Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**derotoreut** · 05-09-2013, 11:49 PM

I just replaced my master cylinder and distribution block on my '70 K10. After replacing the distribution block, the brake warning light stays on.

The truck has the original drum/drum set up with power booster. Because this is a drum/drum set up, I have a distribution (metering) block and not a proportioning valve. The master was leaking and the distribution block did not have the electrical pin connector for the brake warning light, so I bought both new. I never had the brake warning light connected on this truck before.

I bought a new master cylinder from NAPA and a new distribution block from Inline Tube (PR112). I bench bled the master first. After that was good, I installed the short lines and distribution block and bench bled the entire assembly. After reassembling the system the brake warning stays on. Could I have done this by bench bleeding the entire assembly? Is there a way to reset the distribution block? It's not a prop valve so I'm not sure. As always... any help is greatly appreciated.

**jocko** · 05-10-2013, 12:29 AM

to reset the block, you need to stomp on the brake pedal a few times. You'll hear a "pop" or "click" when it happens and the light will go out. If it DOESN'T, then you likely still have a little air in the lines - sounds like you got the mc bled very well. I had to do this for quite a while on my 71 when I replaced all my brake lines, and it actually reset DURING the bleeding process. The neighbor pumping the brake pedal yelled "hey, I just heard a click and your light went out!" I could even hear the click from where I was at the right rear wheel. I was relieved... Good luck, hope that helps.

**leddzepp** · 05-10-2013, 12:46 AM

Yep stomp on the brake pedal hard, like a deer just jumped in front of your truck

**derotoreut** · 05-10-2013, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Yep stomp on the brake pedal hard, like a deer just jumped in front of your truck

I'll give this stomping method a try (ha ha) and let you know how it works out. I have a lot of experience stopping for deer where I live, so it should be pretty easy.

If it doesn't work then do you think that it will reset if I bleed the brakes?

dmw319 · 05-10-2013, 09:10 AM

Mine came on too after installing disc brakes and new prop valve. I just unplugged the sensor and the light went out. Who needs it anyways!

cdowns · 05-10-2013, 10:18 AM

did you bleed the brakes??

Mr Chevorlet · 05-10-2013, 11:03 AM

I have had my brakes done for awhile, like three months, good pedal plenty of fluid, no light. well i got in it to start the truck the other day and brake light was on, i had good pedal plenty of fluid. i had to unplug the wire and clean the connection on the plug on the wire, it went out. If it has been unplug and left hanging it could have crud or corrosion in it.If all other things that have been suggested will not work try this.

**FirstOwner69** · 05-10-2013, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jocko

to reset the block, you need to stomp on the brake pedal a few times. You'll hear a "pop" or "click" when it happens and the light will go out. If it DOESN'T, then you likely still have a little air in the lines - sounds like you got the mc bled very well. I had to do this for quite a while on my 71 when I replaced all my brake lines, and it actually reset DURING the bleeding process. The neighbor pumping the brake pedal yelled "hey, I just heard a click and your light went out!" I could even hear the click from where I was at the right rear wheel. I was relieved... Good luck, hope that helps.

I'm confused. I know a prop. valve can be reset this way, but we're talking about a drum/drum distribution block. I didn't think there was a reset on these. Is there?

**derotoreut** · 05-10-2013, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

did you bleed the brakes??

No I didn't bleed the brakes because I disconnected the lines at the distribution block. They were full to the top and left alone. I first bench bled the new master, and then the assembly (master, small lines & distribution block). I then reassembled the lines to the new distribution block with new master.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

I'm confused. I know a prop. valve can be reset this way, but we're talking about a drum/drum distribution block. I didn't think there was a reset on these. Is there?

This is my question as well. I am not sure. Hopefully someone will chime in on the difference and if the metering block can be reset.

SS Tim · 05-10-2013, 04:01 PM

The distribution block is still a combination valve with a switch controlled by a pressure differential between the brake circuits.

The service manual even has a proceedure for test by opening a rear bleeder and braking to see if the lamp illuminates. This is recommended every 24 months/24K miles or after brake service.

In any event I would in this case determine there is not a short providing a ground path first by disconnecting the wire at the switch.

