck. When the starter does engage it is very sluggish. So far I've replaced the battery and I've had the starter checked at the local parts store. What else can I do to troubleshoot the starter? All the parts store guy did was plug it into a machine and turned it over three times.

[Stepside Jim]

wayne4252004, with the wide range of engines and drive trains being installed in these old trucks we need an engine type.

[OrrieG]

Sounds like ignition switch or solenoid. Use a voltmeter and check for voltage at the solenoid purple wire when someone turns the switch to start. If you get instant voltage switch is ok. If there is a delay switch contact is going bad. With voltage to the switch it should engage right away. If it delays solenoid is bad. You might find that tapping on it right when the ing switch is thrown will get it to work. When I was a poor kid my friends got that drill down pretty good, we carried a 2 foot cut off broom handle for when the solenoid would hang up. If the solenoid is engaging right away then it is starter, but since you already replaced that I would focus on solenoid.

[sweet70beast]

What type of battery are you using? Top post or side post? If it is a side post corrosion loves to hide inside the rubber/plastic coating around the battery side of the wire. I always cut that stuff off for that reason. The rubber part I'm talking about is colored red or black on the battery side of the wire.

[mud.man.rj]

I used to work at a Gm rebuild shop and tested starters, the problem with testing a starter is there is no load on it when testing, not like an alt when testing so would still aim at the starter as long as voltage is tested good as mentioned already.

[mr48chev]

Over the past 50 years most of the fails to crank well conditions I have run across are due to a bad connection somewhere in the system.

Check both battery cables all the way from one end to the other. Check for corrosion between the cable and the ends. Check the contact between the ground and the block.
On an old six cylinder GM truck I would first suspect the ground circuit from the battery to the block. Quite often the battery is grounded to the frame and the there is a woven ground strap from the frame to the engine. Each connection in that setup has to be clean and bare for it to work.
If you just painted the engine, did you scrape the spot under where the ground cable or strap bolts on to bare metal so it gets a good connecton?
Is the bolt holding it to the block tight and clean?
Are the battery terminals tight and clean? No wheel bearing grease on the inside of the terminal to prevent corrosion like Uncle Louie said to do at the last family picnic.
Was the bellhousing where the starter bolts up clean and bare metal so it gets a good connection. I've fixed more than one freshly assembled no start problem simply by s

craping the paint off places that have to have a good solid connection for electrical current to pass through.

Check the wires running to the switch and from the switch to the solenoid to make sure that they are in good shape and the correct size. Make sure that the ends are tight and the connections on the switch are tight. Go down the wire and check for any taped spots where the wire may have been spliced and pull the tape off and check the splice. You might have a corroded twisted together wire under a piece of tape causing the issue. If the wire is a different color at the switch than at the solenoid find out why.

If the starter is a not too old parts house rebuilt there is a good chance that it was assembled with dry or nearly dry bushings that cause a drag when you first start to crank the engine that doesn't show up on the starter tester at Autozone.

Those are some of the things I have seen over the years that have caused problems.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

I used to work at a Gm rebuild shop and tested starters, the problem with testing a starter is there is no load on it when testing, not like an alt when testing so would still aim at the starter as long as voltage is tested good as mentioned already.

Good point, a lot of them freewheel nicely including the one in my 71 GMC but drag when you actually put them to work.

[NEWFISHER]

My first guess: Pull all grounds , clean ends and clean mounting areas, reinstall with new hardware. 2nd: replace the starter.

If you have ever had a weak or dead battery and tried to start the truck and pull voltage through the starter, you have taken life from it. The battery, starter and the alternator all work together. Make sure you check the Alternator to verify its output.

[parkwood]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

My first guess: Pull all grounds , clean ends and clean mounting areas, reinstall with new hardware. 2nd: replace the starter.

If you have ever had a weak or dead battery and tried to start the truck and pull voltage through the starter, you have taken life from it. The battery, starter and the alternator all work together. Make sure you check the Alternator to verify its output.

I 2nd newfisher, check all your grounds and make sure you have one from the battery to the block, from the block to the frame, frame to the cab...

[NEWFISHER]

Well, what did you find??
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[Highsider]

Most of these ideas don't cost a cent to do and should be done before throwing $$$ at new parts.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Highsider

Most of these ideas don't cost a cent to do and should be done before throwing $$$ at new parts.

He speaks the truth on that one and it should be rule number one with troubleshooting electrical systems. Don't replace anything until you have thoroughly checked out everything.

I'm still betting that there is/was a bad connection in the system somewhere.