Installing 1 piece windows on painted truck, help

[fabguy]

A few years ago I bought my door glass from Brothers truck shop (i know, i know big mistake) and am now ready to install it although the directions are very vague as to what supports the front of the glass. I went over to the truck shop on Friday and looked at their display and it looks better. I seen the videos posted here but do not want to cut or drill anything that will show as my truck is painted and almost complete enough to drive. Any suggestions?
I am sure I am not the only one who made this mistake
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[_Ogre]

no mistake in my eyes.

i have the brothers one piece windows in truk
it is not a perfect kit but after 3 yrs i think i finally have my working correctly
i've had my windows come out of the felt channel many times and have modified a few things to get them working right


the fixes are easy
first mod is when installing the felt channel. glue it in as recommended, i used clear silicone and lots of tape to hold it. there will be a 1/4 inch gap that shows when you put the interior trim piece on. i filled the gap with 1/2''x1/4'' black foam rubber. here is a lousy picture, you may be able to make out the foam in the next to the track.



second, modify the lower window stop. i drilled a 2''x2'' plate, welded a 1/4'' bolt in it and glued 2 layers of 2''x2''x 1/4'' rubber on it. the first layer had a hole for the bolt head, the second layer does not. if there is any movement in the glass, the glass will roll down past the stock stop and will pull up and fall out when you roll the window up.

third, use a quality urethane windshield glue to glue the glass into the lower track from the stock glass. that cheesy piece of rubber they send you will pull out after you roll the window down a couple of times.

forth and final mod. when the window is all the way down, there is little to hold the glass in the rear felt channel. driving with the window down or slamming the door to close it, is enough to knock it out of the felt channel. i studied this for a couple of years and came up with some elaborate methods to fix this and finally did something about it this spring.

i screwed a piece of wood to the inside of my door.

the wood is 1.5''x1.5''x5''. it is located at the back of the steel track that you cut off the stock window and glue on the new glass. vertically position it so that when the window is down it will contact the steel track for a couple of inches. i had to cope a couple of door ridges into the piece of wood to allow it to lay flat inside the door.

my method may not be pleasing to all but it works.

[Speedbumpauto]

I also used thier kit and I had no problems, but mine was the power kit so I didn't use anything from the old windows and the kit did have a new piece of metal track for the front.(there seems to be some confusion about that) I did like Ogre and glued the window channel to the metal and used 3M black and lots of masking tape. I think Ogre's idea of silicone adhesive is better and that's where I was going but the window guy talked me into the 3M. Mine moves up and down just fine but I haven't had it on the road yet. The funny window angle makes me believe you'll either want the window open or closed, nothing inbetween. I did use clear silicone on the felts as I didn't think the fasteners were that secure. The holes I had to drill were spot on with the measurments they furnished.

[fabguy]

Instructions? Window track in front? Maybe I got a kit that was missing stuff. Lol
Posted via Mobile Device

[_Ogre]

you should have instructions, brothers can probably email you a new set
there is no front metal track, in my kit, other than the felt channel you glue in where the vent window was.
there is some felt channel that hangs down in front but it is pretty worthless
i should have typed ''felt channel'' for the window guide, not sure what it's called

i have only fixed my drivers door with my wood block idea.
it works well enough that i will do the pass side this week
will take some pics if it helps clear the mud i have typed

speedbump; the funny window angle is due to trying to pull a trapezoid down straight against the rear track
i used a scissors type power window regulator from a dodge durango that i got for free
brothers said the scissors type power windows will not work on their kit
i proved them wrong.

[BurlyCrew]

http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9kj7d9ou8N5OXN-DckF7JQ

[Speedbumpauto]

I understood the reason, but it's still pretty ugly. I can't believe there was no window channel extention for the front in your kit. Mine fit well and was adjustable so I got a good tight fit in the down position, even though only part of the window is actually in the channel. I wonder if it's an improvement in the newer or power kits? Mine is about 3 years old. I work slow.

[OrrieG]

This thread might help you. It talks about modifying the brothers kit to actually work. Denee also modified the brothers kit on her all ready painted truck, look in the build section.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366078

[oldcouple]

I made my own, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1345082953

[fabguy]

i ended up partially going the route in the videos posted by Diesel although applied it to the brother stuff. I found that if I cut the vent window track down and move it forward 7" it worked out great. I got the drivers side installed and now just need to work on the passenger although I have to weld the rear track into it as the body guy though it was extra and cut it out. Gonna be a DOOSIE to try to weld inside the door without burning the paint in anyway

[fabguy]

BTW, thank you very much everyone for the replies and all the info that you provided. It helped tremendously.