**derotoreut** · 05-10-2013, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS Tim

The distribution block is still a combination valve with a switch controlled by a pressure differential between the brake circuits.

The service manual even has a proceedure for test by opening a rear bleeder and braking to see if the lamp illuminates. This is recommended every 24 months/24K miles or after brake service.

In any event I would in this case determine there is not a short providing a ground path first by disconnecting the wire at the switch.

There is no short to ground causing the light to come on. I know this because the wire has not been connected for some time and the brake light has been off. The old distribution block that came on the truck did not have the proper pin connection to hook up the wire. The wire was hidden in the wire tray at the cowl. So I decided to install a new block when I put in a new master.

**jocko** · 05-10-2013, 04:21 PM

I believe it is the same, but someone feel free to 'splain it differently if you're positive about it. The switch is a pressure differential sensor, even on the drum/drum setup - the light is triggered by the switch via a small shuttle valve (or something like that, let's just call it the "Johnson rod..." ) and when there is a different pressure sensed between the two circuits, the valve moves and triggers the switch. Technically speaking, a drum/drum setup with the same size lines front/back doesn't even need a distrib block. Earlier trucks didn't have em, and I never ran one on my 66 with drum/drum and a 67 dual res mc. But then again, I never would have known if one circuit failed and I was only operating on fronts or backs alone. Recall that dual res mc's were a safety mandate starting in 67, and they went one further by adding in the distrib block that would sense the pressure differential to alert the driver if there was a fault in a circuit (i.e. if one fails, there would be a pressure diff, and you'd know you were still "safe" on the single circuit, but just not "as safe". In 71, when disks became available, the "proportioning" feature of the block came in, but the ability to warn the driver about the loss of a circuit remained.

Personally, I would not "just unhook it" as that doesn't fix anything - you're just fooling yourself. If it's on - you either have a bad valve (so, the light is just an annoyance) or you have a difference in pressure (and therefore a problem). It is a nice feature because it informs the driver when you're really only operating on a single system, front or back.

SS Tim · 05-10-2013, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derotoreut

There is no short to ground causing the light to come on. I know this because the wire has not been connected for some time and the brake light has been off...

We are talking about old wires. Just relocating the wire back over to tne switch in what appears to be pulled down and around may have created a short. Because there is this posibility I would verify that first before doing a bunch of other work. I suspect that you may have had some air in the distribution block or simply pushed it "off center" during bench bleeding.

cdowns · 05-10-2013, 06:03 PM

all service manuals i have ever read say replace master cylinder bleed brakes // but what the heck does GM FORD or CHRYSLER know ???

**derotoreut** · 05-10-2013, 09:34 PM

OK I tried stomping on the brakes to see if the pin in the distribution block would reset, but no luck.

I can verify that I don't have a wiring problem. When unplugged the light goes off. When plugged in to the distribution block, the light goes on. Apparently the switch is going to ground in order to turn on the warning light. This leads me to believe that the switch piston inside has moved in order to activate the switch terminal thus going to ground and turning on the light. Now... How do I reset the pin? Will bleeding the brakes do this?

Big Block · 05-10-2013, 10:10 PM

10-4, Bleed all of them.

SS Tim · 05-10-2013, 11:21 PM

Agree my next step would to be bleed the brakes per the factory pattern. LF, RF, RR and LR. But then this should have been done during the inital brake service.

But you could always pull the switch itself and see if it is functioning properly too.

bollybib · 05-11-2013, 10:17 AM

I messed around with one of these not long ago and this is what I found out.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=539235

Big Block · 05-11-2013, 03:06 PM

Great link. Should be the hot ticket.

GASoline71 · 05-11-2013, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derotoreut

No I didn't bleed the brakes because I disconnected the lines at the distribution block. They were full to the top and left alone. I first bench bled the new master, and then the assembly (master, small lines & distribution block). I then reassembled the lines to the new distribution block with new master.

If you ever unhook a brake line anywhere in the system... always bleed that portion of the system. All it takes is one small air bubble to throw things off.

