4x4 frame repair *PICS*

[Campbel45]

Hows it going guys. I'm about to POR-15 my frame and when I took the bed off I found part of the rear frame deteriorated and would like to weld in some C-channels. Confident in welding but would like to see some pictures on how far back the frame is supposed to go from where mine is currently is, and what it looks like stock as I have a homemade rear bumper(not my doing) that is pretty think that I think is being used as part of the structure right now. It is a 1971 short bed k10. Also there are some holes around the shock mounts. Doesnt seem like it will be have that hard of a repair as long as I make templates and measure correctly but does anyone have any advice they'd like to give or any similar experiences?

















Also this little guy (needle scaler) is awesome for busting up scale, rust, and what have you. I highly recommend having one in your arsenal.

[Campbel45]

Can anyone tell me how the spring mounts are held in? Are those a type rivet or bolt?

[Bigdav160]

The spring and shackle mounts are riveted in.

Wow, that frame is thin. I'd look for another rear section to weld in.

[americanmusc1e]

WOW!! I live 40 miles from the coast in south Texas and the frames don't rust that bad!!

I'd look for another frame. I'm not even sure if that would be safe!

[snj8198]

I admire your drive to dive into this frame resto project, but honestly sir, that is a replacement canidate if i ever saw one. I think your time and effort to yield would be much greater if a guy shopped for a frame.

Good luck with your project and have fun! -steve

[Redcap]

I'm all for working with what you have, but....that frame is pretty bad.

[obijuan]

Build a new one with rectangular tubing. You got a template.
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[argonaut]

Originally Posted by obijuan

Build a new one with rectangular tubing. You got a template.
Posted via Mobile Device

Hey, that's what I was going to say! 2"x4"x3/16" wall box and reconstruct a frame. It'll be way stiffer!

[Campbel45]

Well The easiest way would be to find a better frame. I think I'll post up in the classifieds and see if anyone's got one. Its hard to find a decent 67-72 truck around here let alone a 4x4. If nothing comes up soon my only choice is to rebuild it. Now that everyone's chimed in on how bad it is I'm a little more skeptical of it. I was planning on rebuilding the back half and the places that are eaten up and then boxing/plating sections of the frame to make it stronger. The front part of the frame looks pretty good to me!

Thanks for all the comments and if anyone has or knows about a 4x4 frame let me know!

[americanmusc1e]

If you can't find anything I can get you some pictures of my k20 frame. Mine is stripped down to the frame right now. Just let me know what you need.
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[Campbel45]

Hey they'd be great! Could you get some pictures of the rear half? and I'd like to see how think the metal is really supposed to be. Any pictures at all will be helpful. Thanks!

[argonaut]

The frame should be 3/16" thick.
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[RANDY COX]

Looks like it's returning to the earth...

[Mr. 250r]

I think it'd be so much work trying to remake the frame with tubing unless your one of those people that just wants to run it straight instead of factory bends... lol then it won't be too hard but i like what GM does with their stuff but this here isn't looking too good you might want to check the rest of your frame but... if it was me and i didn't want to get another frame etc etc...

As a welder you should also be a fabricator so here's what a fellow fabricator/welder would do the long long way..

I would cut the frame right behind the cab and get 3 - 3/16-1/4in thick plates depending if you want to match a 1/2t and 3/4t frame thickness or upgrade to the 1 ton frames then go with 1/4in. The 3 plates would match the 3 parts of the frame top frame rail, middle and bottom. Clean the old frame up and clamp the new top piece to it and heat it up and bend it to contour the frame then the middle plate i would put over the old part of the middle frame and cut it out to match the bend of the frame, then repeat the bottom rail as you did the top rail. Put them together corner to corner obviously then square it, tack it. Slowly weld it all together. Maybe throw some gussets in there lol

But that's just how i would do it just because i like matching original stuff im not big on tube framing etc etc but just me nothing against all that or just do like everyone else says and buy a new frame or something

[Mr. 250r]

I think it'd be so much work trying to remake the frame with tubing unless your one of those people that just wants to run it straight instead of factory bends... lol then it won't be too hard but i like what GM does with their stuff but this here isn't looking too good you might want to check the rest of your frame but... if it was me and i didn't want to get another frame etc etc...

As a welder you should also be a fabricator so here's what a fellow fabricator/welder would do the long long way..

I would cut the frame right behind the cab and get 3 - 3/16-1/4in thick plates depending if you want to match a 1/2t and 3/4t frame thickness or upgrade to the 1 ton frames then go with 1/4in. The 3 plates would match the 3 parts of the frame top frame rail, middle and bottom. Clean the old frame up and clamp the new top piece to it and heat it up and bend it to contour the frame then the middle plate i would put over the old part of the middle frame and cut it out to match the bend of the frame, then repeat the bottom rail as you did the top rail. Put them together corner to corner obviously then square it, tack it. Slowly weld it all together. Maybe throw some gussets in there lol

But that's just how i would do it just because i like matching original stuff im not big on tube framing etc etc but just me nothing against all that or just do like everyone else says and buy a new frame or something

1/2-3/4t = 3/16in
1 ton = 1/4in and taller
I can get pics of both if needed

[Campbel45]

That is some good advice. I think I'll be looking for another frame. I did find a roller for $1500 the owner says its in fantastic shape.

[truckdude239]

for 1500 it better be already sand blasted and painted!

[Redcap]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

for 1500 it better be already sand blasted and painted!

For $1500, it better be a whole truck.

[argonaut]

Originally Posted by Redcap

For $1500, it better be a whole truck.

Agreed!
But I would say that you should be able to find a donor frame without too much hassle. I see them come up from time to time. Even if it is a long bed you can just cut it down or cut out the sections you need to replace on yours.
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[vectorit]

Shoot forum member "jeremiah king" a PM.
He is located in SoCal, and is a big time scrounger for 67-72 parts.
Especially big stuff like this.
I have seen him freight an entire 4x4 long bed chassis across country, so he is able to work with you and your shipping company that you arrange.
His prices are fair, and one heck of a nice guy to do business with.

[snj8198]

Originally Posted by Campbel45

That is some good advice. I think I'll be looking for another frame. I did find a roller for $1500 the owner says its in fantastic shape.

for $1,500 you can have mine! i'll start pulling it down tonight

[franken]

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/3847928984.html

Not mine.

[americanmusc1e]

mine isn't the best example because it has been modified for a flatbed.

[Campbel45]

Wow mine is in bad shape! The one I found for $1500 has been sandblasted and coated in epoxy. Also comes with axles, springs, and what not for a rolling frame. Sounds like its a great frame.

Also have found one for $950 in alot better shape than mine but not blasted and re coated.

Do you guys think those are decent deals? I have a por 15 kit waiting to be used..

[franken]

What are the parts you've found? K10, K20, or K30?
Which are you looking for?
Compare the rot on your frame to that of the pics from americanmusc1e, and that of the ones you've found.
Might be worth a weekend trip south...