Gary

68c10airstream · 05-12-2013, 12:12 AM

First response ever on a forum. 35 years as a dealer mechanic with 2 years schooling, lots of factory training. Light comes on because of one side (front or rear) looses pressure. Spool or shuttle valve shifts over to block off the low pressure side to try and save brake fluid from leaking out. During the shifting over of spool the terminal goes to ground to alert driver of a problem. These blocks usually don't seal the fluid leak off completely, but help. To correct the brake light and have full equal brake fluid distribution, bleed the side (front or rear) that didn't leak so the spool will then move over to the new low pressure side. Have someone inside the truck, key on , push firmly while you bleed the good side. when light goes out you are set. If you bleed too much the spool could move through no light to relight and shift to the other side. Example: when customer truck would come in with a line rupture (lets say front) and the light was on, repair the front, quickly open a rear bleeder to recenter the light, gravity bleed the front, slowly and gently bleed the front until the front doesn't have air, then with a good pedal roadtest truck. I learned a long time ago to never repeatedly pump brake pedal before bleeding as fluid likes to foam up. Also a tech help suggestion is if the truck is jacked up in front the master cylinder is now pointed up hill and air likes to get caught in the front chamber in the master cylinder and give a poor pedal feel. I have fixed friends trucks by unbolting master, with lines hooked up, tilting master cylinder down in the front, lid off and watch bubbles vent up in the fluid. Good luck.

SS Tim · 05-12-2013, 12:50 AM

Welcome to the board! Post up some pictures of you truck and that airstream too.
Good to have another tech here to sort things out.

**derotoreut** · 05-12-2013, 07:45 AM

Welcome 68C10airstream.

For this being your first forum response it was very good. Thanks for the help. One issue though is that I don't know which way the shuttle valve moved because I don't have a broken line. I would have to guess. 50-50 chance right? I suppose I could just bleed the brakes and try to get it to shift. Maybe I should remove the distribution block and re-set it manually on the bench using my multimeter. What do you think?

**Ironangel** · 05-12-2013, 11:21 AM

Yeah, what they said! Welcome to the forum!

68c10airstream · 05-12-2013, 06:29 PM

i would try and bleed one end at a time with help watching the brake light. If my memory is correct if you look down the ports where the lines from the master hook into the block you may see a brass colored plunger lengthwise in the port. If this is the case bleed the opposite side to move it over. You really can't hurt it, so proceed.

05-09-2013, 11:49 PM	#1
derotoreut Roto Reuter thats the name... Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Darien, NY Posts: 1,853	Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block I just replaced my master cylinder and distribution block on my '70 K10. After replacing the distribution block, the brake warning light stays on. The truck has the original drum/drum set up with power booster. Because this is a drum/drum set up, I have a distribution (metering) block and not a proportioning valve. The master was leaking and the distribution block did not have the electrical pin connector for the brake warning light, so I bought both new. I never had the brake warning light connected on this truck before. I bought a new master cylinder from NAPA and a new distribution block from Inline Tube (PR112). I bench bled the master first. After that was good, I installed the short lines and distribution block and bench bled the entire assembly. After reassembling the system the brake warning stays on. Could I have done this by bench bleeding the entire assembly? Is there a way to reset the distribution block? It's not a prop valve so I'm not sure. As always... any help is greatly appreciated. Attached Images __________________ ~ Dan My 70 K10 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=782232 My 71 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651394 1970 SWB Fleet K10 4X4, 5.3L LM7, 4L60E, Dakota Digital RTX, Vintage Air, Ididit tilt 1971 SWB Fleet C10 - Original SWB Arizona truck, new custom restoration project "Kick out your motor and drive while you're still alive - kick it out!" - Heart 1977

05-10-2013, 12:29 AM	#2
jocko Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Godley, TX Posts: 17,985	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block to reset the block, you need to stomp on the brake pedal a few times. You'll hear a "pop" or "click" when it happens and the light will go out. If it DOESN'T, then you likely still have a little air in the lines - sounds like you got the mc bled very well. I had to do this for quite a while on my 71 when I replaced all my brake lines, and it actually reset DURING the bleeding process. The neighbor pumping the brake pedal yelled "hey, I just heard a click and your light went out!" I could even hear the click from where I was at the right rear wheel. I was relieved... Good luck, hope that helps.

05-10-2013, 12:46 AM	#3
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 20,075	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block Yep stomp on the brake pedal hard, like a deer just jumped in front of your truck __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul

05-10-2013, 09:10 AM	#5
dmw319 Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 639	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block Mine came on too after installing disc brakes and new prop valve. I just unplugged the sensor and the light went out. Who needs it anyways! __________________ 1970 Chevy C-10 Stepside My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528167

05-10-2013, 10:18 AM	#6
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block did you bleed the brakes?? __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

05-10-2013, 11:03 AM	#7
Mr Chevorlet Rusty Nuts Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Clever Missouri Posts: 1,338	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block I have had my brakes done for awhile, like three months, good pedal plenty of fluid, no light. well i got in it to start the truck the other day and brake light was on, i had good pedal plenty of fluid. i had to unplug the wire and clean the connection on the plug on the wire, it went out. If it has been unplug and left hanging it could have crud or corrosion in it.If all other things that have been suggested will not work try this. __________________ (Clever Missouri) Southwest Larry Mr Chevrolet My Build, The Marathon Truck http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=604414

05-10-2013, 04:01 PM	#10
SS Tim Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edwards, CA Posts: 7,507	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block The distribution block is still a combination valve with a switch controlled by a pressure differential between the brake circuits. The service manual even has a proceedure for test by opening a rear bleeder and braking to see if the lamp illuminates. This is recommended every 24 months/24K miles or after brake service. In any event I would in this case determine there is not a short providing a ground path first by disconnecting the wire at the switch. __________________ Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban

05-10-2013, 04:21 PM	#12
jocko Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Godley, TX Posts: 17,985	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block I believe it is the same, but someone feel free to 'splain it differently if you're positive about it. The switch is a pressure differential sensor, even on the drum/drum setup - the light is triggered by the switch via a small shuttle valve (or something like that, let's just call it the "Johnson rod..." ) and when there is a different pressure sensed between the two circuits, the valve moves and triggers the switch. Technically speaking, a drum/drum setup with the same size lines front/back doesn't even need a distrib block. Earlier trucks didn't have em, and I never ran one on my 66 with drum/drum and a 67 dual res mc. But then again, I never would have known if one circuit failed and I was only operating on fronts or backs alone. Recall that dual res mc's were a safety mandate starting in 67, and they went one further by adding in the distrib block that would sense the pressure differential to alert the driver if there was a fault in a circuit (i.e. if one fails, there would be a pressure diff, and you'd know you were still "safe" on the single circuit, but just not "as safe". In 71, when disks became available, the "proportioning" feature of the block came in, but the ability to warn the driver about the loss of a circuit remained. Personally, I would not "just unhook it" as that doesn't fix anything - you're just fooling yourself. If it's on - you either have a bad valve (so, the light is just an annoyance) or you have a difference in pressure (and therefore a problem). It is a nice feature because it informs the driver when you're really only operating on a single system, front or back. Last edited by jocko; 05-10-2013 at 04:50 PM.

05-10-2013, 06:03 PM	#14
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block all service manuals i have ever read say replace master cylinder bleed brakes // but what the heck does GM FORD or CHRYSLER know ??? __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

05-10-2013, 09:34 PM	#15
derotoreut Roto Reuter thats the name... Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Darien, NY Posts: 1,853	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block OK I tried stomping on the brakes to see if the pin in the distribution block would reset, but no luck. I can verify that I don't have a wiring problem. When unplugged the light goes off. When plugged in to the distribution block, the light goes on. Apparently the switch is going to ground in order to turn on the warning light. This leads me to believe that the switch piston inside has moved in order to activate the switch terminal thus going to ground and turning on the light. Now... How do I reset the pin? Will bleeding the brakes do this? Attached Images __________________ ~ Dan My 70 K10 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=782232 My 71 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651394 1970 SWB Fleet K10 4X4, 5.3L LM7, 4L60E, Dakota Digital RTX, Vintage Air, Ididit tilt 1971 SWB Fleet C10 - Original SWB Arizona truck, new custom restoration project "Kick out your motor and drive while you're still alive - kick it out!" - Heart 1977

05-10-2013, 10:10 PM	#16
Big Block Big Block Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Durham, N.C. Posts: 1,649	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block 10-4, Bleed all of them.

05-10-2013, 11:21 PM	#17
SS Tim Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edwards, CA Posts: 7,507	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block Agree my next step would to be bleed the brakes per the factory pattern. LF, RF, RR and LR. But then this should have been done during the inital brake service. But you could always pull the switch itself and see if it is functioning properly too. __________________ Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban

05-11-2013, 10:17 AM	#18
bollybib Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Carlsbad, CA Posts: 1,584	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block I messed around with one of these not long ago and this is what I found out. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=539235 __________________ - Jim - My Daily Driver is a 1969 Chevrolet Custom/20 Fleetside 350/TH400/Eaton H052 4.10 and its Project thread is here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=456911

05-11-2013, 03:06 PM	#19
Big Block Big Block Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Durham, N.C. Posts: 1,649	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block Great link. Should be the hot ticket.

05-12-2013, 12:12 AM	#21
68c10airstream Registered User Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Marquette michigan Posts: 828	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block First response ever on a forum. 35 years as a dealer mechanic with 2 years schooling, lots of factory training. Light comes on because of one side (front or rear) looses pressure. Spool or shuttle valve shifts over to block off the low pressure side to try and save brake fluid from leaking out. During the shifting over of spool the terminal goes to ground to alert driver of a problem. These blocks usually don't seal the fluid leak off completely, but help. To correct the brake light and have full equal brake fluid distribution, bleed the side (front or rear) that didn't leak so the spool will then move over to the new low pressure side. Have someone inside the truck, key on , push firmly while you bleed the good side. when light goes out you are set. If you bleed too much the spool could move through no light to relight and shift to the other side. Example: when customer truck would come in with a line rupture (lets say front) and the light was on, repair the front, quickly open a rear bleeder to recenter the light, gravity bleed the front, slowly and gently bleed the front until the front doesn't have air, then with a good pedal roadtest truck. I learned a long time ago to never repeatedly pump brake pedal before bleeding as fluid likes to foam up. Also a tech help suggestion is if the truck is jacked up in front the master cylinder is now pointed up hill and air likes to get caught in the front chamber in the master cylinder and give a poor pedal feel. I have fixed friends trucks by unbolting master, with lines hooked up, tilting master cylinder down in the front, lid off and watch bubbles vent up in the fluid. Good luck.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

05-12-2013, 12:50 AM	#22
SS Tim Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edwards, CA Posts: 7,507	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block Welcome to the board! Post up some pictures of you truck and that airstream too. Good to have another tech here to sort things out. __________________ Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban

05-12-2013, 07:45 AM	#23
derotoreut Roto Reuter thats the name... Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Darien, NY Posts: 1,853	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block Welcome 68C10airstream. For this being your first forum response it was very good. Thanks for the help. One issue though is that I don't know which way the shuttle valve moved because I don't have a broken line. I would have to guess. 50-50 chance right? I suppose I could just bleed the brakes and try to get it to shift. Maybe I should remove the distribution block and re-set it manually on the bench using my multimeter. What do you think? __________________ ~ Dan My 70 K10 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=782232 My 71 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651394 1970 SWB Fleet K10 4X4, 5.3L LM7, 4L60E, Dakota Digital RTX, Vintage Air, Ididit tilt 1971 SWB Fleet C10 - Original SWB Arizona truck, new custom restoration project "Kick out your motor and drive while you're still alive - kick it out!" - Heart 1977

05-12-2013, 11:21 AM	#24
Ironangel Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Falls City, Nebraska "100 Miles From Nowhere" Posts: 2,219	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block Yeah, what they said! Welcome to the forum! __________________ Michael of the clan Hill, "Two Seventy Two's" 71 1-ton Dually 350 4-Speed 71 C/50 Grain Truck, 350 Split-Axle 4-Speed 02 3/4 ton Express 14 Indian Chief Vintage 1952 Ford 8N, "Only Ford Allowed On The Property" "Be American, Buy American"

05-12-2013, 06:29 PM	#25
68c10airstream Registered User Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Marquette michigan Posts: 828	Re: Brake light is on with a new brake distribution/metering block i would try and bleed one end at a time with help watching the brake light. If my memory is correct if you look down the ports where the lines from the master hook into the block you may see a brass colored plunger lengthwise in the port. If this is the case bleed the opposite side to move it over. You really can't hurt it, so proceed.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.